Ok, here's the scenario: want to build a very fast 996tt NOT for track use, but not for daily driving or street racing. Now, the intent is for a sanctioned racing event, but on closed public roads - with all the inherent compromises, like curbs and potholes and camber. Oh, and quite possibly heavy rain. And the car needs to be dead solid bullet-proof, so not looking to push the envelope on, say horsepower.

1. What's the best way to get a reliable, reasonable ~500hp? Again, 550hp or 600hp is useless if the car will break.

2. Will have a full cage, racing seats and harnesses. Some interior bits will be stripped, and weight extracted where possible, and no stereo (though we'll keep the a/c). What about the exterior? Would like additional downforce, but will rip off any front splitters, etc.

3. Better fluid and pads, more ducting... do we really need bigger rotors/calipers? NOT at a track, so it's not 10/10ths, but we will be going pretty quickly.

4. SUSPENSION. This is the key, I think. Need to cover everything from fast sweepers to surprise Dukes of Hazzard scenarios. And needs to be RELIABLE; willing to sacrifice ultimate cornering for no failures. So what needs to be changed from stock?

5. Will plan on keeping 18" wheels, and want as big a sidewall profile as possible, to avoid destroying rims in case of aforementioned Dukes scenarios. Stick with stock wheels? Rubber recommendations? Remember, need to be ready for cool, wet conditions too.

Any and all suggestions welcomed!

vty,

--Dennis

 

Oh, and I forgot: any weaknesses that should be reinforced/addressed, specifically to handle the scenario above? Stock clutch/transmission should do ok?

Thanks,

--Dennis

 

What you just described is what many of the people here have, you won't find a car more reliable under those circumstances.

Factory K24 Turbos with a flash and exhaust will get you your 550-600 hp without skipping a beat.

You need a clutch at that point though, you also need to replace the diverter valves, they are cheap and can be installed yourself with a few tools and a few hours of time.

See the weight thread in this section, everyhing you need has been mentioned there, you should be able to estimate your end weight from that.

No you don't NEED bigger rotors, the fluid and cooling will do. The bigger brakes soak up less heat and are more fad resistant and the rotors take longer to crack/wear.

Stock wheels are strong as heck, keep them for sure!!!

Suspension is the key for what you're doing, get a GOOD set of coilovers. Some of the cheaper brands are good on smooth roads but will suck for what you are doing, start with a Moton Clubsport, JRZ RS or the like. JIC should not be considered.

 

Planning a "Getaway in Stockholm 19*"?

 

Dennis let me get this right ,you want to build a reliable 500 hp street car ? are you new to p cars? just curious, with k 24s and exauhst and a flash you are there, and about been reliable ? they are bulletproof at 500 and 600 and so on.... but between you and me i would call 500 hp vehicle the ultimate street car.

suspension , JRZ , motons, hands down. some adjustable roll bars, will do the trick.

brakes if you are going to be romping on the car , will deffinatley have to be uprgaded, depends how much money you want to dump on them, their are alot of options out there i went with the big brembos , cuase thestockers after a few high speeed runs didnt hold to well.you can use the good brake fluid and for ducting i believe they make some duct that direct air right on to the brake discs that reallly well.

18 in wheels , are good, alot of members opt to keep the 18 s the drives better they say , i my self have 19s.

 

Great advice everyone, thanks. Keep it coming!

I've been a long time p-car guy (orig 930, RSA, currently have a NA 996), but also a long-time F-car guy (including a 355 Challenge), and instruct for different clubs.

I'm sure 500hp is "bulletproof" for regular DD/street use; am soliciting opinions on how bulletproof they are when being flogged to redline for 40 hours.

I'm fairly confident that the stock brakes will take the abuse, as it's NOT a true track event. Am most curious on suspension mods, since engine mods seem pretty straightforward.

Thanks,

--Dennis

 

flogged for 40 hrs straight ? i thought you said you want the ultimate street car , not track car ??

regardless with the the k 24s flash and exhuast im confident it will take what you can dish out and smile at you.

like i said , if you want to do your suspension ,theres plenty of options just depends on what you want to spend , start with motons, fully adjustable sway bars, and the list goes on , control arms, rear toe, different bushings, motor mounts,

 

I read the same thing, he described a track 996TT

 

I think it's going to be a rally car.

 

Relocated Paris-Dakar?

 

This isn't only street use, guys are tracking these same setups, even racing them. If you aren't driving hard enough to overwhelm the stock brakes, even with fluid and pad changes, you aren't driving hard enough to phase the engine. However if it's going to be hot, a good set of Intercoolers should be in order for long runs at high revs.

A better idea of the type of event it is would be helpful in guiding a suspension direction. But if it's not true track speeds, a complete overhaul will not likely be needed.

 

ditto

 

Sorry for the semi-secrecy; not really needed, but no need to show our hand just yet. [ok, truthfully, it's kinda fun!] I wrote originally at the top of this thred, "Ok, here's the scenario: want to build a very fast 996tt NOT for track use, but not for daily driving or street racing. Now, the intent is for a sanctioned racing event, but on closed public roads - with all the inherent compromises, like curbs and potholes and camber. Oh, and quite possibly heavy rain. And the car needs to be dead solid bullet-proof, so not looking to push the envelope on, say horsepower."

So, yes, Landjet's guess was correct - quasi rally car, but on closed public roads - no gravel, dirt, snow (lordy, I hope not). The engine will be used *heavily* for a week of non-stop driving; a couple of thousand miles of constantly pushing towards redline. I'm not that worried about, say, a 500 hp 996tt motor; am focusing really on getting the suspension set up properly to handle high speed sweepers, potholes AND dips/rises.

Keep the advice coming, guys!

vty,

--Dennis

 

well im not suspension guru , there is a great thread on here on suspension i think by mike kelly or heavy , anyway this is more suitable for heavy to awnser or some other suspension guys.

 

Depends on the rally you are participating..... I have been to a few of the.... a lot of HP = not good... from what i have seen/experienced....it would be nice if you could get a flash loader and go so you can vary the hp depending on the rally event. Bcuz some are very twisty, and never really get to use full power, so if you have less power you can keep it planted through more turns and less brakes to slow down...UMW tune would be nice with a flash loader.