No bro. Not you pumptech... Mike recommends VR1, which I agree is a good oil, but then says FOR A FACT no one should use anything not recommended by the manufacturer, but VR1 does not make anything lighter than a 10-30, from what I can see. He is just trying to rip RP and nothing he says is backed by any evidence-based source or even make sense. Just makes a confusing choice even more confusing when you have someone stating strange things w/o his supposed FACTS backed up. Just contradicts?????

 

Good one... As I said b4 also I would not have beleaved the difference in spool quickness between the different weights unless I ran the test myself, this is not hearsay or second or third hand info I ran the test myself. In adition I asked boosttt if he then used 10w30 if he then had a similar result. Standard procedure in testing is the replication of results. Viscosity is determined by a measurement of the shear forces of a "fluid" . Extraplate in both directions. Use a silicon fluid like used in a viscous coupling clutch and it would be safe to say the turbos would not spool, probable barley spin. There are very short amounts of time involve here . Thousand 1 , thousand 2, thousand 3. O we are doing 60. If you are in an intersection at a light waiting to turn left the traffic clears you goose it, were is boost going to kick in 10, feet 20 , 30 feet. In time ware is that at those foot intervals. .5 sec .7 sec .9 sec. The driving experience will be quite different were boost kicks in depending on if it's 10, 20, or 30 feet. I will take the 10 feet.

 

Got it. Just for the record im runnin 5w40 mobil TDT but will likely switch to delvac 1 or amsoils euro blend or amsoil race blend. I think more ZDDP is better to an extent but u need an oil that has relatively known wear time. I have heard a lot of people bash RP on plenty of sites but nobody has any good comparative evidence. And then u find guys that put it on their french fries!! Nobody can even agree on what a good measurement of a good oil is!! I think the best thing to do is stick very close to manufacturer recommendation on weight using a reputible oil with plenty ZDDP. But thats just me being logical. Like stated oils are recommended on bearing clearances and while 0w is recommended by porsche i would certainly run it for break in. But as things loosen up i dont think a 5w is a big deal. But again being a non-newtonian fluid running a 20w for start up is a bit arrogant unless you runnin a built motor with differnt bearing clearances IMHO! Just cuz IMS noise goes down doesnt mean u doing the right thing. Im sure u can stick pancake syrip in there and quiet it down some but not many doing that. I dont think any of us have the education unless there are some fluid dynamics majors out there to really have much to say. Mine is limited to blood but i dont claim to be an expert. But i do know enough to know that i dont know!!

 

Guys- keep in mind there are 5w oils on the approved list. Both 5w40 and 5w50 weights are on "the list." 5w30 and 10w30 are not.

 

Here is a recent report for Conventional Vr1 on a 4cyl engine that makes 200hp/cyl and revs 9k RPM.. RPM is the killer of engines LONG BEFORE HP.. This is equivalent to a 1200hp Porsche..

 

Settle down hoss.. I was referring to running 20/50 in a car that calls for 0/30.. You can run a 30 weight in a car that calls for 30 weight..

Let me explain something else. you could run 50SAE in your porsche and then post that mike is talking out of his *** because nothing happened to your car in 30k miles of running.. It still doesnt mean its RIGHT.. it still doesnt mean that when you pull your engine apart and measure everything that you wouldnt have had issues at mile # 35k.. The weight of oil suggested for a car is based on bearing clearances in most cases unless there is another aspect of the engine that requires a certain weight and they tailor the bearing clearances around that..

 

recomended may not be the best. some manufactures have switched to the thinest oils to increas there fuel milage numbers to heck with anything else.

 

Umm... If you read above in my posts....I did say the 20-50 was being used in my 300ZXTT, and I was still thinking about what weight of RP I was going to use in my 996TT. I'm gonna talk to a few local Porsche gurus here in Arizona, and see if I can get more info, and maybe a source or two. I have not changed the oil in my 996TT yet. I have seen some test online that show RP 5-30 doing a great job as well, but still leaning towards 10-30 for a little extra bearing protection in the megga heat in AZ. I just want to make an informed decision. Just read the thread B4 posting please. I'm glad there are a few members posting experiences and some actual data on here, and I appreciate that.

 

Ok well just a quick lesson for you after chasing me down on my comment and telling me i am talking out of my ***..

UMM.. the 10 before the W has absolutely NO BEARING AT ALL on protection in the heat.. The W stands for WINTER.. Its the viscosity of the oil on startup..

 

The VR1 has a healthy dose of Zn and P, the key anti-wear components. There is less of this in the lighter weight oils. Something to consider, I think.

 

so my 996tt has been running mobil1 5w40 and I randomly get the poof of white smoke upon start up. Is there a reliable proven oil I could try that would eliminate the white smoke? I'm due for an oil change right now.

 

Thats common regardless of oil.. Changing will not eliminate that..

 

that sucks...I hate it when it does that. Guess I'll stick with my mobil1.

 

Most BEArINg wear occurs on startup, IIRC...

 

Wow that's a ridiculously short time period to be changing your oil. There's plenty of zinc to last a lot longer than that! What makes you think there's not enough zinc to last more than 3k miles?