Noob Asks What is IN a PPI
Noob Asks What is IN a PPI
All -- sorry for noob query. I'm looking to buy a modded 2001 996tt and have run the Car Fax. Asked owner to get a PPI run, but really don't know exactly what is really IN a "proper" PPI. Can anyone help me out w description of what is involved. Thanks, Jay
And . . .What Should PPI Cost?
Forgot to ask . . .
- What is typical PPI cost? by Porsche dealer vs good indy?
- Are there differences in what can be run? (My seller is getting the PPI run by his local Dealer, so also wonder if they don't have an "axe to grind" vs indy.)
Porsche has a checklist of what is done for a PPI. They normally just spend 3-4 hours to go over the car as well as take for a drive to see what comes up.
They should check for type 1/2 overrevs to see how often/long the car was taken to the limits.
Every shop may differ in what they do...note, compression/leakdown is usually not included as they are more expensive to do.
Typical Porsche cost seems to be in around the $250-300 mark. I would also trust a well-known porsche shop around you if people can recommend one.
GL!
They should check for type 1/2 overrevs to see how often/long the car was taken to the limits.
Every shop may differ in what they do...note, compression/leakdown is usually not included as they are more expensive to do.
Typical Porsche cost seems to be in around the $250-300 mark. I would also trust a well-known porsche shop around you if people can recommend one.
GL!
You should be paying for and arranging the PPI, not the seller. I would never trust a sellers PPI unless I knew the person.
When I bought my 996tt I put a clause in the purchase contract stating that i would get a PPI at a shop of my choosing, and the contract could be voided for any reason based on the results of the PPI.
Every shop will have a different idea of what a PPI is, you need to clarify EXACTLY what is being inspected.
I had a list that I compiled off of this site, of common problems, that I faxed to the shop, and also had compression and leakdown testing done. I paid about $700 for a two day very through inspection.
Tom
When I bought my 996tt I put a clause in the purchase contract stating that i would get a PPI at a shop of my choosing, and the contract could be voided for any reason based on the results of the PPI.
Every shop will have a different idea of what a PPI is, you need to clarify EXACTLY what is being inspected.
I had a list that I compiled off of this site, of common problems, that I faxed to the shop, and also had compression and leakdown testing done. I paid about $700 for a two day very through inspection.
Tom
Thanks for Helpful Comments . . .
As a noob, I'm most thankful for the quick and very good replies. Shouldn't have been surprised, but got two in a few minutes.
In this case, I am paying for the PPI (about $375) and it IS a condition of the sale. Had to rely upon the seller setting up the PPI near him since I am on an overseas trip and the car is stateside. I should be getting the results directly from the Dealer, but didn't specify what was to be done. At the price spec'd for the PPI, I'm sure there will not be a leakdown but I expect it should detect major problems.
The seller is both a 6speed forum member (several thousand posts and several years participation), and the car price is quite attractive. So I'm counting on the sellers presumed basic honesty and the PPI to determine the car is largely as advertised. Of course, I'd rather than walk into some large expenditures.
Here's hoping for either good results and a new-to-me car by Christmas . . . or. . . knowing that it has problems and walking away.
Wish me luck and I'll be a more active forum participant soon.
Thanks again, Jay
In this case, I am paying for the PPI (about $375) and it IS a condition of the sale. Had to rely upon the seller setting up the PPI near him since I am on an overseas trip and the car is stateside. I should be getting the results directly from the Dealer, but didn't specify what was to be done. At the price spec'd for the PPI, I'm sure there will not be a leakdown but I expect it should detect major problems.
The seller is both a 6speed forum member (several thousand posts and several years participation), and the car price is quite attractive. So I'm counting on the sellers presumed basic honesty and the PPI to determine the car is largely as advertised. Of course, I'd rather than walk into some large expenditures.
Here's hoping for either good results and a new-to-me car by Christmas . . . or. . . knowing that it has problems and walking away.
Wish me luck and I'll be a more active forum participant soon.
Thanks again, Jay
If the seller is a long time and active participant in this forum...you should be in a pretty good position to get a decent PPI....if nothing else, you've just put subtle (?)peer pressure into the equation.
AND you can read all of the current owners posts to get a feel for the car.
I bought my car off of 6speed, and I read all 700+ posts by the PO.
gl
Tom
I bought my car off of 6speed, and I read all 700+ posts by the PO.
gl
Tom
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YEP. I don't think the owner is trying to bend me over. Did read a number of his previous posts, and think he will want to stay on the forum so he's likely to keep things straight up. . . . but I do need to exercise some reasonable caution, especially since this could my first Porsche and I am not able to go see the car in person until delivery / pickup.
Thanks again for the "gl". Cheers, Jay
Thanks again for the "gl". Cheers, Jay
a ppi is well worth getting but its not a guarantee that nothing will go wrong with it in the future. A porsche dealers PPI usually entails a 180 point check which is basically the same check they do when CPO'ing a car
if you want peace of mind then maybe you should get an aftermarket warranty (do your research, some are good some are bad, some cover few things, some cover many)
if you are buying from a long term member then its probably fair to assume that you are buying from an educated owner who has taken good care of their car
if you want peace of mind then maybe you should get an aftermarket warranty (do your research, some are good some are bad, some cover few things, some cover many)
if you are buying from a long term member then its probably fair to assume that you are buying from an educated owner who has taken good care of their car
buzzm --
Yep, I realize that the PPI won't / can't find everything everytime, but I hope it act as a well informed 3rd party and find stuff that I can't (since I'm working overseas right now).
Also considered warranties, but doubt they would prove worthwhile in a 996tt with engine mods (chip, different turbos, wastegate, intake etc etc). In this case, I'll "self-insure", get the PPI and "hope for the best."
Thanks again for the wise counsel, Jay
Yep, I realize that the PPI won't / can't find everything everytime, but I hope it act as a well informed 3rd party and find stuff that I can't (since I'm working overseas right now).
Also considered warranties, but doubt they would prove worthwhile in a 996tt with engine mods (chip, different turbos, wastegate, intake etc etc). In this case, I'll "self-insure", get the PPI and "hope for the best."
Thanks again for the wise counsel, Jay
i have 2 friends with modded 996 turbos (1 with chip, exhaust, clutch, lfw and some other stuff, the other is only lightly modded) and both have aftermarket warranties which have covered multiple things that have gone wrong in the past year or so, the amount of the repairs far exceeded what they paid for the warranty, i think they paid arround 2500 for the warranty
i think its a crap shoot though, sometimes its worth it, sometimes it isnt
i decided against a warranty and dont regret it
i think its a crap shoot though, sometimes its worth it, sometimes it isnt
i decided against a warranty and dont regret it
there is no "standard" list for what a PPI is - you can take the car to 10 different shops for a PPI and get 10 different lists of things that were checked out... That being said, I would say definitely check for paintwork/frame damage, a compression test is nice, 2nd gear popout on these cars, clutch wear, and electrical + A/C items.
When we perform a PPI, it includes a compression test (leakdown if we should find a low number on one or more cyls and/or greater than 10% differential between highest and lowest cyls), all-control units scan and over-rev check, notation of faults if any. Paint meter of all metalic body panels and visual inspection for paint work, overspray, abnormal orange peel etc. Visual inspection for oil leakages, coolant leakages (if applicable), coolant pressure test, ck condition of brake fluid, inspect suspension for wear, play, ck tire condition and notate, ck brake pad wear and notate. ck lighting, steering gear, actuate all components for operation, road test. Inspect service history.
there is no "standard" list for what a PPI is - you can take the car to 10 different shops for a PPI and get 10 different lists of things that were checked out... That being said, I would say definitely check for paintwork/frame damage, a compression test is nice, 2nd gear popout on these cars, clutch wear, and electrical + A/C items.
THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A "PORSCHE PPI". Even Porsche dealers have different definitions. Really. Do not take this lightly.
I recommend running the Porsche CPO Checklist- this is a common definition that they cannot say they don't know how to interpret. Add a dump of the DME for overrevs and codes to this. (A dme dump is not usually part of the cpo.) As mentioned above, compression/leakdown if miles are high, history sketchy or you want to be super thorough. I usually say do it in steps: if all the first stuff pans out, add the compression at that point.
GL




