I'm cross posting this with another forum that will go unnamed but that I also found incredibly helpful when pulling my transmission out for RMS and Clutch replacement. I just wanted to give back a bit with some of my lessons learned to hopefully help some others the same way this helped me.Multiple times I thought "this is impossible" but having these tips and knowing others have done allowed me to persevere and work through the challenges.

A few tips I would add:

Fork Shaft Removal - I could not get the cap off and struggled for an hour. I finally figured out the trick that worked for me. I uses a pair of two position slip joint pliers in the open position and grabbed the cap around the outer perimeter. I was trying to grab the center nub that the bracket fits over and there's just not enough to grab onto. Seems obvious after the fact of course.

Getting the heater hoses above the gearbox- This also didn't seem possible at first, even after removing all the clamps including some holding the metal pipes to the body and lowing the transmission significantly. The trick turned out to be raising the pipes on the driver side as high as possible which will allow the hard pipe section to slip up over the drive shaft flange.

I removed the crash bracket and double nutted the starter side upper stud out of the engine.

I did not remove the sway bar.

I did remove the accumulator. I pumped the clutch mercilessly and got almost no fluid out of the accumulator. This was actually pretty easy to remove with the trans lowered and axles disconnected.



Reinstalling the transmission. The biggest tip I have for this is matching the angle of the engine and trans. I used a digital level (only $18 on Amazon) and matched the angle of the transmission to the engine both vertically and horizontally. This allowed me to much more easily just raise it to the correct height and slide it on. It wasn't that easy but better than struggling trying to get things to line up on the fly.



Last thing, a bit of a shameless plug. While doing this job I took the time to design and test 3D printed tools to help with some of the pain points.

I designed a guard that goes in the shaft access port and prevents tools and hardware from falling into the bellhousing.

I designed a tool that fits into the starter hole to help push the fork shaft out from the opposite side of the access port.

I designed a tool that eliminates the dreaded fork to pressure plate tape procedure. Instead I use a small clip that locks the fork to the pressure plate using a pin and multiple neodymium magnets.

I made alignment pins that help get the fork into position in the shaft bosses.

I also made a fork holder that inserts into the slave cylinder port and helps hold the fork in place while you insert the clutch fork shaft. Again, this uses multiple neodymium magnets along with locking arms to hold it in the port.



Separate issue but I also created an RMS press tool and flywheel lock because they are ridiculously expensive.



If you want to check them out you can find them on my ebay store https://www.ebay.com/str/thirdwave3d

 

Adding this to my collection of DIY manuals. Graet work and details. Thank you

 

Done clutches at the track on a BMW 2002 Tii on jack stands and on my back. Never on a Porsche. Has anyone done this using a QuickJack?

 

Just got done with replacing the clutch on my 02. Great DIY. I got the tools made by UnlikelyToPost and the worked amazingly. I never did a clutch before. The tools made the fork part of the job super easy. I nailed it the first try. That and using a borescope camera. Took for s short drive this morn, so far so good! Put in Kevin's clutch setup with DMFW. Anyone looking for an AASCO LWFW shoot me a PM.

List of torque specs from the factory repair manual for reference (do you own research and verify, etc.)

911 Tranny Torques (NM):
- Flywheel bolts - 85
- Pressure plate bolts - 23
- Tranny on engine - 45
- Slave on tranny - 45
- Slave bracket - 23
- Drive shaft on tranny flange - 45
- Starter M10 - 45
- Tranny support to tranny mount - 65
- Tranny mount to body - 65
- Drive shaft flange to tranny - 45
- Engine mount to engine carrier - 85
- Cross member at front to carrier side section M10 - 65
- Diagonal brace to body M10 - 65
- Diagonal brace to cross member M12 - 110
- Diagonal brace to carrier side section (collar nut) M10 - 23
- Stabilizer to carrier side section M8 - 23
- Stabilizer to stabilizer mount M10 - 46

 

^ Congrats on the successful clutch swap. Job well done. I'm hoping my last years 764/098/dmfw clutch swap, will be my last.

Nice to see a long time poster still here. Not many of us left "here" it seems.

 

Thanks! Was a big job, but not bad at all with the right tools. Same, hope this is the last clutch for my lifetime in the car haha, but will def drive the car more now, the last clutch as an on/off switch and was terrible to drive. Def nice to see you are still on here as well, I think a lot have moved on or don't do much with their car anymore like me. Can't believe it's been 16 years since I got her. She has def aged better than me

 

I understand and yes to the 16 years also! Some of us "old timers" still around.

Keep on keepin' on brother!

 

Are the half shaft bolts re-usable or are they stretch bolts recommended to be replaced when doing a clutch job?

 

Hopefully I got the right stuff.

Ordered Loctite 574 Flange Sealant.

 

Couldn't get the selector bushing and sleeves quick enough and after changing the gear oil, might have been overfilled a bit. The weep is so minor (never a drip on the groun) that between everything decided to just press.

I modded the pivot shaft cap as it's a ridiculous game to play if/when I ever get in there in there again. Added an M6x15 flange bolt and locknut. Infinitely easier to install or remove.



Got her buttoned up and everything is gravy.