What's the trick or method when aligning the bolt on the bottom of a roll bar to....
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What's the trick or method when aligning the bolt on the bottom of a roll bar to....
Where the seat belt gets fastened to the chassis ? I have a RSS roll bar that attaches to the strut towers and b-pillar seatbelt bolt. I have the bar unattached from the strut towers in order to move it around to get the right alignment. I used a large pry bar to lift the roll bar up, but am still unable to line it well enough to thread the bolt threw. I sure this is a two person job which that might be the problem right there as I was installing it myself. Any tips or tricks would be great. TIA--Rob
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i had issues as well. i threaded the bolt that gave nme the most trouble first then attacked the others. i have an ap bar with removable diagonal and horizontal bars. took those out to give me some wiggle room
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I have the main hoop free right now so I can wiggle it about. Up down left or right. I suppose if I had another hand to align it then someone else thread it in would be easier. But still seems more difficult then it should....
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I have the early RSS bar. I just used some man force to get her in. Was not all that bad. If you are really stuck grid the tip of the bolt to a point to help line it up, be careful tho it will be easy to cross.
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Another good way to go instead of using a bolt at the lower seatbelt attachment point is to screw in a stud, slide on the lower roll bar barrel insert, and tighten everything with a nut. No chance to cross thread...
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My buddy and I used the push really hard method. It is tough but we got it after 10+ attempts.
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Is this the RSS 930 roll bar? I was planning on doing a DIY with pictures, but I never got around to it. Here is some quick practical information:
1) The major problem I had was that RSS did not make it clear to me that I had to trim the plastic shroud under the carpet which protects a wiring harness by the seat belt bolts. I just happened to watch the Tequipment bar install video, which shows this. I then talked to the tech at RSS and that's when I found out that you do indeed need to trim that. I first trimmed it the same as people do for the tequipment bar and tried to fit the bar again, only to realize that the plastic needed to be cut differently than the Tequipment bar, because it curves very differently. Well documented instructions on this from RSS would have saved me hours of work.
2) I also learned that you should install the passenger side seat belt bolt first because the geometry of the bar is such that this side is a little bit more stiff. The cross member connects low near the bottom of the main bar on that side, but on the driver side it connects at the top. It's like this | / |. The driver side leg can flex a bit more so you have a little more wiggle room to get that last bolt in.
3) Tie down straps can be useful. You can wrap them around the roll bar arms and use the ratchet to leverage it in to place.
4) I found it useful to take a screw driver and poke around through the seat belt mount hole on the bar in order to find the bolt hole in the frame of the car. You can feel around with it and get a good idea if you are centered before trying to get the bolt in.
Lastly, do not try to force the bolts in. The aluminum threading is very soft. After every try to get the bolt to go in, the threads on mine started getting worse and worse. Finally I used a tap to clean up the threads and got it in.
Good Luck
1) The major problem I had was that RSS did not make it clear to me that I had to trim the plastic shroud under the carpet which protects a wiring harness by the seat belt bolts. I just happened to watch the Tequipment bar install video, which shows this. I then talked to the tech at RSS and that's when I found out that you do indeed need to trim that. I first trimmed it the same as people do for the tequipment bar and tried to fit the bar again, only to realize that the plastic needed to be cut differently than the Tequipment bar, because it curves very differently. Well documented instructions on this from RSS would have saved me hours of work.
2) I also learned that you should install the passenger side seat belt bolt first because the geometry of the bar is such that this side is a little bit more stiff. The cross member connects low near the bottom of the main bar on that side, but on the driver side it connects at the top. It's like this | / |. The driver side leg can flex a bit more so you have a little more wiggle room to get that last bolt in.
3) Tie down straps can be useful. You can wrap them around the roll bar arms and use the ratchet to leverage it in to place.
4) I found it useful to take a screw driver and poke around through the seat belt mount hole on the bar in order to find the bolt hole in the frame of the car. You can feel around with it and get a good idea if you are centered before trying to get the bolt in.
Lastly, do not try to force the bolts in. The aluminum threading is very soft. After every try to get the bolt to go in, the threads on mine started getting worse and worse. Finally I used a tap to clean up the threads and got it in.
Good Luck
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Really??!!! Rob,
I had a Tequipment bar in that car, so it should already be "clearanced" for any other bar. I was able to get my bar in alone, but it is a bear. Be careful not to break or tear anything. I found it easiest to remove the rearview mirror. VERY easy to break the windshield too. Be careful.
Is this the RSS 930 roll bar? I was planning on doing a DIY with pictures, but I never got around to it. Here is some quick practical information:
1) The major problem I had was that RSS did not make it clear to me that I had to trim the plastic shroud under the carpet which protects a wiring harness by the seat belt bolts. I just happened to watch the Tequipment bar install video, which shows this. I then talked to the tech at RSS and that's when I found out that you do indeed need to trim that. I first trimmed it the same as people do for the tequipment bar and tried to fit the bar again, only to realize that the plastic needed to be cut differently than the Tequipment bar, because it curves very differently. Well documented instructions on this from RSS would have saved me hours of work.
2) I also learned that you should install the passenger side seat belt bolt first because the geometry of the bar is such that this side is a little bit more stiff. The cross member connects low near the bottom of the main bar on that side, but on the driver side it connects at the top. It's like this | / |. The driver side leg can flex a bit more so you have a little more wiggle room to get that last bolt in.
3) Tie down straps can be useful. You can wrap them around the roll bar arms and use the ratchet to leverage it in to place.
4) I found it useful to take a screw driver and poke around through the seat belt mount hole on the bar in order to find the bolt hole in the frame of the car. You can feel around with it and get a good idea if you are centered before trying to get the bolt in.
Lastly, do not try to force the bolts in. The aluminum threading is very soft. After every try to get the bolt to go in, the threads on mine started getting worse and worse. Finally I used a tap to clean up the threads and got it in.
Good Luck
1) The major problem I had was that RSS did not make it clear to me that I had to trim the plastic shroud under the carpet which protects a wiring harness by the seat belt bolts. I just happened to watch the Tequipment bar install video, which shows this. I then talked to the tech at RSS and that's when I found out that you do indeed need to trim that. I first trimmed it the same as people do for the tequipment bar and tried to fit the bar again, only to realize that the plastic needed to be cut differently than the Tequipment bar, because it curves very differently. Well documented instructions on this from RSS would have saved me hours of work.
2) I also learned that you should install the passenger side seat belt bolt first because the geometry of the bar is such that this side is a little bit more stiff. The cross member connects low near the bottom of the main bar on that side, but on the driver side it connects at the top. It's like this | / |. The driver side leg can flex a bit more so you have a little more wiggle room to get that last bolt in.
3) Tie down straps can be useful. You can wrap them around the roll bar arms and use the ratchet to leverage it in to place.
4) I found it useful to take a screw driver and poke around through the seat belt mount hole on the bar in order to find the bolt hole in the frame of the car. You can feel around with it and get a good idea if you are centered before trying to get the bolt in.
Lastly, do not try to force the bolts in. The aluminum threading is very soft. After every try to get the bolt to go in, the threads on mine started getting worse and worse. Finally I used a tap to clean up the threads and got it in.
Good Luck
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Finally had a chance tonight to mess with it again tonight. I guess there really was no "trick" but lining up that bolt is in my opinion a two person job. Other than that the two hour claim is very accurate with this bar! From watching the tequiptment instal video , this bar is MUCH easier to install.
Thanks to all that chimed in and a big thanks to RSS for PM'ing me and then emailing me, without me asking them. I bought this bar second hand and found it really cool for them to go out if there way to send me off some directions.
Thanks to all that chimed in and a big thanks to RSS for PM'ing me and then emailing me, without me asking them. I bought this bar second hand and found it really cool for them to go out if there way to send me off some directions.
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