Im a complete Noob to porsches and am learning each day. I have a GREAT list of mods thus far, but need help in getting that last lil bit out of my car. I haven't dynoe'd it, but I'd guess 530 to wheels or so. I REALLY want 600 minimum. I've been studying, and just keep hitting walls due to differences in "opinions."

My engine mods are listed below. I think more air flow, and cooler is what I need right now. So....Here are my thoughts. I'd love to hear the thoughts of all you great, wise ones!

I will run 103 unleaded race fuel at all times. Todd K @ proto will be doing a more agressive tune soon. but before I do so, I need to decide on the following and get them done before we mess with the tune.

1. Agency Power 3" Y pipe or a used Protomotive blow thru 2.5" intake system(which is a non-typical setup from what I understand) I just don't understand if I need a new plenum/TB if I do this, or if my supposed "protomotive plenum" will be good enough and mate up to these?

2. Intercoolers? I'm thinking getting the agency power intercoolers. These are 3", correct? I Keep struggling with this one. I think I want 3" so I don't ever need to change them again if I ever get crazy and change out turbos.

3. Remove Hi Flow Cats? Will this change much? Anything else to my current exhaust system.

My current mods:
Protomotive K24/18G Hybrid Turbos Clipped and Ported
Protomotive Intake-Plenum, Throttle body, Maf, Etc...
Protomotive Tuned ECU
Protomotive USB + PC Software
Fabspeed Stainless Headers
Fabspeed Hi-Flow Cats
Fabspeed Muffler
BMC Air Filter
Bailey’s DV Valves
5.0 bar Fuel Pressure Regulator
Denso Spark Plugs
Protomotive 3" Crossover Exhaust
TechArt Exhaust Tips (Powder Coated Black)
OEM Porsche GT2 Intercoolers

 

Hmm I would really dyno it first but with those turbos you should already be there or there abouts no? Before spending money see what the car does and how the tune is etc.. With good gas the turbos you have are plenty for 600hp. Looking at the list you're maybe injectors and a tune away.

 

Straight 103 opens up some doors but I wouldn't get anymore aggressive without injectors first. Assuming the clutch is good, add Markski's drop-in 3.5" intercoolers from there and be done with it.

...the y-pipe and cat removal is in the noise at the 600hp level, IMO.

 

Sorry, I don't catch what you are saying here? please clarify

 

for the AP IC's need to cut and weld 3 inch pipes (silicon hose couper type conversion) if you want 3 inch on both ends (turbo/ypipe). The stock type C clip couplers have a smaller ID.

 

I'd take the advice already offered and dyno your car. I bet it's not that far off of 600rwhp. I'm certain at that level you'll need injectors and possibly a secondary fuel pump. Just ask Todd and follow his suggestions. I don't think you need different turbos to achieve your goal.

 

He means it wont make a lot of difference/ you're unlikely to feel the extra difference at that level of power.

 

A couple pointers.

Proto makes some very fast cars, but everyone I have spoken to suggests that their blow through Ford MAF setup is less than perfect in terms of driveability at anything less than full throttle. Please feel free to correct me if this statement is off base.

I concur with everyone that 600 WHP probably needs a lot more fuel. Injectors will help but you will need more than that since the stock fuel pump becomes the choke point. Maybe upgraded fuel lines or an auxiliary fuel pump.

Finally, 600WHP on a Dynoject is generally significantly less than numbers achieved on a Mustang dyno. A good test is to ask the dyno operator give you theor results on a totally stock turbo and compare your results.

IE my car has 60LB injectors and GIAC wasn't comfortable going any higher since that car was running out of headroom at about 535 WHP. You don't want to be on the ragged edge of fuel delivery in your tuning sessions. Having headroom give the ECU a much better chance of saving your engine when it sees an issue.

Please post results (before and after). We're allways learning and it's great to see the esults.

 

As was said, dyno the car now, and see where you are. I am at 600whp with WAY less mods than you have. Just takes a little more boost to get there, if that is all you care about.

 

Thats what I thought, but....

Thanks guys. I will take the advice. Problem is, Im in small town and have to drive 6 hrs to closest dyno. Im WAY to impatient to drive to dyno, then wait weeks to do a couple mods, then drive back down, dyno again, and so on....
But I will take a breathe and go slowly.
I guess I could be wrong, but I just can't imagine some type of different intake/y pipe system wouldn't help me out. I always hear how restrictive the stock system is. Not that mines completely stock, but my airbox is, and my y pipe is. So if I go larger IC's, and larger Y-pipe, wouldn't I gain quite a bit (50-60 hp). or is it very nominal?

 

The first thing you need is a fuel system, bigger injectors at the minimum, although I would just do the whole thing in one shot (secondary pump, lines, rails).

Actually, bigger IC's are also an absolute must. The last thing would be the full blow through intake since it can get a little pricey. However it is also best to do that along w/ the IC's.

I have the blow through and I absolutely love it! In addition to the power and flow, the sound of the externally mounted wg's is glorious.

 

Buy yourself a performance box. $450-$500. Go run some 60-130's. We'll TELL you how much power you have. OR go to your local dragstrip and tell us what your trap speed is, then we'll TELL you what your power is.

 

I agree with Mike. Dynos vary too much to be an absolute measuring tool. They are best used as a relative measure of performance before and after you mod the car. Assuming you use the same dyno of course!
Somewhere between 6.5-7.0 sec in 60-130 is 600whp (on a car without significant weight reduction), imo. So if you buy a PBox and land in that range most would probably agree that you are where you want to be. The range of 0.5s is because driver skill, conditions, and car weight create addtional variables.

 

If you find you are not at the power level you are looking for, the most low hanging fruit cost-wise would be injectors. In addtion to giving you the ability to tune for more hp they also give you additional security against lean/detonation conditions. ICs would also give benefits in potential hp and detonation protection.

 

Aha! Like the VBox idea.. Looking for a V-Box now! However, I live at 5500' altitude. So I have lots of HP loss up here. I know with Turbo's, I don't lose as much power as N/A engines would, but wonder what % I am losing up here. Oh well, I'll get to PHX sometime and test it out also.

Injectors are the big question. I bought my car. Supposedly has upgraded injectors (Im sure it does as it has 5 fpr, and lots of other goodies) but don't know which injectors. So I am studying now how to replace.

Jitsu.... I have found a used blow thru system. my very uneducated concerns: 2.5" piping (vs. available 3" intakes). Will it limit me down the road if I ever get crazy and want to upgrade turbos to start running with you big dogs?

2. Previous poster said daily driveability is rough at less than full throttle? I don't daily drive, but want driveability at complete rpm range, not just high range. I will rarely be at high speeds. Just need to get there quick