Well once again Marks test kit and method found the problem really quick, the "T" between the lines off the top of the DVs was disconnected on the bottom. It must have gotten knocked when my F pipe blew off after
The last time I dug in there and didn't get it tighten down properly.

 

I thought this might be a good place to get some advice on my issue.

So I was getting P0481 and P0491 secondary air injection codes. There also was a "howling" sound when the SAI pump was running. After a little research I suspected the recirc \ cutoff \ bypass \ blow off or whatever term you want to use for them had expired. I ordered a set valves and replaced them. This fixed the issue and the codes have not been back. However now I have a similar howling sound that is intermittent and seems to be during part throttle sometimes around 2500 to 4000 rpm in gears 2-4 . If I go WOT the sound goes away. Thinking maybe I cracked something when working on the recirc valves I bought a new f-hose\ y-house and all the rubber vacuum portions around that area as well as a new check valve because it appeared cracked and all the parts were 14 years old and are prone to failure. I replaced all that and zip tied the vacuum lines in the area; got it back together and the sound still persists but has moved to the higher end of the rpm range above. Tonight I tested the recirc valves with a mity vac on the actuation side and they hold 27 inHg for over 5 min with no loss so those appear to be good. I hooked up the mity vac to where one of the recirc valves should connect to the vacuum system and tried to pull a vacuum but it must be open to atmosphere. I then started the engine and there was 20 inHg at the recirc valve pretty constantly regardless of rpm. I have attached a video that has the sound in it starting around 3 sec. The car appears to run fine and pulls hard with no codes. It is running a EVOMS 1 bar tune. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If a boost leak kit would help diagnose this please PM me and I'll gladly purchase one

*****update: The noise described above was from the replacement Kayser Cut-off \ Diverter \ Blow off valves. After fixing my boost leaks I was still getting this sound. I replaced the Kayser with EVOMS valves and zero noise now. I will be returning these valves. I also noticed with the Kayser valves let the boost spike higher on shifts. The Kayser valves did not leak from the vaccum or boost side as I checked that. I called Pelican and got a RMA for the Kayser valves***

 

Definitely couldn't hurt to do a boost leak test.

 

I would have started there rather than replace anything blindly.

 

Well I made a Menard's boost leak tester for about $15 even with a $exy gauge. My venturi tube was leaking from the rear face to the main body around the perimeter. My intake gasket leaked pretty substantially on the passenger side above 10psi. I changed old number 16 since I was in there. However hose 18 was basically welded to the old one. When removing 16 #15 t-piece got tweaked as I rotated 16 to try to get it out. I have a very small leak at 16psi on top of #45 change over valve and really am not looking forward to working on that with the crimped on oetiker clamp. My f-hose which is new was leaking to the y-pipe with the factory spring clamp at 16 psi. (with the facrtory clamp you could see it slide up the y-piece as the pressure rose) I put worm gear on it and the solved the leak. I need to order a few more parts and then button it up. You definitely need to lower the motor to track down and repair most of these leaks but it is not as big a deal as it sounds. Take the air cleaner out, disconnect the boost hoses to the y-pipe, and then put a jack under the motor and remove the motor mount nuts. You only need to lower a couple of inches to do the repairs. Car is an 02 with 54K miles.

 

Well there you go. Hopefully that solves your issues.

 

Tested my MY01 (100,000 miles) at three spots this weekend : (1) before turbos, (2) at Y pipe, and (3) at throttle body. Would not hold 5 PSI with big compressor. Almost everything was leaking as discussed here.

- DV values leaking externally (threaded nipple on EVO DV's)
- # 16 check valve (pouring air down line pre-turbo)
- cracked plastic Y- venturi tube
- boost hoses not sealing (silicone hoses installed by PO)
- turbo waste-gates leaking at rod
- brittle,cooked hoses & vacuum lines - leaking everywhere

This should be considered a "maintenance service". It would be great if one of the awesome vendors could put a kit of parts together. A mix of
OEM parts and other sources for common items (hoses, vacuum line, T's, fitting & clamps).

I ordered OEM parts today, expecting to get them in 5 days.

 

Looks like you got them all leaking.
Fix and retest.

 

Thanks for the pre-turbo testers and the guidance on this thread.

What are your thoughts on the EVO DV's. I see you have a pic on your website with an unthreaded EVO nipple. Is it ok to lock tight and seal these ?, looks like a quality piece.

Also, I'm getting leaks around the wastegate rod. Would this happen on a new wastegate at 10 psi or are the ready to be replaced ?

 

Get n710 dvs. $120 trust me.

Are ur Wgs stock ?

 

I will get the n710 DV's.

My turbos and WG's are 100% stock - 100K miles.

 

[QUOTE=Sourcerock;4527184]I will get the n710 DV's.

My turbos and WG's are 100% stock - 100K miles.[/QUOTE

Well u need oem Wgs. Set the same way with preload.

 

Hi Guys,
i did pressure test my car today and i can hear a silent his noise when the pressure gets over 14PSI from the right engine bay side.
Could be fuel pressure line or some line to the change over valve.
What do i need to remove and how to do it? some thoughts? I saw the video from u markski and u fixed the FPR. But u removed some stuff to get there...

Thx in advance

 

It seems to me in that video that the secondary air pump wasn't in the car, I might be wrong.

 

[QUOTE=MARKSKI;4527187]Hey Marek, is there a difference between the Kayser DV`s and the Bosch DV`s........I am having a hard time getting the Bosch ones
thanks Mike