If my rotors look fine and there are no ridges caused by the cross-drilled holes or cracking, is it OK to replace the pads only? I want to upgrade the fronts to slotted rotors but I haven't made up my mind what kind of upgrade I'm going to do. I want to replace the pads in the near future without wasting money on more stock rotors if I don't have to.

 

I am going to do the same thing this winter, but I am wondering what the best replacement pads are... looks like I am going to have to read through 3000 subjective posts to figure it out.

 

Yes you can Mike. Switching pads on a 996T is super easy. I can do all 4 corners in less then 30 mins if i'm under pressure at the track.


For track I like PFC. You need heat in these pads to work. A lot of brake dust but worth it imo.

Second, I got for coolcarbon. Some here do not like them to much because of brake dust. I think they are a good 2-3 steps above stock and 3-4 steps bellow PFC. That said, they are cheap and they work. The faster you go the less brakes you need. It may sound counter intuitive but its true. for my mtn driving ( which you have seen is not turtle slow they are perfect ) 10/10s track id go PFC. Anything under 6/10's ill leave my CC on.

 

measure the rotor thickness. if its within spec and theres no warpage to the rotors you should be fine. if they are borderline thin replace them

 

I have always machined my rotors with every pad change. The one time I didn't and just put new pads on, the minor imperfections in the rotor surface seemed to cause accelerated pad wear. This was not on the turbo, and non slotted/drilled rotors (Jeep Grand Cherokee).
Rotor thickness is a critical measurement. I understand turbo rotors can be machined.

 

Thanks Enrique...
This is good news...I wanted to hold off on rotors and mine are in great shape right now. I'll do some research and pick some pads. Breaks have always been easy so I didn't think they would be hard on this car either. Any fluid recommendations for bleeding the system?

 

i've never replaced my rotors on several oem pad changes. once the new pads are on and bedded.. if you hear any squeal at all? a few hard stops should remedy that. best way to eliminate squeal is a few hard stops in succession.

 

As noted as long as rotors are within specs no need to replace I personally replace rotors when worn and do not have them turned.

 

My Porsche tech looked at my rotors when I was at 40,000 miles and said I should just replace the pads now because the rotors will be fine with the new pads...I am Not a track road racer so they were not abused..

 

My first track day is in a month so that should be enough time to bed them in. My car has never been pushed so that's why my rotors are in great shape too. I just crossed the 40K mile mark also