Has anyone replaced the rubber rear subframe bushing with the solid ones? Is it something pretty straight that can be done with the car on jackstands and normal tools? I'm out of town and don't have the car to look at to see what I'm up against.

Thx..

 

I'd Like to know as well. iirc Tim, did a write up on this??

 

I emailed Tim but haven't heard back yet. I'll have the bushings this week and will report on the install this weekend. I think it should be pretty straight forward actually..

 

Im almost certain there was a DIY or at least instructions posted on this forum somewhere. I punked out and had my setup crew do it.

 

I looked but couldn't find anything. I'll see how it goes this weekend as my LCAs will be removed. I'm pretty sure it should be doable. On a side note, after you had yours done did you notice a diffence in the handling? How about extra noise, harshness, etc? It shouldn't be bad since the GT2/3s have solid bushings and they're fine..

 

Bump for info. I have the same question, can the solid rear subframe bushings be installed without removing the rear axles, brakes and wheel carrier?

*Edit* Post #12 here suggests it is possible https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...m-details.html

 

Don't even bother doing it with the subframes in the car. I installed the Tarett solid bushing this spring. The easiest way to do it is to unbolt the upper rear shock towers from the body, unbolt the calipers and hang them in the wheel well, disconnect the parking brake cable, disconnect the axles, and then drop the complete rear subframe from the car. With a 4 post lift it's easy as you can just raise the car off the rear subframe. Once you have it removed the bushings are easily accessible. The ones on my car were basically pressed into the subframes and it took some work with air tool to literally chisel them free. Several of them came out easy, but 3 of them took a lot of persuasion. I would say it's about 4-6 hours of labor to do this plus alignment.

With that said, it's a worthwhile addition to a track car. For a street car, I don't see the point. There is no additional NVH I can perceive on my car from the bushings but everything is monoball on my car already. It does raise the subframes relative to the body of the car about 5mm so it does help correct the geometry on lowered cars. It's a good mod for heavily tracked cars but I doubt you'd be able to tell much if any difference on a street car.

 

i was about to do it, and the track prep shop i use advised me against it for the nvh on a dual duty street car. said it wasn't worth it ( whatever that means ) and i took their word for it. i feel i have enough nvh now and the solids bushings in the rear weren't going to see me any discernible benefit on a daily basis...

btw this with engine out so changing them out would've been a cpl hours extra max.

 

There is no added NVH whatsoever Mark. At least on my car I could not tell any difference at all and my exhaust is relatively quiet. I do agree that on a street car you won't be able to see any discernible benefit especially if you have rubber bushings elsewhere in the suspension. My guess is that any subframe deflection won't be evident until you start pulling high enough G loadings that won't normally be possible with street tires.

 

i fully understand that john, but you are using your track ready fully modded car as a reference point.

no argument, BUT.. if you exchange solid rear sub frame bushing on a stock TT!?! c'mon bro. you're gonna FEEL/HEAR it

your car ain't an every day tt. nor does it drive with everyday "noise" but rather drives ( and i am SURE feels ) like a fully modified tt. added nvh is a huge component and result of the difference!

 

Like I said above, in my car I could tell no difference but everything is monoball already. I don't know if there would be much diffence on a TT with a stock rubber suspension but again I don't see a point to doing solid subframe bushings if you have stock suspension. I still don't think it would be much difference though as a GT2/3 is not much louder or harsher than a TT with simple coil overs.

 

Hey Mark, listen to John, really don't think there is any N or H of NVH added, some vibration(V) but in a good way, as in road-feel, you can read the surface better.
Think of it this way, the front end is mounted direct to body...
Cheers,
Rob

 

two points:

i run MO30's with lowering springs, and while bilstein is certainly an oem supplier, i'm not sure my suspension would be considered stock.

and also, when i had engine out and was installing the tbd lsd i was considering what else might tighten up the car and provide more genuine feedback, and it was i that then asked about switching out the rear sub frame bushings, toward that end. i decided against it, as my car is not a dedicated track car and it rides fairly stiffly as it is on the street. when i'm doing with the car what it was built for, its controlled madness, and the added noise/vibration would be superfluous and just part of the trade off/joy.

 

rob, its too late! i'm not taking engine out again, just to add some ( non ) noise lol but thanks!

john is a guru far as I'm concerned, but having said that, whats right for his car might not be right for mine, and it's usage. though I'm SURE i coulda lived with the solids in the same way i COULD live with cup cables..straight cut gears, well...?? i dunno lol

add" knowing what i know of johns car?! I'm only surprised he hasn't switched them already! lol

 

I did the solid mount upgrade on my 993 and there was zero added NVH. Highly recommended.

Thanks for confirming that the installation isn't a two drink garage job.