Hey everyone!

I just picked up my new to me '02 arctic silver TT and so far I'm really enjoying it. I picked up the car on friday and spent most of that day getting it home, getting to know the car. Other than the drone from the aftermarket exhaust (more on that later) it really soaks up the miles. 26+ mpg too!

So on to my questions:

1.) I'm reasonably sure I need my clutch slave and accumulator replaced. Symptoms are the obvious stiff clutch with the car off (seems almost instantaneous, no wait needed) and a notchier gear selection across the board.
1a.) Does anyone in the DFW area have a car with the GT2 slave conversion? I'm curious to see what it feels like.
1c.) what's the best place to buy OE parts online? Does anyone make a replacement clutch slave that's not so prone to failing?

2.) Anyone have any idea what exhaust this is?



Sorry for the potato phone pics, I can take better ones, or of specific things tomorrow.
Work order for the install says it's a Tubi, but there's no stamping or logo anywhere on the set. Quality looks good, but I don't know for sure what it is!

3.) car has an EPL tune on it currently, and I believe it was tuned assuming the exhaust is present. I have the stocker on currently, is it dangerous to drive the car like this, even if I keep my foot out of it? should I just monitor sensor data until I can get it retuned?

The car's still pretty dirty inside and out so I haven't taken any good pics yet (plus it's a mostly stock silver turbo, what's exciting about that? ) Here's the one picture I've taken of the car so far, taken outside my friend Walt's house:

 

only slave available is the oem setup or go gt2.
looks like tubi exhaust. no need to retune if you went back to oem but there may be a slight power loss

 

The clutch feel with the GT2 conversion really allows you to feel the engagement 100x better. The clutch is harder to push in but not unbearable at all.

 

thats not a Tubi exhaust.. seen it sold for years under different names ( if it was a FVD or cargraphics if would have a tag), but that one is seems like its the cheap asian imitation...
just from what I see..

 

Welcome and congratulations on your purchase. Can't wait to see a few more pictures of the beast when you get a chance. As far as OE parts, we should be able to get anything you might need and if you can't find it, just PM me and I'll find it for you. For more information on the Slave Cylinder Click Here.

 

Hi,, Welcome and Enjoy your car and the site.
That is not a Tubi exhaust, maybe a Fabspeed?

 

Dude,

IS this really the Breaking Bad house???

 

Haha, someone noticed! I picked up the car in ABQ so... how could I not?!

Thanks for the replies everyone. Can anyone confirm that the gear selection issues would be from a defective slave cylinder? the car came with a B&M shifter as well, but I've driven cars with the same setup and they didn't feel like this.

 

What part of DFW are you in? I'd say we get a group together for lunch or something.

 

Richardson area. I'd be down for a lunch sometime, sure.

New day, new questions! So over the weekend I put the stock exhaust back on the car. Just now I took the car in to be inspected and it failed because the cat/o2/heater/etc status wasn't ready. Does unplugging the o2 sensors cause the car to reset the readiness state? I didn't start the car with the sensors disconnected (although I didn't disconnect the battery or anything for the install), and I don't have a check engine light on. How long does it take for the ECU to set the status to ready? Any other ideas on what could be going on if it's not unplugging the connectors?

 

If it's a code that you need to clear you'll probably need to use a cable, or disconnecting both battery leads and touching them together should rest the codes and discharge the system (I'd leave it unplugged for 10-15min for good measure though). But you'd most likely only need to clear the codes if you failed due to no cats or a bad cat.

The O2 codes are based on a "readiness" setting and that can only be achieved by a full "drive cycle", i.e. you need to drive it for ~200miles in various driving conditions for it to do a full scan and reset. If you hadn't completed a drive cycle since the codes were cleared, or if they failed from bad cats, then that would explain why you failed because of the readiness state.

 

I'm new to the porsche world, but if I had a code stored somewhere that would cause me to fail an OBD2 emissions test, wouldn't I also have a CEL? (light comes on during test sequence, so I know it works). I also have a Brockway engineering OBD2 gauge that shows 0 stored codes, so I don't *think* I have any.

Are you saying it's possible to have the ECU read that the cats are bad but not store a code and just not set the readiness state?

 

Could be the tune also.

 

sounds like that's the case here. I've been doing some internet research and it seems like the EPL tunes can prevent the readiness states from being set. Is there an EPL rep on these boards?

 

I don't think any tune can alter the readiness state of the sensors. Readiness is built in to prevent owners from clearing codes just prior to testing and get it pass the smog folks. Most readiness require that the car having been driven either adequate miles or warm up cycles to be ready. Go drive the car a little bit and cycle the ignition 5-6 times and have the smog center or if you have a generic OBD II scanner, you can plug in to see I/M readiness status