Camber, Alignment Specs & Lowering?
Camber, Alignment Specs & Lowering?
Whilst I'm playing around with my wheel offsets I'll be needing to get my car aligned and lowered
What would be the best camber and alignment specs for a road car?
I think I've seen 1/16 & 1/32 mentioned for alignment, but what about camber?
Also, how much can I lower my car with the various coilover kits?
I'm currently running 235/40 & 315/30 tyres on 18" wheels
With stock Euro suspension my car measures 26" from the floor to the top of the wheel arch (same for front and rear)
What would be the best camber and alignment specs for a road car?
I think I've seen 1/16 & 1/32 mentioned for alignment, but what about camber?
Also, how much can I lower my car with the various coilover kits?
I'm currently running 235/40 & 315/30 tyres on 18" wheels
With stock Euro suspension my car measures 26" from the floor to the top of the wheel arch (same for front and rear)
With your current tires you might be able lower it about 1/2" with the ablility to use the stock eccentrics. If you move up to wider 19" with a more radical offset or look for more drop (like and 1") you're going to have to get into some rear suspension parts (dog bones and/or adjustable rear toe links) For camber on the street I'd keep it under 1.5- degrees. Better if you can get it closer to 1.0- degree and keep toe in at a minimum. Your tires will last and it will be less darty on the street. I'm sitting at 25" and had to use the above mentioned parts to get a decent street set up. On the rear of a 996 the camber and toe move inversely with each other hence the PIA in getting the rear end set up correctly.
On a Porsche I would use a coil over system instead of just springs. The additional costs of entry level coil overs (Bilsteins) far outweights the savings of parts vs. labor. There are of course better coil over systems but if you have no intention of tracking the car the costs exceed the benefit.
On a Porsche I would use a coil over system instead of just springs. The additional costs of entry level coil overs (Bilsteins) far outweights the savings of parts vs. labor. There are of course better coil over systems but if you have no intention of tracking the car the costs exceed the benefit.
Last edited by Duane996tt; Jan 2, 2012 at 12:23 AM.
Yes Ant, they can.
The concentric bolts on the rear arms are notorious for corrosion as well. If they move first time all is well but if they dont then that's that, it can be a pain the ****.
Have a chat with James at Nine Excellence. He set up my car after a longh chat on how I drive the car so as to compliment my style of driving ( Driving Miss Daisey.lol).
Hows the corroded bolts coming on mate....any more progress.
Frank
The concentric bolts on the rear arms are notorious for corrosion as well. If they move first time all is well but if they dont then that's that, it can be a pain the ****.
Have a chat with James at Nine Excellence. He set up my car after a longh chat on how I drive the car so as to compliment my style of driving ( Driving Miss Daisey.lol).
Hows the corroded bolts coming on mate....any more progress.
Frank
Hello and Happy New Yeatr,
I run the same tire setup on set of HRE, below is my alignment spec done at GMG. Hope it helps.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1055419...55196074798594
https://picasaweb.google.com/1055419...55201020390994
Regards,
-Arman
I run the same tire setup on set of HRE, below is my alignment spec done at GMG. Hope it helps.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1055419...55196074798594
https://picasaweb.google.com/1055419...55201020390994
Regards,
-Arman
KW state their shocks will lower a Turbo 0.8"-1.5"
Is that pretty much the same for all coilovers?
Is that pretty much the same for all coilovers?
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