The shop I worked for at the time did hundreds like this. But you are right, it is nicer to have and safer.

 

great write-up.


+ rep points for you.


What were all the parts needed to be replaced?

 

Sorry if I missed this in this diy but looks like the crank reference sensor needs to be removed?

Thanks to everyone for the contribution here it's very helpful

 

I have now done this job 2x once with engine out and once with transmission out on my garage floor.

I think the major issue with transmission only out is the clutch fork install.

I put a hole in the end cap using 1/4 drill bit. Then I threaded a 100mm M6 screw into it while everything on the pivot rod was assembled.
I had the engine released from the motor mounts 3" approximately and was able to reach the clutch fork with my other hand through the inspection holes. I was laying directly under the transmission with my feet towards the engine.

I was able to wiggle the fork while I pushed the pivot rod in. I also had the hole for the air intake on the pivot rod side taped up with masking tape in case something fell.

With this technique I had the clutch fork installed in my first attempt and while somewhat more difficult than a Carrera it was not too bad. I had little to no frustration. The transmission was installed and buttoned up in 4hrs

Imo there is no need to remove the engine and make a coolant mess and expenses of fluids if no other work is needed.

 

I'm getting ready to replace the clutch and rebuild my leaking slave cylinder. 2003TT-50K miles. All stock components and replacing with same. I've got ~500HP at the engine, and these components have lasted 50K miles, as such I see no need to upgrade at this point.

1. On one parts list I found a Pilot Bearing 99905216900. I don't see where this is needed, can someone confirm?
2. Slave rebuild, I found Rennfix o'ring kit with good instructions. Seems like the best cost option-any reviews or experience with this?
3. Rear main seal-I see comments both ways as to replacement. Is it just a simple seal replacement, risks involved, better to leave it alone if not leaking?
4. Guide tube and screws-I see them on the list but no on DIY, assume they are needed correct?

Thanks in advance, I'm excited to get this done, but a little nervous also. I just replaced the suspension with B8's last year, replaced plugs, and just recently replaced the water pump. That water pump is a PITA for something I expected would be easy.

 

1. 
   
2. No experience with this, to counter your thoughts, you may have lasted 50k but that's not typical. Are you the OG owner? How sure are you that the slave and accumulator are from factory? I'd say you should change it and simplify the system by eliminating the accumulator. It makes install and removal of the slave a lot easier as well.
3. It needs a special tool to install correctly. I left mine alone at 60k
4. Pretty straight forward for someone as skilled as you. My only advice would be to use a manual impact driver and a good bit to loosen the old screws. After loosening I'd use a 1/4 ratchet and remove it manually. Your experience may vary.

 

Re the RMS replacement, I've done both. e.g. replaced with anew one when not necessary so as to have it "new", but also left it alone once as it was not seeping. I do believe there is a consensus view that it should be left alone if there is no obvious issue with it, as ensuring it seats properly is all but assured if you don't touch it! It does require some special tool as I recall(?) but it's really just a large rubber "o-ring". I'd leave it alone and just did that when I had replaced my clutch a cpl k miles ago but it wasn;t my decision alone as a mechanic did the work. I stared at it once opened and agreed. Leave it "as is" and that's been fine.

I've long since stopped worrying about the accumulator since I also long ago "jumped" the switch at the pedal, that requires clutch engagement to start the car. Slaves are a "wear" item and not engaging the clutch absent hydraulic "pressure" I do believe is a contributing factor toward premature failure of the accumulator, if not the slave itself. They last on average about five years either way has been my experience. Other than a beefier Sachs clutch, I'm used to the OEM hydraulics as they are, and so have decided to keep them operational and have no regrets.

Agree also, that the only real reason that engine drop is the "preferred method" by so many to R&R the clutch is indeed, re-installing the clutch fork. My newest tech prefers to drop the engine for just that reason. But not all all "necessary" to drop the motor.

When I did my clutch DIY with my tech pal ten years ago. We spent at least an hour fiddling with it to get it to align with trans in, and the car on a lift.

It's really kind of one of those "six of one a half dozen of another" kind of decisions.

 

Thanks for the comments guys! Pilot bearing does not look like where I'll be working I'll assume it's a mistake on the Rennlist list.

I'll order the guide tube, must be obvious where it goes once I get in there. I'm nearly 100% sure the clutch slave is original and I replaced the accumulator a few years ago so it's probably due while I'm in there.

Not sure I understand the comment about bypassing the hydraulic switch and longevity?

I purchased the car with 17K miles and it came with full records. Overall stock will be fine since I will likely sell the car in the next 2-3 years max. A sweet garage queen. Even thought I've been on the track a few times, the car is nearly new looking and still has the new car smell inside! It will be difficult to sell-maybe going to a new Taycan once the charging network improves.

 

Sounds like you have a gorgeous keeper, they don't make these like a mezger anymore. Hopefully you keep her.

As an EV owner myself I get how they can be satisfying to drive with the flat torque but everytime I drive the turbo I have this stupid smile on my face that you couldn't smack off me.

Good luck with the R+R.

Don't bother dropping the motor honestly just get a long bolt to thread in the pivot pin and you can get a helper for 15-30mins you can have that fork on like box cake. See my previous post.

The guide tube is in the clutch housing / bell housing. It'll be more than obvious what you have to do here.

 

Reading through the earlier pages of this thread going back near 15 years and it should all be included as a "how to" manual. Kudos to all those that came before. Nothing has been overlooked.

 

I'm probably going to do an engine out when my clutch goes, simply to address the coolant lines and all the other plastic and rubber bits (coolant reservoir, coolant rubber lines, check valves, etc, etc) at the same time...

 

This thread made it like box cake for me and I don't see out of one eye and have injuries. I can't thank everyone enough for their contributions

Cheers

 

Yeah, good stuff here. A shame the site has seemingly been forgotten in favor of that other one. I've always found this forum really helpful and this thread is a case in point for sure.

@DaveSen I was trying to point out my very unscientific and highly anecdotal experience re the slave/accumulator relative to the switch at the pedal that is "jumped" which then eliminates the need to "clutch in" to start the car.

Over the years many have agreed this is a strong possibility, in that by engaging the clutch before there is any pentosin "pressure" built up prior to starting the car, that this creates undue "stress" on the finicky slave/accumulator components. If my theory is actually correct? It would go a long way to explaining why I have never had accumulator issues after this very simple mod or the slave now that I think on it. Obviously the entire point of the aptly named "accumulator" is to maintain "pressure" prior to start up making the clutch pedal softer and easier to engage. As far as I know? That's the only reason it exists and when failing? The only real symptom that I know of is a hard pedal pre start-up. The actual protocol and diagnosis to determine if the accumulator IS failed? Is like 20 engine off "pumps" on the pedal ( something like that )...

Like I say, hardly "scientific"! but a lot of folks jump the switch as I have, and I assume it's for the same reasons I have. It's only a wise thing to do if you're prone to and through force of habit, always check the gearshift to ensure you're in neutral! Or else if starting the car without the clutch if parked in say, first gear? all but guarantees certain impact into anything in front of the car! But again, I'm always parked in neutral and always "left/right" toggle the gearshift before I turn the ignition.

Long winded answer I admit. But I hope that clarifies the what/why of it for you. Good luck btw, on the clutch R&R.

ADD: One last piece of advice! Swap the slave at the same time as the clutch and accumulator. It's not worth having it fail if all else is "new".

 

Thanks .X50. I understand now. For me with intentions of selling in the next few years I am going to stay stock on as items like this. Appreciate the explanation.

 

I jumped the clutch switch in mine too. Not sure if that helps the accumulator or not, I had to replace mine shortly after I bought the car, it's been fine ever since. I've driven several cars with the GT2/BBi clutch slave conversions and I'm really not a fan of the heavy pedal effort. All had the correct mixture of parts and no, I don't miss leg day! I do a lot of cycling, so that's not the issue. Obviously this is personal preference, but IMO, the clutch pedal effort is just too high with the conversions, especially if you drive in traffic.