Take your time. You have several options to look at. But the first thing is to refill the system with water and pressurized the expansion tank. If not you can always get somebody to start the engine and you look at the leak. Revove the air filter box to get a better look.

Expansion tank can be leaking because of dry plastic....
Water pump or fittings can be damaged...(pics)
Fittings on the alternator (generator) bracket are known to fail (unglued)(pics)
And of course any rubber lines....

Job well done by "smdubovsky" https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...top-motor.html

 

Ok, it has begun. It was exactly what most ppl thought it was going to be. The adhesive gave out and the fitting popped out. Its in a ***** of a spot.



This image is behind the alternator.

more pics here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Talisman...heCoolantLeak#

I doubt I can get this part out without pulling the motor. Does anyone have a definate answer on what the best sealant is to use here? I really want to fix it the right way, by welding new fittings in, but dont want to pull the motor.

Thanks,
Jayson

 

If it is behind the alternator you got the removal installation of the "generator" bracket in the repair manual page 646. That should help you

 

I already have the alternator out. To get to this part, I would have to remove almost everything on the driver side above the engine, and then I am still not sure I could remove it. I will look more closely at the repair manual .

Do you know a good flavor of loctite to use if I just clean the fitting and socket and re-use it.

 

I did some search about glued without any success. smdubovsky did a fantastic job with his problem and I hope he will submit some more info to help you....

 

Any ideas? Loctite? High heat silicone? permatex? Elmers Glue? Gorilla GLue?

 

any update on this?

 

yes, I wanted to be sure it held before updating. After doing a lot of research and calling around I decided to use JB Weld. All of this time, I thought this stuff was a joke, but with internet research and calling them to discuss, I gave it a shot. There was no way to remove this part without pulling the motor. I was very reluctant to do this repair, but then realized, JB Weld is going to be AT LEAST as good as what Porsche used originally.

So I removed all of the Porsche sealant from the fitting and socket, roughed up woth surface with heavy duty sand paper(per JB Weld instructions. Lined the socket walls with a small amount of JB Weld, covered the fitting with a good amount of JB Weld, inserted fitting, rotated maybe 5 degrees back and forth to insure a good seal and let it sit for 48 hours(directions said 15 hours).

So, 30 days, many full boost pulls and heat cycles later, all is good. No leaks whatsoever. I daily'd the car for a week or so to make sure it would handle the cycling.

I have a local mechanic and friend that said he has put JB Weld on an aluminum radiator(Cheap customer), its been running for more than a year. So I think I am ok. I completely hated doing the repair like this, but really didnt want to pull the motor.

Thoughts?

 

enjoy your cheap fix but keep your eye on it do periodic checks.

ive sealed engine cases(atv's) and many things with jb weld when i had no other reasonable choice.

 

Wow, I'm a little shocked that Porsche glued part of the car together!?!?

 

I had the same thing happen to me.. I had removed the the part and welded it in. You need to remove the A/C and a few other items, it can be done with out dropping the motor but is a tough one. Good job on your fix, I also tried to find out what type of glue that was, no luck here either...

 

You and every other Porsche owner... This should have been a recall item. My car only had 42000 miles.

 

The JB weld will hold just fine. I had to do that last year on mine (the second time it happened to me). The first time was at about 90,000 miles and we dropped the motor and replaced the part. The replacement part failed in 6 months and I opted to JB welded it back in and it held fine for a year. Recently, I had the motor out again and we permanently welded them in place. This part should have come welded from the factory. I think they are all going to fail at some point in their life cycle - it's a weak point, for sure.

 

there are adhesives that are stronger then welds out there. and glue all over your car. was this the best place to use glue or adhesive proabably not.



did you guys actually weld this part or braise it?

 

You will more then likelly be fine with the jb weld, I have used it a few times over the years and it has been a god send. Thanks for the update.

Josh