The master is needed.

 

Awesome News
Keep us updating

 

ok, cool
Thanks

 

ronny what i did with mine was all oem parts to the spring. i disassembled the spring from the tt and used a lighter spring just to keep it engaged for the cruise control. new mnaster clutch fork slave and hose are all needed since the petosin out of any of the old parts will contaminate the system with the new dot 4

 

Pretty sure the GT2 master is the Boxster unit, yes? I think one member just swapped the reservoir and flushed the stock one but I'm not sure I'd do that lol.

I too run no spring, seemed to me that all it did was make the pedal vague and HARDER to push. I need to extend the clutch switch though, I have some of the lighter springs I could use too.

 

I can verify that, Hardware section, speciality drawers, 1 3/8=39mm zinq coated plug for around 3$. Directly bought the NPT plugs for the PS-Pump also

 

Ok, it seems to me that without the spring the clutch pedal will not sit in its correct position.
Hence the clutch switch will not engage/disengage properly?
Today the switch is shorted so i dont have to depress the clutch pedal to get the engine started, but this affects the cruise control, and i plan to restore this functionality.

I see from the parts diagram that there is a spring on the stock turbo, so why not just use this?

 

It always amazes me when people wanna do the GT2 clutch conversion but want to skip out on half the parts. Use all the required GT2 parts people, including the spring! Those Porsche engineers do know a thing or two actually...

 

I disagree.
The reason we are doing this conversion in the first place is because porsche enginerres f..ed up the stock part.

 

I've yet to hear anyone complain about the GT2 set up. I doubt you'll find guys with GT2s that have basterdized their set up. Seems Porsche got it right. Judging by your post above you are already running issues by skipping the GT2 assist spring when the solution is rather simple as I pointed out. It's your car, naturally do as you see fit.

Incidentally I never had any issues with the stock TT set up either but the added complexity is a downside but I understand why it was done that way considering the touring nature of the car and the target market of the TT. Most of the stuff on the TT is more complex than on the GT2/3, clutch system included.

 

My stock sprung setup was vague and I stalled it often - so did several other experienced stick drivers who drove it. Stoplight were always interesting as I had to focus on no stalling. Now with no spring it feels easier without the spring trying to pull the clutch up, the spring doesn't make it easier! Yes, the cruise switch doesn't engage at the top but the neutral start switch is fine. An extension and it ought to be fine. If and when I switch to GT2 I'll consider the spring but I can't I,aging why I'd want additional mechanical resistance pulling the pedal up in addition to the pressure plate...

 

So im done with my conversion, i used the porsche gt2 master pump, FTE/oem slave, drilled and tapped the housing.

With this i have a new luk dmfw and sachs 2,5 kit.

I used a vacuum pump to bleed the system from the slave.
After this i had a friend help to press the pedal inn and i opened the slave, this was done 10times at least.
I believe the system is properly bleed now.

When i press down the pedal the clutch disengages, but it starts engaging really fast, like half an inch or so from the bottom posititon.

Is there anyway to improve this?

 

That has to to do with the clutch setup not the slave. Only way to change engagement point is to fabricate an adjustable pedal

 

Does anyone know what this hole is for, like a window to the slave cylinder rod? I see it on GT3 and GT2s. Is it worth drilling out?

 

It looks like someone changed the transmission to use the GT2 slave instead of the OEM accumulator arrangement. Excellent idea to have an opening to allow you to hold the rod while getting the slave bolted in!