FIRST OF ALL, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.


OK, so since my GF's van has been getting all the love I've been "diy"ing to do some wrenching on the Porsche. I've recently hit 60K miles and I'm doing all the maintenance myself. Since everyone knows, as there is plenty of writeups on the Air Filter and the Belt, I figured I'll throw one in for the mighty FUEL FILTER since it looked tricky and it is!!

So, I attached the factory instructions, which are pretty straight forward, but there is some tricky parts that I figured I might take pictures of to show you guys what you're up against.


Here's the tools you will need.

13mm socket (Removing the air filter housing)
Screwdriver removing the air filter clamp and fuel filter clamp.
T20 security bit for removing the MAF (Optional)
2 X 19mm or 1x 19mm and 3/4 will do
Powerful Cigar Lighter if you bought the filter without the pigtail.

Now this is essential. I don't care what you do on a Porsche, even if you change a lightbulb these might come in handy and are highly required, my trusty magnet pickup tool and a handy mirror:






0. Turn the car off.

1. You have to remove the air filter. I've discovered that removing the MAF first makes it easier to get the AIR FILTER housing out.

2. Once the Air Filter is out disconnect the line feeding the Fuel Filter (Right above the Fuel Filter)press and pull this one is easy.

3. Disconnect the grounding wire.

4. Now this one requires some force and is tricky and you HAVE TO BE CARFUL WITH IT!!! The filter is mounted to the Coolant Reservoir and I don't want you guys cracking it as a little birdie told me that it's not that easy to replace. Disconnect the fitting on the filter 19mm while countering with another 19mm or a 3/4 for these who might be tight on wrenches.

4 1/2. If you're wearing a baseball cap, you might want to twist it back as it will start to get in a way right about now.

5. Now the manual tells you how to take the filter out while pulling the TAB forward, which is hard to picture so I took some pics of the whole setup for you guys to make it easier.

Here's the band that holds the filter to the black clip that clips into the coolant tank.



Here's to show you how it clips.




And here's where the "Assembly" clips into.





6. Now if you got that far, than I assume you're doing good.

Now, when I got to this part, I realized that the filter I got was "affordable" but didn't come with the pigtail. Swaping it is tricky as the high pressure fuel line is heat shrunk onto the filter. Lucky for me the stock filter didn't have much of a "lip" in the nipple that attaches to the line as pictured below: WARNING, at no time, do not put any heat or flame close to the old FUEL FILTER as it might explode and cause injury.




So, I gently pulled it off while working it side to side (not to crack it) and swapped it over to my new filter, which had a bigger lip. Than I gently heated it after rinsing it in water and blowind it out,(where the connection is) with a lighter and after checking it is snug I put a clamp on it just in case. When heating it make sure you distribute the heat evenly and dont burn the rubber hose covering the plastic line.



Now, my buddy just pointed out that the clamp I used is not approved for European cars so If you use one like that make sure that your warranty is expired



7. Now you need to swap the band and the clip making sure you clock it right with the pigtail being straight up and the clip being at 7:30.

8. Here it is sliding into place.




To my surprise the "Sie" Germans engineered it that while it is a tight fit sliding it in, it went right in on the first try, I couldn't believe it.

This is where I took out my handy mirror and I made sure I got the clip to engage into the slot.


9. Here it is clipped in with the lines attached, fittings tightened and the ground wire attached.



If you look closely enough, you can see my handy mirror checking for leaks behind the filter where the pigtail was attached. Make ABSOLUTELY sure there are no leaks, as the fuel filter is located direclty above the turbos and the manifolds, and you dont want your Turbo to turn into a Fiero. The car will run without the MAF but you'll need to clear the codes in the computer afterwards by disconnecting the battery.

10. If there is no leaks, that's it. End of the show. You're done. Assemble the air filter, and go for a spin.

 

Great write up, much appreciated!

 

Great write up! Thanks for taking the time to do this for everyone else. Rep points for you!

I might add, maybe a blow dryer is a better source of heat rather than a lighter for the heat shrink

 

Hair dryer will not be sufficient as the actual plastic shrink tube is inside the rubber tube. I personally carefully used a torch, but figured that for begginers a lighter might be a safer, more controlable approach.

 

Adam, You're a brother from another mother, man! Well done!!!

Mike

 

Great writeup Adam. May I add another tip? Depressurizing the fuel lines is worthwhile to lessen the fuel mess. Easiest way to do this is to start the car and remove fuse C4 which cuts power to the fuel pump. Let the car stall, remove the key from the ignition and don't forget to replace the fuse.

 

Another thumbs up.
One of the hardest jobs I've done on the car.

The mirror is a great idea !

 

Well done Adam thanks!

Suggestion: You should also transfer that to renntech.org in the 996TT diy section....

 

anyway we can get the pictures back up?

 

One after true other in order top to bottom….

 

One after true other in order top to bottom….#2

 

Nice write up! Thanks for the photos JP - what's the part number on the filter? You likely have it at your fingertips,,,

 

Yes sir!!! part#99611025352

 

Great write up Adam and thanks for the photos JP. For anyone wanting to tackle the job we offer either the Genuine or Mahle branded filter, for more information Click Here.

 

I knew you would !