996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

New bad ass clutch.... whats gonna break?

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Old Aug 16, 2009 | 05:10 PM
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New bad *** clutch.... whats gonna break?

A couple days ago i installed a Spec stage 3+ unsprung clutch. (did it in 6 hours )
Its finally breaking in pretty good.
It grabs fantastic. When i bang gears.. it really grabs. Almost like the SMG in a E46 M3. Feels like someone punches you from the back. The tires chirp pretty good in the upshifts from 1-2 and even 2-3. So..... what (if anything) is the weak point on the car that will not benefit from the ultra grabby shifts?

car is AWD with K24/18g's.

thanks.
 
Old Aug 16, 2009 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by phillym5
A couple days ago i installed a Spec stage 3+ unsprung clutch. (did it in 6 hours )
Its finally breaking in pretty good.
It grabs fantastic. When i bang gears.. it really grabs. Almost like the SMG in a E46 M3. Feels like someone punches you from the back. The tires chirp pretty good in the upshifts from 1-2 and even 2-3. So..... what (if anything) is the weak point on the car that will not benefit from the ultra grabby shifts?

car is AWD with K24/18g's.

thanks.
I vote rear axles...
 
Old Aug 16, 2009 | 05:41 PM
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IMO, you will wear your rear CV joints more rapidly (part of the axles) and the rubber coupler on the drive shaft going to the front diff. may crack.

Your transmission mount may crack a little sooner, as well.

These are the areas I have seen wear on my car, which I believe has been partially due to 1/4 mile days and the hard banging launches / shifts associated with it.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2009 | 05:47 PM
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Cool...
Thanks for the spot checks.
I will check on these pieces fairly frequent.
 
Old Aug 16, 2009 | 06:41 PM
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Would 6 hours be considered normal time for a clutch install?
 
Old Aug 16, 2009 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by PAULIEWALNUTS
Would 6 hours be considered normal time for a clutch install?
I was told the dealer can charge 17-23 hours. They want you to pull out the motor.
There was a couple tricky parts that are "blind" like the clutch fork pin bolt and bracket... but really with the right tools it was pretty easy. The hard bolts are the top of the starter (we used a 4 foot ratchet with a swivel, small extension, and deep socket. Worked great.) The 13 that is on top of the trans holding the slave was supposed to be hard... but was fairly easy. The hardest part was getting the Clutch pin through the fork. But that only took ten minutes.

There is a bracket above the trans that keeps the motor from crushing you in an accident that was preventing the trans from going back into place. But we took it off... put the trans in.. then put the bracket back on once the trans was back up. Pretty simple.

Im sure the next time.. we could do it in 4 hours. No loss of coolant either. We did use a jack to secure the motor and a trans jack to lower and raise the trans in and out of the car.
 
Old Aug 16, 2009 | 07:20 PM
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Thanks for the info.
 
Old Aug 16, 2009 | 11:55 PM
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Feedback on the clutch? How does it feel compared to the stocker? Are you running a LWFW?
 
Old Aug 17, 2009 | 11:03 AM
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I had a spec 3+ but exchanged it for the one below it that is unsprung, half kevlar and half organic. Shifts good but it a little rough off the line since its unsprung but I suppose thats normal.
 
Old Aug 17, 2009 | 11:30 AM
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Not normal with an OEM dual mass flywheel. Unsprung is very smooth with the DMF, but abrupt with a LWF.
 
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