996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

anything available for more adjustment in rear alignment?

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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 02:08 PM
  #31  
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Could also try good advice from SamboTT:

Originally Posted by SamboTT
Try this:
- Max front camber negative. (won't be much). Your rear camber is as low as it will get.
- Front toe 0.0 or green.
- Rear toe .20 in.
 
Old Oct 24, 2013 | 03:06 PM
  #32  
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Why give the front max camber?
 
Old Oct 24, 2013 | 03:10 PM
  #33  
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without the GT2/GT3 front control arms you won't get much any way(IIRC ~1.5*), having more front camber than rear seems to bring out the good in 911's, more neutrally balanced handling vs. understeer...worry more about the rear toe and camber for now
 
Old Oct 24, 2013 | 03:44 PM
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Ya, thus is just a daily driver. I play with it, but its 80% highway cruiser. I don't need the best handling, just the best tire wear
 
Old Oct 24, 2013 | 03:53 PM
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1.5degrees will still be easy on tires(let's say 20% left on outside shoulder tread when inside is 0%) but still give good handling...camber isn't a major cause of tire wear, toe is primarily responsible as it causes the tire to scrub/scrape the pavement as it rolls; don't be scared to run a little camber and enjoy the corners
Cheers,
 
Old Oct 24, 2013 | 05:00 PM
  #36  
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Thank you for all the help. Will start digging in this weekend
 
Old Oct 24, 2013 | 09:50 PM
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Happy to help-I love this stuff! Hope its something quick and simple to correct...
Cheers,
 
Old Oct 25, 2013 | 05:31 PM
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Nope, no coil overs on the car. Do all you Guys run .20ish positive toe in the rear?
 
Old Oct 25, 2013 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 993GT
definitely worth adding some toe to see if that helps, I still think something is worn out as the pic of the tire shows it eating the sidewall down, not just a bit of excessive inner tread wear....either way you need to locate the rear toe-link and be able to turn the eccentric, the 'large' part of the lobe needs to be turned towards the centre point of the car...to measure you need to make up a quick tool to get datapoints from front and rear rim lips..
I agree, put it on a lift check for play and have someone look while wheel is being moved to see where it's coming from.
 
Old Oct 26, 2013 | 11:26 AM
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This is .20 positive toe right?
 
Old Oct 26, 2013 | 12:50 PM
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Thus is what just came up on a new alignment rack. What should I change the specs to?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2013 | 01:05 PM
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Front
Max out the camber but keep both sides equal

Toe +0.05 is a nice and stable set up. Or go -0.05 if you want a more responsive car, Do not go neutral 0.00 the car with hunt with irregularities in the road more.

Rear
-1.83 deg Camber again both sides equal

Toe +0.17 to +0.25 per side, I would go +0.20 to +0.22 per side for your set up. In the back Dead equal both side on the toe is super crucial.... I can not stress that enough!!!!
 

Last edited by Engine Guy; Oct 26, 2013 at 02:54 PM.
Old Oct 26, 2013 | 05:24 PM
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These are my alignment settings:

Front camber: -2.83deg
Front toe: +0.03' per side (+0.06' total)
Rear camber: -2.25deg
Rear toe: +0.17' (+0.34' total)
Ride height: Front 102mm, 125mm rear
Tires: 245/40/18 and 305/35/18

Even though I run an aggressive alignment, my tire wear is perfectly even as you can see in the pictures and the tires are just about down to the cords as you are staring to see the vertical striations in the body of the tire. My tires wear equally front and rear even though I'm RWD so I always replace all 4 at a time. One thing I will tell you is that my inner tire wear improved dramatically when I went to full monoball on the suspension and locked down the toe settings. Wearing out the inside portion of the tire is normally due to too much toe, not camber, so don't be scared of having some camber. With all the rubber there is in the suspension, your toe is all over the place as the whole wheel assembly moves fore and aft by as much as a 1/4" under load as the rubber bushings compress when braking and accelerating aggressively. As you accelerate toe in increases as the wheel assembly is pulled forward and vice versa as the wheels "spread" under hard braking. This toe change kills your tires and it shows up on the inside portion. Install solid caster pucks in your LCAs along with adjustable toe arms and you will see a huge improvement.

REAR:



FRONT:
 
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Last edited by pwdrhound; Oct 27, 2013 at 10:32 AM.
Old Oct 27, 2013 | 04:30 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by SamboTT
V the car cannot feel right. You will solve your issue by adding in toe. Try .20 in. What is happening is that under load the tires are opening outward shredding themselves. It make s the car feel super loose too.

Try this:
- Max front camber negative. (won't be much). Your rear camber is as low as it will get.
- Front toe 0.0 or green.
- Rear toe .20 in.
You will love the feel and the tires will wear better. It's a bit more rear toe than stock because with 480-500 hp you will squat more than stock and tow out 15-25deg.

I guarantee you will be happy. Let me know if I can help with anything.
perfect recommondation +15 max +20 per side (with -2,5 without problems)
 

Last edited by winnigt2; Oct 27, 2013 at 04:38 AM.
Old Oct 27, 2013 | 07:45 PM
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Rear camber

FWIW,

I tried 2.5 degrees do camber in the rear and it was too much. I wore the inside edges too quickly, even with 90% track miles. I backed it off to 2.25 and am getting much more even wear.
 


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