996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

PSM/ABS Light

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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rxbike
I hear you, that's why I ended up with going with the Hitachi MAF with my tune. The hitachi was about the price of a 2-3 Bosch MAF so the switch was almost natural.
100%. i've been leaning toward upping to the proto maf-less tune for the same reasons.. BUT it's hard to justify it, given the only discernable downside to my cargraphic tune is an *occasional* blown ( 75$ lol ) maf. while a new proto tune is 1500/2k, easy.
 
Old Aug 31, 2013 | 11:30 PM
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So I decided to try and trouble shoot one more time before I take it to my buddy to get the codes read. Purchase a tamper proof T20 set as I had the ordinary set and the electrical cleaner. Took me all of 5 mins to remove the MAF, clean it and then re-install. Took it for a drive and so far no more ABS kicking in at low speeds but we shall see tomorrow on a longer drive.

Thanks for all the feedback so far.
 
Old Sep 1, 2013 | 06:39 AM
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I've had mixed results cleaning my mafs but have extended the life on several occasions and its nice to save when you can. Cleaning the electrical connections especially on my older cars have solved a lot of problems. Lets hope your fix holds. .
 
Old Sep 1, 2013 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Urban
So I decided to try and trouble shoot one more time before I take it to my buddy to get the codes read. Purchase a tamper proof T20 set as I had the ordinary set and the electrical cleaner. Took me all of 5 mins to remove the MAF, clean it and then re-install. Took it for a drive and so far no more ABS kicking in at low speeds but we shall see tomorrow on a longer drive.

Thanks for all the feedback so far.

Trust me its your MAF. I deal with it alot also.
 
Old Sep 1, 2013 | 10:27 PM
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On these cars the ABS/PSM lights are like the Microsoft "System Error". It can be many things you really need a code to get you headed in the right direction. I hope your MAF fix works!
 
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 07:48 PM
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Ok. Lights came back on, so I assumed it was the MAF this time. Took the MAF out and cleaned it. No more lights but the car is sputtering at high RPM's especially in 2nd. Is this a sign that the MAF is toast? Is there a way to test it?
 
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 07:53 PM
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I would replace it amazon has good price.
 
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by scsponger31
Ok. Lights came back on, so I assumed it was the MAF this time. Took the MAF out and cleaned it. No more lights but the car is sputtering at high RPM's especially in 2nd. Is this a sign that the MAF is toast? Is there a way to test it?
Unplug MAF, PSM/ABS lights will be on, go drive it see if its still sputtering. If not then most likely MAF, if still sputtering, there may be more...Any CEL ?
Do you have durametric ?
 
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by rxbike
Unplug MAF, PSM/ABS lights will be on, go drive it see if its still sputtering. If not then most likely MAF, if still sputtering, there may be more...Any CEL ?
Do you have durametric ?
No CEL.

Unplugged the MAF and drove perfectly haha. Guess I need a new one.
 
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 10:26 PM
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I've had the sputtering and the lights on a couple of different issues. Once it was a coil and the other time it was a boost leak. If I had replaced the MAF each time it would have been a real waste of money. I actually still have the MAF I bought the first time when people said that it must be the MAF. When I found the real problem, I put the old MAF back - the new one is in the box and ready for when my MAF really fails.
 
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Slider
I've had the sputtering and the lights on a couple of different issues. Once it was a coil and the other time it was a boost leak. If I had replaced the MAF each time it would have been a real waste of money. I actually still have the MAF I bought the first time when people said that it must be the MAF. When I found the real problem, I put the old MAF back - the new one is in the box and ready for when my MAF really fails.
Would the symptoms (other than the lights) go away when you unplugged you MAF? The coils and plugs were replaced about 6000 miles ago, so I hope that is not the issue. Boost holds strong at 1 bar.
 
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 11:10 PM
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by scsponger31
Mixed reviews on the eBay ones. Some work, some don't. I didn't want to chance it and bought a OEM one on Amazon. $160. Not bad.
 
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by scsponger31
Would the symptoms (other than the lights) go away when you unplugged you MAF? The coils and plugs were replaced about 6000 miles ago, so I hope that is not the issue. Boost holds strong at 1 bar.
For me, idling was fine so unplugging the MAF didn't make any difference. I had trouble at higher RPM and with the MAF unplugged the engine didn't run well at all when I increased RPM. Even now, with everything running great, if I unplug the MAF the engine will not run at higher RPM. I don't know how the other posters are able to do it.
 
Old Sep 17, 2013 | 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by scsponger31
I asked the same question on page 2 of this thread LOL!!
 


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