I will go check it.

But I think that is another problem. When the panel lights turn on the turnos are limit to 0.8 Bar!

Thanks

 

Well said!

 

If the dyno's are the same brand and model number you most certainly can compare the two numbers. It's done all the time. How do you think NASA has a national event with people from all over the country classed on power to weight ratio? They impound a ton of cars over the course of the week along with people who voluntarily go and get their cars dyno'd and people get within 5 hp of their dyno's from their home town. And these cars get on track and are mostly identical in straight line speed.

Anyone can get a dyno with 50 whp difference, go to a Dyno Dynamics or Mustang and then to a Dynojet. Simple. I have two sheets from a couple of months apart that are 85 whp apart. That doesn't change he fact that you can in fact get a ballpark number and baseline is NOT everything.

That being said, I'm not going to hijack this thread any further, anyone who wants to do some research can look around and do some homework on the dyno's around them and decide for themselves. But saying a dyno is no good for any thing but delta is blatantly false.

 

To clarify the UK and Europe use S_HP. Which is a calculated crank HP not wheel.
Most good dynos over here now work out what the losses in the wheels and drive chain . This is done by reversal of the dyno process.
Have you ever wondered why the Dyno operator is intensely monitoring the dyno even when the run is completed and the car is running down speed in gear. Well instead of the dyno working out what the Torque is at the wheels, when the operator lifts off power and leaves the car in gear the dyno works out how much torque is being used / sapped on the run down. Basically as the car slows the dyno is measuring the negative amount of effort it is putting into the rollers. Hence giving you losses. Most manufactures will also give correction figures for their cars.
That's how crank HP is measured. Don't ask why we have gone down this route. why do you call Bonnets , Hoods and Pavements , Side walks.lol its just one of those cultural differences.

what I would say is a dyno isn't really anygood unless its the same one you use, with the same temps, fuel ,tyres etc. Another thing to remember, you will always get more power off a dyno once your out in the cool air. eg, if your standard 996tt shown only 410 bhp on the dyno, you can bet it will be more out on the road. Dynos are good for comparisons and not good for betting your house on.

As to tuning, no good dyno operator will tune a car before getting a base line Dyno reading. Its the only way to know you have achieved anything.
There isn't really an argument to have if your a good tuner you always do a pre tune , base line run.

 

Hi,

I check the brake pedal switch. Disconnect and connect the wires and drive some kilometers. The ABS+PSM light didn’t turn on.

However, in the next day I drove again the car and when I braked hard the lights turn on again. I stopped the car disconnect and connect again the wires and drive some kilometers. The ABS+PSM light didn’t turn on.

Like you suggest I think the switch is not OK and I will buy a new one to replace this.

Thanks for your suggest.

Best Regards,
Vitor S.

 

glad to help, it drove me mad for months , i was driving with no brake lights no abs and no psm and it was just a £10 under brake pedal !

 

You're right. In the graph sheet we can read "engine power".

Sorry for my mistake!

VS

 

Congratulations. Nice job and have fun

 

I ordered the brake pedal switch but I didn´t receive it yet.

Today I drove the car again.

The ABS+PSM light turn on without brake.

This happened also with your car?

I'm worried because it could be another problem more difficult to solve!

Best Regards,
Vitor S.

 

Check to see if you have any codes. I have had the same ABS/PSM failure fairly frequent. My code ( only one) says steering angle sensor problem. I have since been told that whenever you have geo work done to the suspension and steering you must use PST2 or Durametric to re-calibrate the sensor.At the time I had had some extensive realignment done but didn't know about the sensor having to be realigned.
Apparently in layman's terms if the car senses your making a turn by measuring the steering angle but your not actually making a turn it can throw an alarm.

 

His problem may be a faulty abs sensor?

 

Agree,it happened to me many times.

 

I'd put my money on blown MAF sensor. 628 FWHP requires airflow of about 575 g/sec ( ~2000kg/h ), awfully lot for stock Bosch MAF.

Bosch MAF's max massflow is 364 g/sec ( 1350 kg/h ) and max velocity it can measure is ~160 mph.
Converted to MAF housing size that is 73mm.
When placed in an 88mm housing it still "sees" 364 g/sec but the true airmass is 533 g/sec ( at 160 mph).

 

Stock 996TT MAF sensor only reads 1398.7 kg/h uncorrected raw air flow, which translates to 388.53g/s. That's also the reason why any decent stage 1 tune maxes out the sensor at around 4800-5200 RPM

 

Replace the brake pedal switch but the problem persist.

Next wednesday the car will go to Porsche garage.