Spoiler Thread - With a difference
I wrapped the screw thread with strands of CF and made sure it was covered with resin, then filled the container with folded CF cloth filled with resin. I then stuffed as much cloth sheets into the container as I could squeeze in there. The trick is to ensure there is no air anywhere in the block - very important (specially around the screw!). After doing it, I was wondering if a block of resin alone would be strong enough - and I'm betting it probably would, but I didn't want to take the chance at the time. I wrapped the outside with another layer of CF and resin to make sure that would keep the whole block together. It also made it look better.
Very nice fix.
I had a friend that worked at Hercules Aerospace years ago and they made all kinds of stuff from CF. At the time as I remember everything had to cooked in an autoclave and the whole process was something one could not do at home. I think maybe they spun their own CF and it may have been wound around forms. This was may 20 years ago.
I had a friend that worked at Hercules Aerospace years ago and they made all kinds of stuff from CF. At the time as I remember everything had to cooked in an autoclave and the whole process was something one could not do at home. I think maybe they spun their own CF and it may have been wound around forms. This was may 20 years ago.
When there is a damage on a flight control per example you cannot put the control surface in an autoclave because this tool is simply not available to every airline... So we use a method of bagging and applying heat locally. Bagging is to be able to connect a suction line and get all the air out of the repair area….
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Out_of_autoclave_composite_manufacturing
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Out_of_autoclave_composite_manufacturing
Last edited by jpflip; Jan 1, 2014 at 01:45 PM.
Spoiler Thread
Thanks Slider. I was wondering the same thing, i.e.,using only resin. Do you think it would be strong enough if the resin block was sized to be a 1/4 of an inch smaller on all sides than the original block and then rapped with CF cloth to bring it to the final diamentions?
Thanks for your opinion. It's got my curiosity up now so I'm going to give it try as soon as I can find a little time to make it and put it all back together. I'll follow-up with the outcome.
All the best to you and all of the 6speeders online for a prosperous and safe New Year!
All the best to you and all of the 6speeders online for a prosperous and safe New Year!
When the screw is retracting what keeps the piston rods in the CF block? When installed I believe the springs in the wings will push the piston rods into the block.
However, when filling the system and venting the manual indicates to place the tube ends in oil and reverse polarity to draw the oil into the lines.
If there is no spring pressure I don't understand what would move piston when the screw is retracting? Are the piston rods pressed into the block?
Edit...I bet the piston rods are suppose to be glued into the block.
However, when filling the system and venting the manual indicates to place the tube ends in oil and reverse polarity to draw the oil into the lines.
If there is no spring pressure I don't understand what would move piston when the screw is retracting? Are the piston rods pressed into the block?
Edit...I bet the piston rods are suppose to be glued into the block.
Last edited by Punko; Apr 19, 2014 at 06:16 PM.
I have always just filled the system with everything assembled. Fill the wing rams and the cylinders by removing the hydraulic lines between the assembled pump unit and the wing rams and then pouring hydraulic fluid into the open ends. Put back together and operate the wing up and down a few times - repeat as necessary. It really doesn't have to be perfect for the wing to operate properly. When my wing started failing one of the cylinders was only half full.
I may have to try to repair the block.
The thread looks like it may be a special buttress style, typically used for drive screws. Not 1/2-13 or M12-1.75.
The rods are definitely pressed into the block....can't get them apart now.
The thread looks like it may be a special buttress style, typically used for drive screws. Not 1/2-13 or M12-1.75.
The rods are definitely pressed into the block....can't get them apart now.
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