PSM/ABS Light
100%. i've been leaning toward upping to the proto maf-less tune for the same reasons.. BUT it's hard to justify it, given the only discernable downside to my cargraphic tune is an *occasional* blown ( 75$ lol ) maf. while a new proto tune is 1500/2k, easy.
So I decided to try and trouble shoot one more time before I take it to my buddy to get the codes read. Purchase a tamper proof T20 set as I had the ordinary set and the electrical cleaner. Took me all of 5 mins to remove the MAF, clean it and then re-install. Took it for a drive and so far no more ABS kicking in at low speeds but we shall see tomorrow on a longer drive.
Thanks for all the feedback so far.
Thanks for all the feedback so far.
I've had mixed results cleaning my mafs but have extended the life on several occasions and its nice to save when you can. Cleaning the electrical connections especially on my older cars have solved a lot of problems. Lets hope your fix holds. .
So I decided to try and trouble shoot one more time before I take it to my buddy to get the codes read. Purchase a tamper proof T20 set as I had the ordinary set and the electrical cleaner. Took me all of 5 mins to remove the MAF, clean it and then re-install. Took it for a drive and so far no more ABS kicking in at low speeds but we shall see tomorrow on a longer drive.
Thanks for all the feedback so far.
Thanks for all the feedback so far.
Trust me its your MAF. I deal with it alot also.
On these cars the ABS/PSM lights are like the Microsoft "System Error". It can be many things you really need a code to get you headed in the right direction. I hope your MAF fix works!
Ok. Lights came back on, so I assumed it was the MAF this time. Took the MAF out and cleaned it. No more lights but the car is sputtering at high RPM's especially in 2nd. Is this a sign that the MAF is toast? Is there a way to test it?
Do you have durametric ?
Unplugged the MAF and drove perfectly haha. Guess I need a new one.
I've had the sputtering and the lights on a couple of different issues. Once it was a coil and the other time it was a boost leak. If I had replaced the MAF each time it would have been a real waste of money. I actually still have the MAF I bought the first time when people said that it must be the MAF. When I found the real problem, I put the old MAF back - the new one is in the box and ready for when my MAF really fails.
I've had the sputtering and the lights on a couple of different issues. Once it was a coil and the other time it was a boost leak. If I had replaced the MAF each time it would have been a real waste of money. I actually still have the MAF I bought the first time when people said that it must be the MAF. When I found the real problem, I put the old MAF back - the new one is in the box and ready for when my MAF really fails.
For me, idling was fine so unplugging the MAF didn't make any difference. I had trouble at higher RPM and with the MAF unplugged the engine didn't run well at all when I increased RPM. Even now, with everything running great, if I unplug the MAF the engine will not run at higher RPM. I don't know how the other posters are able to do it.




