996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

stage 3 clutch and LWFW = high biting point?

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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 03:22 AM
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stage 3 clutch and LWFW = high biting point?

I have had the Spec stage 3 clutch (http://www.ultrarev.com/SP843.html) and spec light weight flywheel (http://www.ultrarev.com/sp69a.html) successfully installed, however the biting point (there isnt much of one with a paddle clutch anyway) is right at the final 5% of the clutch pedal at the very top... is this normal?

Its a PITA to pull away as there is no engagement feel anyway, as its very much either on or off and the lightweight flywheel means i need extra revs to pull away. the whole set up is very hard to get used to but still my only concern at the moment is the fact that to engage the clutch i need to bring my foot all the way to the top the other 95% of the pedal does nothing.

Ive been driving it for a month now and its great in gear and shifting. Its just pulling away thats extremely tricky.

Any ideas?
 
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 09:06 AM
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You could probably shorten your slave cylinder rod and drop that engagement point.
 
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 09:41 AM
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A bit late now its all together :P but yes i assumed there would be some way around it.. is this engagement point normal for my set up ?
 
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 10:00 AM
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My Spec 2+ engages pretty high as well. I'm using the stock slave rod with a GT2 slave setup. I'm pretty sure it's normal for the Spec clutches.
 
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 09:16 PM
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A bit late now its all together :P but yes i assumed there would be some way around it.. is this engagement point normal for my set up ?
rod length adjustment can be done after the fact in just a few hours - the fact that the cluch job is complete doesn't matter...
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by John@SpeedTech
rod length adjustment can be done after the fact in just a few hours - the fact that the cluch job is complete doesn't matter...
I assume to adjust the rod the slave needs taking out and the rod needs to be cut which is irreversible?
 
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 09:27 AM
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HI,,Yes that does happen...I replaced my first after market clutch with a different disc because I didnt like the feel of driving with it everyday like that....I had a thread on that,as there are many threads/posts if you do a search on clutch topics....
One thing that did help which is a cheap trick....Remove the power boost spring from the clutch pedal....This gives you a little better feel and since it gets a little bit harder clutch pedal feel you do not have the tendency of pushing the pedal all the way down...Hope this helps..
 
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by johnspeed
HI,,Yes that does happen...I replaced my first after market clutch with a different disc because I didnt like the feel of driving with it everyday like that....I had a thread on that,as there are many threads/posts if you do a search on clutch topics....
One thing that did help which is a cheap trick....Remove the power boost spring from the clutch pedal....This gives you a little better feel and since it gets a little bit harder clutch pedal feel you do not have the tendency of pushing the pedal all the way down...Hope this helps..

great advice ill take a look into doing this
 
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 09:55 AM
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I felt like the stock clutch setup on these cars grabs really high and doesn't have much feel. I did the GT2 master/slave conversion and felt like it was much improved. I also did the AWE stage 2.5 clutch and new stock flywheel after the fact but don't feel like that affected it very much.

The feel of the clutch is definitely one of the low points on this car. Makes it hard for me to launch. GT2 makes it better but not perfect, I can at least feel where it starts to grab.
 
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by John@SpeedTech
rod length adjustment can be done after the fact in just a few hours - the fact that the cluch job is complete doesn't matter...

This is exactly what I (my tech) did last week. It makes a huge difference with the triple carbon clutch/LWFW set up. Now the pedal is less than 1/3 of the throw it was before. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
 
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 10:38 AM
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I have heard good things about that mod also...But I guess you have to have a guy that knows exactly how to do it...
 
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 12:00 PM
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I assume to adjust the rod the slave needs taking out and the rod needs to be cut which is irreversible?
No, it is completely reversible and infinitely adjustable - it just requires removing it again and making an adjustment by either adding or removing some material.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 02:11 PM
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I had the same situation when I upgraded my clutch. The shop that did the work (bbi Autosport) installed a clutch stop behind the clutch pedal. This prevents the clutch from being depressed all the way to the floor. Now the travel from the point the clutch is fully depressed to the biting point is much shorter. This made a huge difference for me. Parts and labor about $125.
 
Old Jan 5, 2012 | 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by TaxGuy
I had the same situation when I upgraded my clutch. The shop that did the work (bbi Autosport) installed a clutch stop behind the clutch pedal. This prevents the clutch from being depressed all the way to the floor. Now the travel from the point the clutch is fully depressed to the biting point is much shorter. This made a huge difference for me. Parts and labor about $125.
Hmm where can i get said parts?
 
Old Jan 5, 2012 | 05:07 AM
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How much do you cut off? Im just about to have cm stage 3 clutch fitted
 


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