K24 20G setup
[QUOTE=Y3LO 01;2983414]Makes sense. I assume there are no issues on a tiptronic and maintaining AWD.[/QUOTE]
there are many issues with the stock tiptronic over 550whp. I would not suggest going with a set up that makes much more than 550 for a stock tip.
Do you want to drag race or roll race? If you like to drag race, then look into a higher stall converter. If you want a car that is a beast from a roll, forget the higher stall. 24/18's are all you will ever be able to use on a stock tiptronic. Unless you never mash the go pedal. The tip just can't hold the power mainly from 3rd gear to 4th gear in high boost.
i rebuilt my tip once after running 16/16's for almost 2 years, and then added 18g's and if I had run high boost on the 18's for longer than a weekend, I would have had to rebuild it again.
there are many issues with the stock tiptronic over 550whp. I would not suggest going with a set up that makes much more than 550 for a stock tip.
Do you want to drag race or roll race? If you like to drag race, then look into a higher stall converter. If you want a car that is a beast from a roll, forget the higher stall. 24/18's are all you will ever be able to use on a stock tiptronic. Unless you never mash the go pedal. The tip just can't hold the power mainly from 3rd gear to 4th gear in high boost.
i rebuilt my tip once after running 16/16's for almost 2 years, and then added 18g's and if I had run high boost on the 18's for longer than a weekend, I would have had to rebuild it again.
intake $1000
turbos $4500
3.5" ICs $2.2K or $2.6k with hoses
injectors $550
this is the skeleton approach but still works well...
__________________

2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL

2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
Caution
Okay you need to think very carefully here.
I have done the full protomotive k20 set up with absolutely everything, including 5 inch ICs, full blow thru injectors etc etc.
When I ran the car at just 0.8 bar (with the ebc switch off) it trashed the gearbox in 20 miles. When we put the PIWIS on it, it had every single tiptronic fault code you could imagine.
I can tell you that 0.8 bar is approx 460awhp (590hp at the crank - there is around 28% loss according to MKB specialists on the MB box). I know this because I have raced on airfield a 530ps Porsche, and it left it for 10 car lengths. That 530ps is guaranteed. We have logs against other cars that support it.
I sent it for upgrade to MKB. It works perfectly. It cost 4300 Euros including shipping. It is rated to 1300nm tq!!!
I have run the car at 1.5 bar and it made 2.5 seconds 60-100. I have made 5.8 to 100 at that same boost. I don't know what that makes to the wheels, but Todd K estimates around 680-700awhp. At 28% loss that is a lot to the crank.
I generally run it at 1.3 bar, in which case the above is 3.1 and 6.6 respectively.
The upgrade from MKB also changes out the solenoids and that does improve shift time. It is like an DSG box afterwards.
I just brought another gearbox as spare and it is with MKB for upgrade. That box in total (with only 500 miles on it) will cost the best part of 7000 GBP. It is not that I expect the MKB to go wrong and the warranty is excellent. But they are hard to come by.
One final thing - with the full set up, there is absolutely no lag. The power is just always there. I have a friend who has the 18g, and it is night and day difference, but I suspect that because he does not have injectors, blow thru etc.
The full set up cost me the other side of 30k USD, including the gearbox. It is not cheap, but she does fly.
I have done the full protomotive k20 set up with absolutely everything, including 5 inch ICs, full blow thru injectors etc etc.
When I ran the car at just 0.8 bar (with the ebc switch off) it trashed the gearbox in 20 miles. When we put the PIWIS on it, it had every single tiptronic fault code you could imagine.
I can tell you that 0.8 bar is approx 460awhp (590hp at the crank - there is around 28% loss according to MKB specialists on the MB box). I know this because I have raced on airfield a 530ps Porsche, and it left it for 10 car lengths. That 530ps is guaranteed. We have logs against other cars that support it.
I sent it for upgrade to MKB. It works perfectly. It cost 4300 Euros including shipping. It is rated to 1300nm tq!!!
I have run the car at 1.5 bar and it made 2.5 seconds 60-100. I have made 5.8 to 100 at that same boost. I don't know what that makes to the wheels, but Todd K estimates around 680-700awhp. At 28% loss that is a lot to the crank.
I generally run it at 1.3 bar, in which case the above is 3.1 and 6.6 respectively.
The upgrade from MKB also changes out the solenoids and that does improve shift time. It is like an DSG box afterwards.
I just brought another gearbox as spare and it is with MKB for upgrade. That box in total (with only 500 miles on it) will cost the best part of 7000 GBP. It is not that I expect the MKB to go wrong and the warranty is excellent. But they are hard to come by.
One final thing - with the full set up, there is absolutely no lag. The power is just always there. I have a friend who has the 18g, and it is night and day difference, but I suspect that because he does not have injectors, blow thru etc.
The full set up cost me the other side of 30k USD, including the gearbox. It is not cheap, but she does fly.
Okay you need to think very carefully here.
I have done the full protomotive k20 set up with absolutely everything, including 5 inch ICs, full blow thru injectors etc etc.
When I ran the car at just 0.8 bar (with the ebc switch off) it trashed the gearbox in 20 miles. When we put the PIWIS on it, it had every single tiptronic fault code you could imagine.
I can tell you that 0.8 bar is approx 460awhp (590hp at the crank - there is around 28% loss according to MKB specialists on the MB box). I know this because I have raced on airfield a 530ps Porsche, and it left it for 10 car lengths. That 530ps is guaranteed. We have logs against other cars that support it.
I sent it for upgrade to MKB. It works perfectly. It cost 4300 Euros including shipping. It is rated to 1300nm tq!!!
I have run the car at 1.5 bar and it made 2.5 seconds 60-100. I have made 5.8 to 100 at that same boost. I don't know what that makes to the wheels, but Todd K estimates around 680-700awhp. At 28% loss that is a lot to the crank.
I generally run it at 1.3 bar, in which case the above is 3.1 and 6.6 respectively.
The upgrade from MKB also changes out the solenoids and that does improve shift time. It is like an DSG box afterwards.
I just brought another gearbox as spare and it is with MKB for upgrade. That box in total (with only 500 miles on it) will cost the best part of 7000 GBP. It is not that I expect the MKB to go wrong and the warranty is excellent. But they are hard to come by.
One final thing - with the full set up, there is absolutely no lag. The power is just always there. I have a friend who has the 18g, and it is night and day difference, but I suspect that because he does not have injectors, blow thru etc.
The full set up cost me the other side of 30k USD, including the gearbox. It is not cheap, but she does fly.
I have done the full protomotive k20 set up with absolutely everything, including 5 inch ICs, full blow thru injectors etc etc.
When I ran the car at just 0.8 bar (with the ebc switch off) it trashed the gearbox in 20 miles. When we put the PIWIS on it, it had every single tiptronic fault code you could imagine.
I can tell you that 0.8 bar is approx 460awhp (590hp at the crank - there is around 28% loss according to MKB specialists on the MB box). I know this because I have raced on airfield a 530ps Porsche, and it left it for 10 car lengths. That 530ps is guaranteed. We have logs against other cars that support it.
I sent it for upgrade to MKB. It works perfectly. It cost 4300 Euros including shipping. It is rated to 1300nm tq!!!
I have run the car at 1.5 bar and it made 2.5 seconds 60-100. I have made 5.8 to 100 at that same boost. I don't know what that makes to the wheels, but Todd K estimates around 680-700awhp. At 28% loss that is a lot to the crank.
I generally run it at 1.3 bar, in which case the above is 3.1 and 6.6 respectively.
The upgrade from MKB also changes out the solenoids and that does improve shift time. It is like an DSG box afterwards.
I just brought another gearbox as spare and it is with MKB for upgrade. That box in total (with only 500 miles on it) will cost the best part of 7000 GBP. It is not that I expect the MKB to go wrong and the warranty is excellent. But they are hard to come by.
One final thing - with the full set up, there is absolutely no lag. The power is just always there. I have a friend who has the 18g, and it is night and day difference, but I suspect that because he does not have injectors, blow thru etc.
The full set up cost me the other side of 30k USD, including the gearbox. It is not cheap, but she does fly.
Any 60-130 ran??
verified 6.66 @ 1.3 bar, fully fueled and 2 persons.
I suspect it will be do mid 5 secs.
I have not had a chance to do another, and won't until mid October.
I suspect it will be do mid 5 secs.
I have not had a chance to do another, and won't until mid October.
Mark is right, anything above a K16 will benifit with supporting mods. I just put the rear intake piping on my car with AP TB and it made a huge difference in both spool and top end power. Cant wait to have it redyno'd and take it to the track again.
One more word of caution dont forget to regularly change out the ATF this will help with longevity of your trans when you have more then 600lb/ft!!!
One more word of caution dont forget to regularly change out the ATF this will help with longevity of your trans when you have more then 600lb/ft!!!
Okay you need to think very carefully here.
I have done the full protomotive k20 set up with absolutely everything, including 5 inch ICs, full blow thru injectors etc etc.
When I ran the car at just 0.8 bar (with the ebc switch off) it trashed the gearbox in 20 miles. When we put the PIWIS on it, it had every single tiptronic fault code you could imagine.
I can tell you that 0.8 bar is approx 460awhp (590hp at the crank - there is around 28% loss according to MKB specialists on the MB box). I know this because I have raced on airfield a 530ps Porsche, and it left it for 10 car lengths. That 530ps is guaranteed. We have logs against other cars that support it.
I sent it for upgrade to MKB. It works perfectly. It cost 4300 Euros including shipping. It is rated to 1300nm tq!!!
I have run the car at 1.5 bar and it made 2.5 seconds 60-100. I have made 5.8 to 100 at that same boost. I don't know what that makes to the wheels, but Todd K estimates around 680-700awhp. At 28% loss that is a lot to the crank.
I generally run it at 1.3 bar, in which case the above is 3.1 and 6.6 respectively.
The upgrade from MKB also changes out the solenoids and that does improve shift time. It is like an DSG box afterwards.
I just brought another gearbox as spare and it is with MKB for upgrade. That box in total (with only 500 miles on it) will cost the best part of 7000 GBP. It is not that I expect the MKB to go wrong and the warranty is excellent. But they are hard to come by.
One final thing - with the full set up, there is absolutely no lag. The power is just always there. I have a friend who has the 18g, and it is night and day difference, but I suspect that because he does not have injectors, blow thru etc.
The full set up cost me the other side of 30k USD, including the gearbox. It is not cheap, but she does fly.
I have done the full protomotive k20 set up with absolutely everything, including 5 inch ICs, full blow thru injectors etc etc.
When I ran the car at just 0.8 bar (with the ebc switch off) it trashed the gearbox in 20 miles. When we put the PIWIS on it, it had every single tiptronic fault code you could imagine.
I can tell you that 0.8 bar is approx 460awhp (590hp at the crank - there is around 28% loss according to MKB specialists on the MB box). I know this because I have raced on airfield a 530ps Porsche, and it left it for 10 car lengths. That 530ps is guaranteed. We have logs against other cars that support it.
I sent it for upgrade to MKB. It works perfectly. It cost 4300 Euros including shipping. It is rated to 1300nm tq!!!
I have run the car at 1.5 bar and it made 2.5 seconds 60-100. I have made 5.8 to 100 at that same boost. I don't know what that makes to the wheels, but Todd K estimates around 680-700awhp. At 28% loss that is a lot to the crank.
I generally run it at 1.3 bar, in which case the above is 3.1 and 6.6 respectively.
The upgrade from MKB also changes out the solenoids and that does improve shift time. It is like an DSG box afterwards.
I just brought another gearbox as spare and it is with MKB for upgrade. That box in total (with only 500 miles on it) will cost the best part of 7000 GBP. It is not that I expect the MKB to go wrong and the warranty is excellent. But they are hard to come by.
One final thing - with the full set up, there is absolutely no lag. The power is just always there. I have a friend who has the 18g, and it is night and day difference, but I suspect that because he does not have injectors, blow thru etc.
The full set up cost me the other side of 30k USD, including the gearbox. It is not cheap, but she does fly.
The point with the box is that it is tq that kills the tranmission, not hp. That is the limit in real terms. I agree if you had a nearly new transmission, that it probably would hold on an 18g, but there is a hell of a difference with the full setup on 20g compared to 18g on basic.
The issue is not slipping whilst WOT, but being able to change gear at WOT. It is impossible.
Maybe some of the others have been lucky, or to be frank, are just not making the same power level. If you look at Max (video) his car slipped virtually straight away after his install. He then sent it to MKB. That is how I found out about them, from Max. Maybe my car is putting out more hp that I think.
The problem that you have is that there are a serious of clutch packs in the transmission. There is one for 1st and 2nd gear, one for 3rd, and one for 4th and 5th. These are a series of rings contained within a housing. Bascially MKB change the housing to accomodate more, but importantly use kelvar clutches, as used in MB motorsport in the SLR series. The update the TCU to increase the tq limit to 1300nm.
I just give you my opinion. If you go to the 20gs, you will need the upgrade. Whether that is in 500 miles or 2000 miles, but it will be very soon. No point having the full works, and then not being able to drive it.
Last edited by 996ttalot; Sep 21, 2010 at 03:17 PM. Reason: spelling

We saw that in many cars
It will do 5.xx if I turn the boost up since I did get a 2.5 60-100 @ 1.5 bar, but unfortunately had a police car going the other way so was unable to finish that run

Will be taking the car to Bruntingthrope next month. I expect to see 200 in a mile, or very close + 23 sec 0-300kph. We will see.
Okay you need to think very carefully here.
I have done the full protomotive k20 set up with absolutely everything, including 5 inch ICs, full blow thru injectors etc etc.
I have run the car at 1.5 bar and it made 2.5 seconds 60-100. I have made 5.8 to 100 at that same boost. I don't know what that makes to the wheels, but Todd K estimates around 680-700awhp. At 28% loss that is a lot to the crank.
The full set up cost me the other side of 30k USD, including the gearbox. It is not cheap, but she does fly.
I have done the full protomotive k20 set up with absolutely everything, including 5 inch ICs, full blow thru injectors etc etc.
I have run the car at 1.5 bar and it made 2.5 seconds 60-100. I have made 5.8 to 100 at that same boost. I don't know what that makes to the wheels, but Todd K estimates around 680-700awhp. At 28% loss that is a lot to the crank.
The full set up cost me the other side of 30k USD, including the gearbox. It is not cheap, but she does fly.
Do you want to drag race or roll race? If you like to drag race, then look into a higher stall converter. If you want a car that is a beast from a roll, forget the higher stall. 24/18's are all you will ever be able to use on a stock tiptronic. Unless you never mash the go pedal. The tip just can't hold the power mainly from 3rd gear to 4th gear in high boost.
i rebuilt my tip once after running 16/16's for almost 2 years, and then added 18g's and if I had run high boost on the 18's for longer than a weekend, I would have had to rebuild it again.
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