The modulation was terrible on the first CM with the stage 3 disc,, then I replaced it with the stage 2 disc which helped just enough with the clutch pedal booster spring removed to make it livable..
But I did alot of Dynoing with that one in and I do full throttle power shifts alot. So it started to slip. I did make past threads on all my experiences..
When I need a new clutch next time I will go right to that dual or triple disc set up and be done with it..,

 

I'm on clutch master stage 2 with LWFW and it is very twitchy....I've had numerous stall starts with this clutch. I'm running 550+ awhp and with a AR Design exhaust it is hard to feel/hear engagement point. Part of me wished I had gotten the DMFW ... Maybe when this one wears down.

 

I would this simple trick to make it feel better,,
Remove the clutch pedal booster spring...there are a few threads on it and everyone that did it was glad...

 

GT2 Slave conversion was done at the same time. Can't get any more play on the rod ...

 

That spring trick has nothing to do with the rod,,
Its the feel of the clutch pedal for better modulation..

 

I'll have to take a look then. That would make my life a little easier on a hill start

 

I'm trying a spec stage 2+ Ill post up my results after it is broken in. Only costs around 800.

 

What kind of hp are you making?

 

18g billets on 91 octane, so I guess 530 @ wheels. Trying to get protomotive tning right now.

 

Did this include the alignment tool, plus the throwout and pilot bearings?

What is the torque handling capacity?

Later, Steve

 

No pilot bearing but it does come w throwout and tool. 670 rating. Got good review from the two people on this site that have it.