996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

RWD conversion question

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Old May 1, 2012 | 06:25 AM
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umm question, are you sure its your front diff and not front wheel bearings? (a known issue with the 996) i've replaced maybe 10 sets over the years. They make all kinds of noises and vibrations. Anything over 20,000 miles and they can be suspect. Also did you change the dront diff fluid lately? Just thinking of everything you can check before $$$$$$ on front diff
 
Old May 1, 2012 | 06:43 AM
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I did change the fluid, I asked the shop and they didn't think that could cause the problem also the noise doesn't change with steering direction so I tended not to think it was wheel bearings?
 
Old May 1, 2012 | 07:11 AM
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You don't lose PSM per se, but it's not a good idea to leave it on with an LSD if you are driving it hard. But from what I'm gathering that is not your style. If you are just an occasional blast up the road and don't really push the car, I don't see why just taking the AWD out would hurt.

I think Carl (MrWhite) had also found a way to run RWD without coilovers, as well, I'd ask him about setup info.

You aren't really using all of that hp on the street anyways unless your're going straight. Put some NT-01's on there and you still will hardly break traction. Keep your PSM on, take the AWD out, and I think you'll be fine. Will suck to launch though.
 
Old May 1, 2012 | 07:39 AM
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I have kw3's installed and H&R upgraded sway bars front and rear and a new set of PS2's on (315's on the rear). The car is also lowered a smidgen, corner balance ext. So it sound alike it might be okay. I hate the way the car is shimming all over when I hit it in 2nd and 3rd as it breaks lose currently, it feels quite unsettling in the drivers seat.
 

Last edited by jonty; May 1, 2012 at 07:47 AM.
Old May 1, 2012 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by DERBOOST
umm question, are you sure its your front diff and not front wheel bearings? (a known issue with the 996) i've replaced maybe 10 sets over the years. They make all kinds of noises and vibrations. Anything over 20,000 miles and they can be suspect. Also did you change the dront diff fluid lately? Just thinking of everything you can check before $$$$$$ on front diff
I will have to spend some more time on this. I have changed so much with the front of the car it is hard to tell if I am just being to sensitive. Between adding KW3's, heaver sway bars, a GT3 big brake kit, new PS2 tires, removing the trunk floor and spare to make room for the Aquamist system and the fact that the noise is very much road surface dependent I may not have a problem I just need to get used to the new sounds of the car. The suspension is quite firm and transmits a lot of vibration from the crappy chicago concrete road surfaces that are on many of the highways down here.
 
Old May 1, 2012 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jonty
I have kw3's installed and H&R upgraded sway bars front and rear and a new set of PS2's on (315's on the rear). The car is also lowered a smidgen, corner balance ext. So it sound alike it might be okay. I hate the way the car is shimming all over when I hit it in 2nd and 3rd as it breaks lose currently, it feels quite unsettling in the drivers seat.

If you don't like the unsettling feeling of traction breaking why would you even consider reducing traction? NT-01 will help a lot in that area, but they are very bad if there are any puddles around.

The KW's will help with the corner balance, but if you are not comfortable with the car breaking loose, not only should you not have so much hp, but you should stay AWD, and keep PSM on.

IMO.
 
Old May 1, 2012 | 08:45 AM
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I am fine with the car braking lose, what I don't like is the computer shuffling you around LOL coming from a 500hp 964 turbo breaking lose is just fine as long as I have some sense of control with the 996 it's all out of your hands

Do you know if you can use the gt2 tension bolt instead of breaking your axels for the stub end? P/N 99634113104 for the bolt and P/N 99908463409 for the nut ? the bolt doesn't have the splines but as long as it fits in the hole it should work as the bearing of the GT2 and the 996 are the same, or am I missing something?
 
Old May 1, 2012 | 10:54 AM
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I think a while back some people tried it and it didn't fit. So people have still been breaking them loose and recently without cutting so they can put them back together.


My advise would be to take out the center input shaft for a few weeks and give it a trial run. Taking that out only takes about 15 minutes (and most of that is getting the car up on jack stands and getting off the plastic bits). Drive it and see how you like it. If not, pop that bad boy back in and stay AWD. If so, go ahead with the full conversion.
 
Old May 1, 2012 | 02:11 PM
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When I look at the parts diagram it shire looks like the gt2 tension bolt will fit in the 996 carrier.

 
Old May 1, 2012 | 08:30 PM
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I was rear wheel drive with the front axles removed and left the turbo wheel carriers in the car. I did plenty of track and even the texas mile that way. I did add a lsd but not for sometime. I am using all gt2/3 front end parts now but only because of rotor fitment.
 
Old May 2, 2012 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Tim941NYC
I was rear wheel drive with the front axles removed and left the turbo wheel carriers in the car. I did plenty of track and even the texas mile that way. I did add a lsd but not for sometime. I am using all gt2/3 front end parts now but only because of rotor fitment.
What kind of Power are you putting down?
 
Old May 2, 2012 | 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Tim941NYC
I was rear wheel drive with the front axles removed and left the turbo wheel carriers in the car. I did plenty of track and even the texas mile that way. I did add a lsd but not for sometime. I am using all gt2/3 front end parts now but only because of rotor fitment.
How did the gt2 front uprights feel compared to the 996tt with RWD? I would love a comparison to see if it is worth it. I would imagine in daily driving you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. But hard track duty may be a different story? I do know that mikelly opted not to upgrade because for what he was running it wasn't cost effective. Which brake setup are you running?
 
Old May 2, 2012 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by heavychevy
If you don't like the unsettling feeling of traction breaking why would you even consider reducing traction? NT-01 will help a lot in that area, but they are very bad if there are any puddles around.

The KW's will help with the corner balance, but if you are not comfortable with the car breaking loose, not only should you not have so much hp, but you should stay AWD, and keep PSM on.

IMO.
The NT01s are loud as hell especially after you scrub em hard on the track. If he's complaining about the front diff being loud I'm not sure if he'd be happy with the NT01s. The noise level between them and the PS2s is night n day.
 
Old May 2, 2012 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jonty
What kind of Power are you putting down?
at the start at 720 rwhp. at last 960 rwhp. we will see soon whats coming.
 
Old May 2, 2012 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim941NYC
at the start at 720 rwhp. at last 960 rwhp. we will see soon whats coming.
Tim,
What kind of LSD are you running and what transmission cooling set up are you utilizing to extract the extra heat from the gearbox due to the LSD? Thx...
 


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