I am getting an alignment done and had some questions about toe. All of the posts say to set rear to 1/16th toe in and front to 1/16th toe out. Is this total toe or individual toe? Thanks.

 

total. 1/8" total is a hell of a lot of toe, you typically only see that on dedicated race cars where the race engineer was trying to band aid some other handling issue.

 

first and foremost it depends on your driving style and tires you are going to be using and if it is street use or not.

Second it depends on your suspension in conjunction with you suspension hardware you have ( swaybars etc)

IMO, I like 1/16 toe out up front, 99% of the people on this forum said i'm crazy. BUT it does give it a much better turn in at front. You want toe in at the rear to make the car oversteer vs. understeer like it does from the factory. 1/16 is good

Camber ? What tires are you using ? Front swaybar, i have stock. Rear swaybar i have gt2 , and 2nd hole away from full stiff.

Tires tires tires.


You want a 245.35.18 up front. No question. Helps lower the front rake, and much better turn in since you have a stiffer side wall then a 40, and of course because of the lower center of gavity.

315.30.18 in the rear, no question.


if you are using r6's you want at least 2.5 up front and at least 2.0 for the rear.

 

I had my car set up for mainly track use by someone who really knows what they are doing. Here are my alignment settings.

Front Camber -3.2
Front Toe -0.02
Front Caster 6 degrees
Front Ride height 4.5"

Rear Camber -2.5
Rear Toe +0.2
Rear Ride Height 5.1"

 

I guess I should clarify. This is a street/track alignment. Not dedicated track car. I am running hankook ventus v12s , not r6s. I am RWD with H&R coilovers, rear eibach swaybar and running GT2 ride height. I want aggressive an better handling and street drive able. I understand that the front camber at 1.5 degrees and rear at 2.0 degrees camber and the front toe at 1/16" out and rear at 1/16" in should much better than stock. I just wanted somebody with a track background and an understanding of alignments to explain if the toe was total or per side.

 

As much camber as you can get in the front keeping each side equal. It seriously will not wear tires. Likely out of a semi stock front you will not get much more then -1.5 deg on each side. For a great semi aggressive front Camber on my car I go -2.3 deg each side. Toe I keep close to neutral, I do not like toe out but then again my car is not even close to stock suspension wise. But just ever so slightly toed in is a very safe easy to live with number for front toe. Lets say 0.5mm combined toe in, that also stops the car from hunting on lines and ridges in pavement. No variance per side!!!!

Rear is simple -1.9 degree camber on each wheel and 1.75mm combined toe in with no variance per side!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That is major crucial must for the back.

These number are a very decent street / track set up.

Front
Camber -1.5deg per side, more if you can get it, up to -2.5 Max
Front toe is 0.5mm combined toe in could go less right up to neutral
Castor is not adjustable

Rear
Camber -1.9deg per side I would not go less or more
Toe 1.75mm combined toe in, I would not go less but I might go as high as 2mm combined toe in.

The Camber and toe in the back really work together. These number change as the suspension articulates. These numbers in the back make for a very friendly track car that is not hard on tires.

 

1/16" is 1.59mm you can apply that to the spec's I listed above.

25.4mm in an inch / 16 = 1.5875mm

For a combined toe in of 1/16 for the rear that is not enough, if you applied that to a per side it would be WAY to much.

For the front that is a crazy amount of toe out even if it is combined.

 

Each to his own

 

I use the same settings in general as F1crazydriver does. As said here, tires make a difference along with driver preference and track conditions.

 

Go to a shop that sets up race cars. Tell them what you dont like about your car now they will put it on the machine, see what you got make a change or two send you out and then see how you like it. If not return and make some more changes. I have done plenty alignments. The biggest thing is make sure you are mirrored side to side.. Must be. Plus 1 on engine guy. I how ever use my car for "other" driving so my setup is on no use to you. As far as sidewalls go use a N1 rated tire. Sidewall is need to allow the tire to work. The cup tires are taller and are 18''= more sidewall. My car is only a set of tires and two hours (yes thats how long a precise alignment takes If not more) away from being a tract weapon. RSS lower arms with solid pucks all 4 points, RSS dog bones, TRG RSR toe arms, Torque solution solid bushings, GT 3 sways front and back, GT2 front uprights, ATS struts and hypercoil springs. I am sure there are things I am missing.

 

Yup the settings i use work great, big thanks to TCD. It really helps when the shop owner is a driver and races himself & at that, he is one of the best drivers to man handle a GT3.

When I first met Tony, he went around the car looking at my tires. He then told me my driving style and told me what i don't like and what i want, and i confirmed. It is like he was reading my mind, but just by looking at the tires. A few hours later i came back I went for a a drive... and this just on lowering springs and wow, he worked some voodoo magic. He explained to me how the 911 works specially making a turbo turn in etc. Can't say good things enough about him. Everyone in San Francisco Bay Area that goes to a track, no matter what car you own, knows who he is. That is legendary.