OK. first off, I have custom 1 bar Actuators. I need to do some further adjustments. I DO NOT want to do the adjustments by applying pressure at the actuators themselves as I have clamps holding the pipes to the actuators and they were a real pain to install.

Of course the actuators have the traditional screw type adjustments on the rods.

I could adjust them by simply applying a few turns to the bolts on the arms but I want to be more accurate than that. Currently they are cracking at 11psi and I want to adjust them to 12 - 13psi cracking. I want to do them both together together by applying equal pressure to them, but from a different source.

Currently they are perfectly in sync from when I installed them as I synced them up at 11psi. The feed to the actuators is from the supply valve as shown in the picture below. I need to intercept the supply pipe to install my pressure tester/supply there as opposed to putting a tee on my test rig and applying the pressure directly to the actuators.

The only way I can see doing this is to remove the intake filter and Y pipe to gain access.

Is there a better way to get at that pipe as shown in the attached pic?

Again, I DO NOT want to apply pressure at the actuators themselves.

Thanks in advance.

 

There is only ONE way to adjust them. That IS by turning the nuts on the rod. (I am assuming your custom wastegates are similar to stock, if not this is a pointless post...)

The KEY is how to measure the 'cracking' pressure. It is the accuracy of the measurement- not the 'accuracy' of the adjustment'- that matters.

Simply remove the pressure lines from both wastegates
Attach a pressure source to a T. Run the ends of the T to each WG.

Remember, the pressures you are working at (8-12psi) the pressures are basically static (there is no flow) so the pressures throughout your test rig will equalize- no concerns over 'it's 11 at this end but 12 on the other'... pressure will be the same all over.

I made a set up that allows me to 'sweep' the pressure up from 0 to say 15- as I increase the pressure I put fingers on the wastegates- feeling which one 'cracks' loose. I adjust the nut so they crack at the right pressure, AND that they crack together.

A


EDIT: So how DID you set them at 11psi???? What tells you they are 'perfectly synced' now, and what reading gives you 11 psi?

 

I understand the defacto adjustment procedure, that was not my question. My question is how can I apply pressure to the actuators without putting a tee and removing the stock pipes to them under the car?

I used the conventional method you explained to set them up initially. Since then I have applied pipe clamps that would be very hard to remove an re-install. Not impossible just hard and not my first choice, as a result I am looking for an alternative point to apply pressure to both units at the same time. I have a very accurate instrument grade pressure pump for applying pressure (or Vacuum) to +/- 30 psi so I can get the source pressure very close to spot on. Yes they have adjustments at each actuator like a conventional setup.

It appears that the only entry point is the regulator valve as indicated on the drawing I provided. I was wondering if there was an easy way to get at the feed beneath said valve without removing the filter box and y pipe. There are 3 pipes and an electrical source going to it, one front one rear and one below, it is the below pipe I need to intercept.

 

I misunderstood. You asked what is the most accurate way.

What you wanted to know was 'is there a simpler place to tap into the wastegate pressure line'.

 

Those must be some kind of clamps!

 

Updated post text to clarify.

 

Dave, Thanks for this. Do you mean this one toward the front of the car(See the attached pic)? I tried the rear one but it was a no go as it appears closed.

Thanks for the advice I will try it. This is exactly the info I needed before diving in. Unfortunately on my car the clamp to the Y Pipe is fixed. I will most likely need to break it off and replace it with a removable one.

Thanks again

 

Welcome Daveyboy!!!

 

Thanks to Dave over at EPL I managed to do the adjustment somewhat easily.

1) Disconnect the pipe from the Pressure Control Valve closest to the FRONT of the car.

2) Connect my Test Pipe and Gauge to Valve

3) Do adjustment as normal on BOTH Actuators

4) Re-connect

It is very tricky but it works.

Here are a couple of pics.