Coolant tank cap was leaking, by the time the culprit was identified and replacement sourced, between top ups had lost estimated 1.5litres of coolant.

Refilled coolant, tried to do the 45degree bleed procedure, topping off in between cool downs.

Coolant temps are within a safe range but still a bit high i think: low 80C's when moving, high 80s~mid 90's (180F~200F) in stop n go traffic. But the weather is cool, 10-20C (50F-70F)these days. Think I remember the range being lower.

when the car's hot, the "valve?" in the photo is pressurized up to the point, where the metal clip has free motion (as opposed to when engine's cool, the metal clip snaps into upright or down). Is this normal or indicates there's still air trapped in the system?

BTW: What function is this mechanism supposed to be serve; the metal clip that snaps upright on the black cap with fasteners on perimeter? Wasn't entirely clear reading thru the WS manual.

Trying to locate a radtikplusa snap on tool at the moment, which is difficult to do overseas. If anyone's selling one, please PM me.

TIA

 

That's normally what happens... just pressurized system, the clip lifts.

We run them in the lift position all the time (mostly track)

 

I have one somewere in the garage, will look for it this weekend and PM you.

 

i see... but if the stem lifts higher than allows the clip to click into the "lift position", is that a problem?

the hose that returns to this position: is this from the radiator, similar to most cars? If so the function would be similar to that of a "traditional" radiator cap. Click the clip on up postion allows coolant to pass and effectively use the coolant resovoir as a seether tank... or am i way off?

great, thanks.

 

Madness, I just had my coolant changed at the dealer. I did that because my research revealed that there are check valves in the cooling system. The dealer uses a pressurized machine to force the valves open in order to flush all the old coolant by filling with new coolant. When I got it back, all was in order. I think you are dealing with these check valves and why you are having difficulties.

 

Are you attempting to bleed the system?

 

tried with out the tool with out much success. I've got a compressor at home so trying to get the snap on tool.

pretty sure there's still air in there. Coolant temps are keeping similar levels prior to leak when moving, or valves open (over 3500rpm). But if the car's stationary, temps rise in a way that didn't happen before when ambient temps were higher.

 

I am having the same issue. Drive the car for a bit the bleed valve will be raised all the way up, and the car leaks coolant from the back left corner, but never over heats.

 

if the bleed valve raises on it's own with out help of the lever, means there's air in the system, most probably from the leak.

Leaks
could be the reservoir tank, when it turns brown, sign that it's nearing replacement.
could be the reservoir cover (blue one), leaking. <-- likely this if slow leak