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Best adhesive for carbon fiber interior trim

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Old 02-22-2010, 05:46 PM
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Best adhesive for carbon fiber interior trim

I've got an 01 with the full OEM carbon fiber trim and unfortunately it is warping around both ventilation side outlets. I tried contact cement which sets up quickly but no luck.

Does anyone have any proven suggestions for a good adhesive which will bond the CF to the vent material? It's really hard to clamp the corner down for long drying times.

Ideas?

Keith
 
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Old 02-22-2010, 05:51 PM
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Gorrila Glue makes a really strong super glue. I've glue some unbelievable stuff with it around the house.
 
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Old 02-22-2010, 06:00 PM
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double sided 3m
 
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Old 02-22-2010, 06:18 PM
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make sure you soften it before clamping - a heat gun will make it very pliable very quickly. With the gorilla glue, be careful as it expands and oozes out of the joint while curing, so tape the sides with masking tape before you glue it.
 
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SweeeTT
make sure you soften it before clamping - a heat gun will make it very pliable very quickly. With the gorilla glue, be careful as it expands and oozes out of the joint while curing, so tape the sides with masking tape before you glue it.

I'd be careful with the heat gun as it depends on the type of resin that was used if it will soften or not. If it's an epoxy resin(most quality parts use this as it is more durable) it will disintegrate and bubble at the moment it softens up.
 
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:45 PM
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The thoughts of using a heat gun around the CF/resin and the leather dash scares me. I guess my best bet will be to pull the side air vents out of the dash so that I can better work on them.

I also have the CF strips that run along the base of the windshield and end under the little clip in the middle of dash. Does anyone know if the defroster cover will come out without removing the A pillar covers. I really hate working with interior bits as they are plastic, have hidden clips, break easily and cost a mint to replace!

Keith
 
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by adam699
I'd be careful with the heat gun as it depends on the type of resin that was used if it will soften or not. If it's an epoxy resin(most quality parts use this as it is more durable) it will disintegrate and bubble at the moment it softens up.
I used the heat gun on mine last year, and it didn't bubble or disintegrate. I guess you hit the nail on the head with the key phrase - "quality parts". The crap they put in our Porsches is anything but quality! Just try to find someone with the CF trim that DOES NOT have peeling/yellowing/cracking issues! It is a huge disappointment, given the thousands of dollars that Porsche charged for what was merely a cosmetic overlay onto the existing parts - intended to give the illusion of high-tech and lightweight strength.
 
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:50 PM
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Yes, i would agree that removing the vents is the easiest way to get the trim back on. You do have to remove the A pillar trim to get out the defrost vents - just make sure the trim and surrounding area is warm, because you have to pull rather hard on the trim pieces to get them out, and if they are very cold I would be concerned that the clips might break. Once you remove the side vents and the A pillar trim, start from the outside to get the defrost trim off, prying up with a scraper.
 
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Old 02-22-2010, 08:36 PM
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I got an OEM CF kit that had some slight peeling on the ac vents when I pulled out the wood from my car. I taped off the edges to protect the CF and used gorilla glue and some clamps to hold it while it dried. The glue will squeeze out so make sure you tape off the CF. It has only been about 3 mo so far but not a single sign of it separating now.
 
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Old 02-22-2010, 10:45 PM
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Pretty common problem.
Is removal and replacement w/something better-different a better tact....than trying to re-glue warped OE?
 
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:35 PM
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I am a Composite Tech and carbon doesn't like to be Glued or Clear Coated.

Conventional methods are out. Most all Trim Kits are 3M backed. This will hold great but most issues are with the Clear Coating. Yellowing & Pealing Clear Coats are usually because the part is Painted or Jell coated with a Clear Coat that is not the same properties. Poly Jell Coat or Paint doesn't stick to Epoxy.

Best option is to get your parts in Raw form (non cleared) made with Pre-Preg Epoxy. Take it to your local Paint Shop and have a nice Epoxy Clear sprayed on. If you want it shinny... I honestly prefer the Raw Dull Look.

2nd option... Carbon vinyl... it looks just like real Carbon with all the 3d weave and fibers. I have actually been fooled by this once. This is honestly a Great option for those that may not want the Carbon option later... just peal it off.

-Drew
 
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Old 02-23-2010, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Mad Ness
double sided 3m
+1- Most body shops have a fairly thin version of this than the normal out there.
 
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Old 02-23-2010, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Mad Ness
double sided 3m
+2 - Make sure you clean both surfaces very well. There are also 2-3 different 3m tapes. Read the operational temperatures. A car in direct just gets very hot.
 
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