Congrats on your new Toy!

I am currently waiting for mine to be shipped to me. 01 996turbo Tech art kit, exhaust ect. San Antonio area. Silver as well! I cant wait

 

^ congrats to you as well. Hope you like it!

And thanks Tim941NYC! Adjusted the cables tonight and the shifter goes into gear much more easliy, no denials like I was having in 3rd and occasionally 4th before. Snychros still feel a bit hesitant at times, and I never force the shift, but it's like night and day since before my "overhaul." I'm thinking a fluid change will fix the last bit of hesitation.

Speaking of cable adjustment and using the tool, has anyone that's got the 997 shifter assembly noticed that the "lefty-righty" (blue) cable was barely attached to the shifter when adjusted with the tool? That is to say, when the tool was locked in to the assembly, the black cable fit pretty far in the receiving groove, but for the blue cable I actually had to pull the shift lever a tiny bit towards me to get past the non-threaded collar on the groove of the receiver and fit inside. Shift action is improved over what it was pre-adjustment, so I'm not too worried, just wondered what other people that did the upgrade experienced.

 

Is it ok to drive when the Slave and accumulator are bad? It will be a week or so before I can get into the shop. I'm Keeping an eye on the fluid

 

i'm pretty sure epl tunes can force readiness, they did that for me a while back, but then MA changed the testing procedure and they clear the readiness, and if the o2 is still showing its ready without having to go through a drive cycle they know you are cheating, MA sucks !

 

I got the tune all sorted out through EPL. They were great to work with, just had to buy a cable.

I would say you *can* drive the car with a bad slave, but depending on the degree of failure you might want to keep it off the road if you can. If the piston in the slave cylinder isn't pushing the clutch fork in all the way you might have engagement issues with the transmission. I think I was experiencing a bit of that before I changed mine out.

Of course I also drove the car ~600 mi back home, so it's not like it was undriveable.

 

best way i can answer that would be:

yes, you can drive with a faulty/failing accumulator with little more discernable symptoms than a stiff clutch pedal at startup. normal driving should not be affected although sometimes with a faulty accumulator there are engagement issues and "notchiness" or the point of engagement of the clutch is inconsistent.. also, the slave failing is imminent as well once the accumulator goes but that isn't for certain. it's just that they are interrelated in their operation since the system shares pentosin.

therein lies the problem. driving the car with a failing slave is dicey and will end up with your car puking ch11s either from the front reservoir or if the slave FAILS under the center/rear of the car. you're on the right course. change the accumulator at first opportunity and check the slave, although conventional wisdom suggests changing both the slave and accumulator simultaneously as the more prudent course of action.

either way. common and relatively *minor* issues, and part of the joy of ownership. hope that helps.

 

Great thanks! It shouldn't to much longer till I can get into the shop. My new accumulator and slave showed up this morning.

 

you'll be good as new. i actually don't mind the occasional problems that are known to us. it's the UNusual ones that get me! GL w it