Hey guys,
I have read a few threads regarding this already but just wanted a very quick answer to confirm everything regarding my 2005 Porsche 911 turbo

1) My mechanic will have the car on Monday and I wanted to try and run it as rear wheel drive, what is the easiest and safest method for this? removing the drive shaft?

2) clutch pedal is very hard to press now, is there a simple fix for the pressure accumulator or slave cylinder? is there a easy method to bypass the hydraulic clutch system and use a old fashioned system like every other car?

I look forward to your replies, thank in advance.

remove the front halfshafts and the front diff. your now rear wheel drive. that simple if you just want to try it first remove the cardon shaft from the front of the trans.

drill the trans for the gt2 slave conversion and buy the needed parts thru pelican. i spent 512$ shipped for all i needed and did it myself

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...onversion.html

thank you for the quick reply

If I simply would like to try rear wheel drive for a week or so is it safe enough just to remove the front shaft from the transmission? or the longer process of removing all the shafts leading from the rear, the front diff and the front half shafts?

regarding the GT2 mod, from having a quick look at the page I gather gearbox and engine must be removed for this mod?

is there another method which does not involve taking out the gearbox?

and lastly is there a way to simply repair the pressure accumulator or is it a part that just needs to be replaced on regular basis? I hope there is nothing wrong with the clutch slave cylinder, worst case scenario it turns out to be leaking (thus causing the hard clutch pedal feel) can this be fixed or needs to be replaced?

THANKS AGAIN

replies listed above in red

I have one last question

Axle ramp, when the wheels loose traction I seem to get a lot of axle/suspension shutter, I have faced this issue with almost every car I owned and never found a perfect fix, I have narrowed it down to the fact the wheel and tyre size is very large, and the stiff suspension wont help either,

Is there anything Porsche owners do in order to solve this issue?

awd or rwd? when i was awd and launched my car hard i woud get front wheel shudder. on rwd i have broken an axle and learned to feel the difference between a spin and a shudder. if im wheel hopping i have to back out of the throttle to stop it.

softer suspension in the rear will help i also inc the air pressure until i stop hopping and start spinning, then back it down 1 psi until i get a happy medium between them.
spinning is ok wheel hop = breakage
im also a hard launcher. 4500 rpm and drop the hammer at the line. many will slip the clutch and sacrifice the 60 ft times in hopes of running faster on the back half. what they actually end up with is a 10 sec car that runs 11 or a 9 sec car that runs 10's

in awd in the wet or dry, I get massive shudder mainly from the front, I am trying to eliminate this, I know the tyre size and width plays a crucial role in this issue, I will try rwd next week and keep you posted if its the same shudder/wheel hop issue or good old fashioned wheel spin

I assume a very high tyre pressure could stop the shudder, 40-50psi ?

This is my first Porsche and I only had the car for a month so I am still learning, once I get the clutch pressure accumulator replaced I will test how it launches, but I am guessing that it will hop/shudder there is no way to modify the stock suspension and soften it a little without replacing the springs?

when you say your getting a shudder are you launching the car hard or merely driving it? if you launching it it could be the front drive trying to catch the rear. if its during normal driving it could be low viscous fluid, a bad bearing or some other issue.

raising the tire pressure will help but its not a daily fix. thats simply an old drag racer trick to reduce the rolling mass a bit by upping the tire pressure up front. at 50 psi your overinflating most tires

the shudder comes from when I launch the car hard, or full throttle in the wet (mainly on straight runs it will shudder, when going sideways its better)

I will change it to rear wheel drive in the next few days and see how that goes,

by the way is there any quick methods on running more boost pressure? I know if I manually up the boost pressure from stock 0.6-0.7 to 1bar I will need extra fuel intake to compensate for this, I don't suppose the ecu will remap itself to once it senses more boost pressure.?

This sounds like psm (traction control) kicking in.

It's turned off, never drive the car with it switched on

Ok so I replaced the pressure accumulator for for the clutch and the pedal is back to normal... BUT... on random occasions the it return to its broken state, meaning the pedal is very hard to press and this goes away after a while... it has plenty of fluid and nothing is leaking so I have no idea what else could solve this???


I have also tried RWD mode (removed the shaft from the trans to front dif) and ran into a few issues... speeds above 80km/h began to cause vibrations... the faster I went the more the car vibrated - this came from around the area where the shaft was removed - I am guessing it was the front dif making all the vibrations?

for a more permanent RWD solution I understand I need to remove the front dif and the front half shafts... once these removed what needs to be attached in their place?

And last and most important question, I tried RWD in hopes it will fix the bouncing/shudder when loosing tractions (worst is in the wet - wheels do not skid but rather trap ) but this made it even worse, when I tried a line lock in the wet all I got is shudder / wheel hopping, drifting around a corner in the wet was only a little better...

what can I do to make the car drift power slide perform line locks or burnouts in RWD without getting that shudder or wheel hop? all I want is for the tyres to break traction and spin like crazy...

Any ideas? THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!

any help would be greatly appreciated...