Any thoughts?

http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/products/505.htm

 

Yes...we are now near 8USD/gallon due to the "euro crisis"....That's why I cannot even think about using racing fuel......

For reference I just bought two quarts of Mobil 1 5w-50 to top the tank, and I payed 45 dollars..

Castrol edge can cost up to 35 usd per quart...


Italy is a good place for holidays, not for living tho..


BTW, it's nice to have a home in Sicily, isn't it?

 

I feel your pain indeed, my wife and I are moving back for 3 years this fall, hence why I am selling my 911 TT and Cayenne TT. Lucky for me to have a great job that allows for that flexibility.

I agree about living in Italy vs. vacationing, we were back there for 30 days over Easter and could not believe the cost of everything. Then when you add the government taxing the hell out of everything, they are literally killing the people.

In reference to oil and options for you, I will send you a PM.

Ciao'

 

This reminds me of Slick 50. This swepco product might be good stuff but I believe a lot of this stuff is snake oil.

 

From the little I've gleaned elsewhere, the 'add your own' additive does not necessarily work- there is more to oil than just oil: the chemistry of the additive package(s) must be compatible, and 'stuff happens' at a chemical/molecular level (not just wear) such that it is difficult to predict.

Terry Dyson, Dyson Analysis does custom consulting on motors/oils,UOAs, if anyone is interested.

A

 

anyone know if LUBRO MOLY oil is good in our cars?

 

My mechanic told me that Lubro Moly is the oil these cars actually come with from the Porsche factory (despite their Mobil 1 endorsements). I'm actually getting LM 0w40 put in today for my oil change.

 

my mechanic friend and he also races.. said that he has opened up engines that use mobil oil and he does not like what he sees... he swears that lubro moly is the better oil out there.... after using lubro moly oil on the engines he rebuilds he said they are new looking inside...

 

same? i just put this(the 4100, 5W/40) in my tt and seems to me the chatter of whatever is making those noises has been at present ,abated,,,we'll see how long this lasts

 

One common theme I've seen over the years is that any owner that has no real clue about cars will engender a willingness in "mechanics" to boast and pontificate in ways that are really unsupportable once serious and thoughtful thinking and analysis is applied. We see it all the time here- ("find another mechanic, there is no head gasket on the transmission" was a recent one).

The definition of an expert seems to be anyone with just a little bit more knowledge than the recipient....

A

 

Haha, good point. We are quick to put a lot of faith in our tuners and many times without good (enough) reason. So what qualifies as an expert?

IMO someone who has torn down hundreds of motors while keeping track of the factors that cause the results of the findings and also has lots of oil analysis to back it up. There are plenty of those around here, and likely plenty of options too. Like any other industry, this stuff can be tested and proven, and the competition level is high, so there is likely more than one oil producer that can get the job done.

 

Precisely...the trick is separating the wheat from the chaff, eh?

Tearing down stock motors with unknown maintenace and who-knows-what prior history- and observing the internals is one thing.... annual rebuilds, serial UOAs over the season, seeing the same motors from time to time will be quite another.

I suspect most real experts don't feel a need to talk much about it, much less argue on the internet...they'll share knowledge when it matter$$$ in their race team, cars they service and rebuild, etc. Otherwise, I suspect you don't hear too much.

IMO

A

 

If I had the time I would add a secondary oil system for the turbos so I could run 10 w30 for the turbos and 20w50 in the engine. Last summer in the corse of a week I ran 20w50 than 15w40 than 10 w30. The spool is unbelievably quicker with the 10w30. I would rather run a thicker oil but the almost instant spool with the 10w30 is worth the trade off.

 

An important factor in our cars is that the vario cam, requires very thin oil to operate the hydraulics quickly and properly. Hence the the factory requirement for 0-40 .this is more important than the high end of viscosity. The synthetic oils resist thermal breakdown better. so the the high viscosity at 40 w is usually good enough in a water cooled engine.

 

Umm...The people ripping Royal purple should look at this test. The 300ZXTT community highly recommends RP oil because of it is resistance to thermal breakdown in turbo's and has excellent wear properties. Amsoil probably lasts longer than other oils, and is not in this study. This is an independent study. Look at this link:

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf