996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Need help with oil change

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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 03:30 PM
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Need help with oil change

1) do you need to jack car up in 4 places to get it level

2) where do you put jack stands if you need normal jack spots for alligator jack

3) I got a jack stand in wrong place and it popped out rubber trim and it wont go back in

4) gave up on getting anything loose except crank case oil, then maybe one quart came out?? What do it do to get rest out?

5) how much oil does it need if you only drain crank case oil?

Please help. Thanks
 
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 03:36 PM
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this diy from the moderator should help.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-m97-70-a.html
 
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 03:49 PM
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The DIY posted above should answer all your questions. Just from the top of my head:

1) In theory, yes. I only jacked it up on the passenger's rear and drained a little over 8 quarts, so I'm sure that's good enough.

2) I put one jackstand under the cross brace referenced in the link and also left my jack under the jacking point as backup

3) Not sure on that one?

4) You need to remove the drain plug for the majority of the oil to drain (see link). Be prepared for an oil waterfall.

5) There would be no point in just changing that

I also changed the filter. I'd recommend doing that if you're already changing the oil. It is super easy since it is located in the engine bay.
 
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 03:52 PM
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i would only add it isn't completely necessary to drain the turbo's of the litre or so they hold.. but if you can, you may as well.
 
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
i would only add it isn't completely necessary to drain the turbo's of the litre or so they hold.. but if you can, you may as well.
Yeah, I didn't since I forgot to order the new seals . I'll be changing oil every 5k mi (or sooner) anyway.
 
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by FI_FTW
The DIY posted above should answer all your questions. Just from the top of my head:

1) In theory, yes. I only jacked it up on the passenger's rear and drained a little over 8 quarts, so I'm sure that's good enough.

2) I put one jackstand under the cross brace referenced in the link and also left my jack under the jacking point as backup

3) Not sure on that one?

4) You need to remove the drain plug for the majority of the oil to drain (see link). Be prepared for an oil waterfall.

5) There would be no point in just changing that

I also changed the filter. I'd recommend doing that if you're already changing the oil. It is super easy since it is located in the engine bay.
thanks, but I did remove drain plug and about 1 quart came out. Does oil filter have to be off before oil will flow out?
 
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 04:02 PM
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i'm reluctant to drain the turbo's. last time i did, i got a kind of "cavitation" sound like ims rattle.. never there before. was told it was from draining them. not gonna do it again.. whatever.. lol.
 
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Edward Jones
thanks, but I did remove drain plug and about 1 quart came out. Does oil filter have to be off before oil will flow out?

I think you remove the crankcase drain plug only. There is another one on the reservoir ( forward of the engine on the right side) and be aware lots of oil will flow fast!
 
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
i'm reluctant to drain the turbo's. last time i did, i got a kind of "cavitation" sound like ims rattle.. never there before. was told it was from draining them. not gonna do it again.. whatever.. lol.
Yeah, I'm guessing the turbos don't get any oil on first startup.

And, yes the above is correct. Unlike most other cars, you need to remove two drain plugs on the 996TT. Oil filter does not have to be removed for the oil to flow btw.
 
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
i'm reluctant to drain the turbo's. last time i did, i got a kind of "cavitation" sound like ims rattle.. never there before. was told it was from draining them. not gonna do it again.. whatever.. lol.
i read were you remove a couple fuses to keep the car from starting, ie : fuel pump fuse then crank the car a few times to fill the turbos with oil then start normally to solve the cavitation issue
 
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 06:08 PM
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Here is a pic of the bottom of a 996 Turbo. On the middle center, there is the shiny crank case drain plug. This is what I think you drained based upon your description. On the lower right of the picture, there is a "j" shaped pipe going to the right, coming from the crankcase. This goes to the oil resevoir and to the right of where the bottom of the "j" goes into the tank, you can see another drain plug (Hex head). JPflip also shows this plug but directly underneath it. This also needs to be drained. Be sure to use a second wrench (I think 27 mm) on the tank itself to offset the torque of undoing the tank plug. Hope this helps. I PM'd you if you need local help. Good luck.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by rangerdick
Here is a pic of the bottom of a 996 Turbo. On the middle center, there is the shiny crank case drain plug. This is what I think you drained based upon your description. On the lower right of the picture, there is a "j" shaped pipe going to the right, coming from the crankcase. This goes to the oil resevoir and to the right of where the bottom of the "j" goes into the tank, you can see another drain plug (Hex head). JPflip also shows this plug but directly underneath it. This also needs to be drained. Be sure to use a second wrench (I think 27 mm) on the tank itself to offset the torque of undoing the tank plug. Hope this helps. I PM'd you if you need local help. Good luck.
thanks, now I get it!!! I'm not going to hassel with the turbo oil canisters. The plugs seem welded in place, an allen wrench did not seem to budge them, What do you think? Thanks again
 
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 07:25 PM
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Hi, I doubt an allen wrench will work. You will probably need allen head sockets, which are either 3/8 or 1/2 square drive with an appropriate drive bar or ratchet. Judging from your posts so far, it seems like you have alot of enthusiasm but not as much actual wrench time? Have you downloaded the shop manuals on this site? there is a wealth of information. Again, good luck.
 
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 32krazy!
i read were you remove a couple fuses to keep the car from starting, ie : fuel pump fuse then crank the car a few times to fill the turbos with oil then start normally to solve the cavitation issue
yeah, heard that too. but i(?) change the oil often enough ( about every 5k ) so, i'm not too concerned with leaving the oil in the turbos when it's changed. plus i don't diy ( embarrassed to say ) and the shop i use isn't gonna pre lube my turbos after draining 'em by pulling fuses. hell, it's all i can do to get them to fully torque down the friggin crankcase bolt after draining! ( an isolated incident, but man..was i was pissed! ). drip... drip...

i can least i can say i've been under my car with a socket wrench... once

and to further veer OT, with apologies to the OP.. man, does 0-40 get thin in this heat!? or what! man.. time to 5-40 i think...
 

Last edited by '02996ttx50; Jul 12, 2012 at 08:17 PM.
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Edward Jones
thanks, now I get it!!! I'm not going to hassel with the turbo oil canisters. The plugs seem welded in place, an allen wrench did not seem to budge them, What do you think? Thanks again
i've been told they're on there tighter than hell from the factory.. and they have probably never even been loosened or drained. porsche doesn't drain them at factory oil service. this i know. just leave 'em, once you sort out the other two drain(s).. they matter, the turbo drain plugs.. do not. overall..
 


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