my hydraulic wing system is gone, no hope of repair. Does anyone have a fixed wing strut that will replace the hydraulic rams? NOTE - the post that says you can hook up a 12 volt battery to the hydraulic pump motor is bogus and should be removed permanently. The maximum and minumum sensors to shut off the pump is located in the passengers side ram and hooking the pump motor to a 12 volt source will destroy the plunger that moves the ram up and down - thanks to the person that posted this.....

 

I am sorry. I think I am the one who guided you to this subject. Are you talking about this one : Can you be more specific about what is damaged?

 

jpflip i reped u for you honesty !!! i sometimes tell untruths about my past because i'm old and forget what the hell i said or did (and thats the truth i think)

 

yes, that is the post

 

there is a plastic guide that the individual rams for the fluid cylindar plungers ride on. This guide is held on by the two screws closest to the hyrdraulic lines. Without the max sensor to tell the motor to stop, the motor keeps going and splits this plastic guide.

 

Woah. Slow down there buddy. I used the 12VDC method and got excellent results refilling both of my cylinders. Not everything on this site will work for every person/situation. I am sorry this happened to you, but it might work for some people. Thanks jpflip for that advice. It saved me from buying a new spoiler system. It appeared that just one of my banjos was a little loose allowing fluid to leak out ever so slightly. Refilled as per the post. Good as new.

 

I see what you mean. Thanks a lot for this valuable information. Two weeks ago there was a complete hydraulic system on ebay for sale and it went for less than $300.00. Keep an eye open....

 

i will - are you aware of any permanent studs?

 

I agree, a permanent solution in the up position would be ideal.

when mine finally peters out, I'll see if I can make a contraption to "keep it up"!

 

Yeah, I bought that one!
I had a mechanical failure of the pump piston jack.
UPS should have it to me Monday.

Sorry for your troubles. Seems like system to make the wing extended should be possible... I just haven't dived into that. Someone must have and I hope they chime in.

 

Below is a DIY on how to fabricate fixed wing posts for your rear wing. When completed, you will be able to decide the height of your rear wing and remove the assembly without the rear wing being in the extended position. Total cost = $39.00

Parts Needed
1/2 inch stainless steel threaded bar (13mm)
8 stainless steel lock washers
8 stainless steel round washers
8 stainless steel nute (17mm)
4 stainless steel nylon nuts (17mm)

Step One - Remove Rear Wing

Step Two - Remove Wing Hydraulic System
(HINT #1 - NO NOT REMOVE THE CENTER BRAKE LIGHT, YOU WILL NEVER GET THE GASKET TO SEAT CORRECTLY WHEN YOU TRY TO GET IT BACK IN, YOU ARE BETTER OFF CUTTING YOUR FINGERS TO SHREADS TO UNPLUG IT THEN REMOVING THE WHOLE THING)

Step Three - Disassemble each of the wing post hydraulic rams. NOTE: There is a HUGE spring in each of the assemblies, IT IS UNDER A GREAT AMOUNT OT PRESSURE. YOU SHOULD ONLY ATTEMPT DISASSEMBLY OF THIS IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. FAILURE TO USE PROPER PRECAUTIONS CAN RESULT IN SEVERE DAMAGE TO YOU AND ITEMS IN A 20 FOOT RADIUS OF THE CONTENTS OF THE RAMS.

Below is a picture of the disassembled ram assembly:




Step Four – Remove the black steel rod from inside the brass plunger and cut the brass plunger to 2 inches. Remove the spring and plastic insert from brass plunger after cutting.

Step Five – Cut the Stainless Steel Threaded Bar into 4 ½ to 5” segments

Step Six – Place Nylon Lock Nut, Lock Washer and Flat Washer on top of one of the ends of the threaded bar and insert into the wide opening in the chromed part of the ram assembly. Next, after the shaft of the threaded bar is through the bottom opening, place flat washer, lock washer and double nuts on to the bottom of the chrome tube and tighten.

Step Seven – Determine the height you wish your wing level to be and on the exposed end of the threaded bar, thread and tighten two stainless steel nuts, lock washer and flat washer. Next, insert chrome tube, and threaded rod into the black base. Using exposed threaded rod, add flat washer, lock washer and nylon lock nut and tighten.

Step Eight – Insert wing lock mechanism, retainer cup, 2” brass plunger, spring into chrome cylinder, compress and attach snap ring to top of chrome canister.

Step Nine – Reassemble Wing.

During the assembly process, I used the exact process in reverse that I used to remove the wing. I did not have a spanner wrench. I used a rubber strap wrench and a small allen wrench to complete the dowel insert and turned the chrome insert to attach the wing. I did have to loosen the end nuts to do this. But Realized (after I assembled the wing) that I could have just installed the black bases and then threaded the rod end into it – BUT would have to make sure that the washer and lock washer lined up correctly to do this right.

Anyway, should you need it, my loss is your gain. - Ryan

 

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I am working on the spoiler hydraulics as well, you do realize you need to remove the power from the motor when it stop spinning or extends/retracts the plunger fully? If the resistance goes up to 10 amps, that is when the plungers are fully retracted/extended (as per service manual). What I did was use a 10 amp battery charger to move the motor. You can easily see on the gauge when it hits full as it pegs the 10 amp gauge and the motor stops spinning and starts straining. Hope this helps people in the future.

 

Yes, the other way to do this safely would be to use the pins in the hydraulic assembly that utilize the cut off switch located in the slave cylinder on the passenger side. Inside this slave cylinder are two sets of wires one at the top (maximum) of the extension and one at the bottom (minimum) of the slave. These work off of the inner (chrome) part of the slave ram. When the ram extends to it's maximum level, power to the motor is stopped by the break in the circuit. Because I did not lower the slaves before removing them, when I opened the reserviours to fill them, they were not in thier lowest position and because I did not realize that there was no termination point past breaking, when I attempted to retract the cylinders to fill them, the worm gear pulled the plungers past the maximum limit of the plastic bracket that guides and seats the cylinders causing catastrophic failure of the guide, bracket and plunger seats....