No, sorry I was kind of talking about two scenarios but didn't seperate them well enough.

A) One way of failing OBDII emissions scan is by having a physically bad Cat or O2 sensor. If this is the case, then yes, most of the time you will have a CEL light, and with a code scanner, you will certainly pick up a code. Sometimes in the early stages, or just slightly out of whack, you can have a "soft code". I.e. on the code scanner but not a CEL.

B) If you have failed to complete a "drive cycle" since any codes were previously cleared. Then it will cause the OBDII to fail based on readiness as the sensors have not completed a full scan to determine if they meet emission requirements.

It sounds like you failed based on "readiness" not because of a "failed cat efficiency reading".

Even though you say you didn't clear anything or reset anything, just to be certain (if it were me). I would clear the codes via OBDII (if you can) and then disconnect each battery terminal and touch them together to discharge the system for a fresh restart. Then complete a full drive-cycle (anywhere from 150-250 miles usually (on the rare occasion can be a bit more). You won't be able to actually know if you've completed it without a durametric cable as most the generic off the shelf OBD scanners only read codes, not "readiness".

At this point, you should either get a code on any scanner for failed cat/o2/etc, or should be able to pass emissions fine.

 

its possible the tune has the rear cats turned off causing the failure. i dont know if thats the protocall for epl as i have their tune and passed emissions with no issues.

 

I've got a generic scanner, and plan on plugging it in tonight when I get home. I'm guessing I have the same issue as described here:

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...lp-please.html

so hopefully EPL can come through for me as well.

 

that drive cycle reset protocol listed in the linked thread will work in as few as 20 miles. last time i had to smog in ca i had cels. cleared them with the obd reader. did the reset, and passed. you want to do this BEFORE you hook up the sniffer or they plug in the testing obd or else you get failed for that day.


Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop.
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins.

 

So plugging in my OBD2 reader revealed pretty much what I expected, cat and o2 heater readiness aren't set. Unless unplugging the sensors to swap the exhaust caused the ECU to reset those states, I'm guessing it's gotta be the tune, since I haven't done anything else to the car since buying it, and I've put about 600 miles on it since my purchase.

Hopefully EPL gets back to me tomorrow and can help me out.

 

Do you know Mr White?

 

^maybe. I suggest you tread lightly.

 

Update: EPL is sending me a cable to help me out with the tune, so that's awesome. Should have it ready to inspect next week. Props to them!

On to the shifter/clutch issues:

Does anyone in the DFW area have the shifter alignment tool that I could borrow? I'm looking at picking up a 997 assembly, but it's a takeoff and doesn't come with the tool.

From what I've read, the easiest test for me to determine if I need a new slave cylinder vs just accumulator is to start the car, let it idle for ~20 sec w/o touching anything, turn it off, pump the clutch a few times, and watch for fluid migration via the front reservoir filling up? Anything else I can/should do before pulling the trigger on a $400 part?

 

*usually*? when the slave goes.. there's pentosin leaking.

 

Yup, just popped the frunk and saw some wetness on the driver's side plastic panel next to the battery. If that's not pentosin leaking from the front reservoir I don't know what else it could be. Sounds like I'll be ordering a big ol' mess of parts tonight (yay).

 

Nope,, not always,, we went through this on past threads.. ;-)

 

we have indeed but it appears he has found the culprit. i remember seeing that front reservoir puking all over the front liner and feeling ill lol

empathy to the op

 

don't feel too bad. I don't think the slave job will be the easiest thing in the world but I'd already mentally budgeted for the inevitable frustration

 

don't worry, i won't slaves and accumulators are simply part of the "joy"
welcome to "it". at least you can diy sounds like? if so? make friends w 32crazy lol

 

Update:

New slave and accumulator installed. Clutch is MUCH lighter even while moving, clutch engagement is definitely more consistent although still not amazing. Gear engagements are slightly better. Took me all damn weekend, because baby . Of course I also inspected the trans mount while I was in there. Compressing the slave while locating the first bolt was kind of a pain, and of course the accumulator was installed a over 9000 lb/ft so that was fun (pro tip, harbor freight sells a set of service wrenches with a perfect 27mm, but it's like $45 before coupon).

Also installed 997 shifter. Throws are definitely longer than the B&M unit that came with the car, but I like the smoothness and slightly more solid feel in your hand. I still think the cables need adjusting though. The "lefty-righty" (porsche technical term) cable is probably the culprit, as it feels like mostly 3rd and 4th are the problem slots. Thankfully my alignment tool should be in soon and I can see how far off the current setup is!