996 TT - 0.5 BAR - Suggestions?
#16
Update - I've pressure tested the wastegates. They both open and actuate smoothly. No leaks - they hold pressure.
Cleaned the MAF. Power deilvery is smoother now I would say.
I've tightened every single connector.
Pressure tested the system via the intake with 20 pounds and I can hear the leak in around the rear differential. Perhaps leaking through the crank case or main bearing? Did this at least a dozen times. I've squirted soapy water onto every visible connection and poked around everywhere without dropping the engine.
I've spent considerable time troubleshooting it. Taking it to my mechanic Furtmair now.
I didn't get a chance to pressure test actual turbos thereby eliminate the vacuum section of the intake.
Any input is appreciated!
Cleaned the MAF. Power deilvery is smoother now I would say.
I've tightened every single connector.
Pressure tested the system via the intake with 20 pounds and I can hear the leak in around the rear differential. Perhaps leaking through the crank case or main bearing? Did this at least a dozen times. I've squirted soapy water onto every visible connection and poked around everywhere without dropping the engine.
I've spent considerable time troubleshooting it. Taking it to my mechanic Furtmair now.
I didn't get a chance to pressure test actual turbos thereby eliminate the vacuum section of the intake.
Any input is appreciated!
#17
Add this one to the knowledge base!
On / off throttle is much smoother. Idle drops quicker when clutched in.
Airfilter housing and intake "y" pipe removed. Output diagnostic was performed. "Cycle valve" stays open all the time. In other words, the DV's were staying open all the time in recirulation mode.
Car goes like a stung mule. Peaks at 1.2 BAR. $36 part. 2.5 yrs labour.
On / off throttle is much smoother. Idle drops quicker when clutched in.
Airfilter housing and intake "y" pipe removed. Output diagnostic was performed. "Cycle valve" stays open all the time. In other words, the DV's were staying open all the time in recirulation mode.
Car goes like a stung mule. Peaks at 1.2 BAR. $36 part. 2.5 yrs labour.
#18
Add this one to the knowledge base!
On / off throttle is much smoother. Idle drops quicker when clutched in.
Airfilter housing and intake "y" pipe removed. Output diagnostic was performed. "Cycle valve" stays open all the time. In other words, the DV's were staying open all the time in recirulation mode.
Car goes like a stung mule. Peaks at 1.2 BAR. $36 part. 2.5 yrs labour.
On / off throttle is much smoother. Idle drops quicker when clutched in.
Airfilter housing and intake "y" pipe removed. Output diagnostic was performed. "Cycle valve" stays open all the time. In other words, the DV's were staying open all the time in recirulation mode.
Car goes like a stung mule. Peaks at 1.2 BAR. $36 part. 2.5 yrs labour.
What part did you buy to fix this ??? The cycle valve ?
#19
i kind of missed the punch line too. i'm going with it's the boost recirculation valve. if "cycle valve" is another name for it, we may have an answer. i'm told they tend to deteriorate and cause boost leaks at higher revs. that's my guess.
but what part is $36.00 bucks!?
but what part is $36.00 bucks!?
#21
didn't realize that the wastegate bypass regulator n75 valve was the same as the boost recirculation valve. they are the same? anyway.. that's the $36.00 ( or $75.00 ) part. doh!
still learnin'.
still learnin'.
#22
I am definitely still learning. I had some issues with a bad N75 valve that causing boost issues. I can see if the DV's are staying open, it would be very difficult to build boost.
#23
they are two different valves- right?? and both when stuck open prevent turbo pressure- right? Are both problems equally llikely.
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markski@markskituning
996 Turbo / GT2
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08-24-2015 10:07 AM