i am beginning to develop a sense of this. i have yet to eliminate the weight since axles and diff are still on, and all the suspension bits to do this properly are in planning stages. but i have at least just fitted the wavertac to the car and am confident this will better suit my driving style and conditions, in ways i've wanted for some time. the awd system feels "ponderous" at times, although i am sure it has saved my a** more than a cpl times. but i feel i'm ready for the rwd setup done right. i note there is a decided difference in the way the car delivers power ( ya think? lol ) just running it open diff even with the weight still there. i'll be finishing it up soon, but have to break in a clutch while i get used to this newer lsd i've just installed. but i can tell the car will be much more alive, and with luck my tail will not wag

 

I was excited to try this because I wanted to go to RWD but the original DIY had one step I wasn't comfortable with: separating the axle from the stub with a hammer. I thought it would be no problem to try this method and spread the clip and then carefully tap the axle out of the CV.
It took me about 1/2 hour to get the front diff and prop shaft out. With the right impact wrench removing the hub nut wasn't too difficult and the stub/axle assemble popped right out of each side. I thought I was going to have an easy day at this point...
Then I popped one of the axles in a vise after removing the boot and cleaning all the grease out to reveal the clip. I had every type of small needle nose, ring spreading tools, clip removal tools, anything you can think of that would be able to work that clip while tapping the axle at my disposal. I spend an hour trying to spread and tap the first axle and gave up, thinking maybe it was just stuck. No luck on the second one either after 2 hours. I tried many tools that were designed just to separate retainer clips as well as ground down small needle nose pliers from 0 to 90 degree style and NO DICE!
Finally as we all do sometimes I got out the hammer in frustration. I laid the end of the axle over a block of wood with the stub hanging freely and angled down to expose the bearing race. I gave it a good smack (wearing safety goggles of course!) at the weak points above each ball and it took me literally less than 5 minutes per side to separate the stub once the race was cracked to pieces.
To anyone attempting this...if you are not going to be reverting to AWD, or even if you are, if your clips don't cooperate don't waste hours like I did trying to fight them! Just get out your trusty hammer. As a bonus, after delicately trying to finesse a small clip out of the center of the assembly, whacking it with a hammer felt great

 

Another solution is to remove all the axles and diff without destroying anything and and change out the AWD uprights to the GT3 uprights/tension bolts. That's ultimately the best way to do it. It's about $1500 in parts and more importantly you end up with much improved front end geometry in the process. You can then sell the unmolested AWD parts. I ended up getting $2k for the diff and axles.

 

Powderhound, do you have a parts list do what you said above? I want to maintain my or shocks and H&R springs for know, but want to get more toe and camber and drop the front diff. Thank you.

 

In order to run the GT2 uprights you will need coil overs. You could probably find a cheap set of GT2 coil overs that someone has replaced with Motons, JRZs or other shocks. The uprights are not compatible with the stock TT shocks. If you want more camber then you need to get GT3 LCAs or Cup LCAs. Both will allow you to get more camber via the use of shims. Here is what you need for the upright conversion. The only thing not shown are the upper shock mounts. I would have to dig up the part numbers but any Porsche dealer can pull them for you..

[url=https://flic.kr/p/fzqFcw]

 

Thanks Pwderhound.