...on a new battery.. just until i can get a rebuilt one to r&r?
or will it leave me stranded side of the road? i had aaa test it and alternator test showed good so i replaced a battery since i just had engine out and figured from sitting battery could have discharged.

symptoms are: occasional CEL which will clear itself ( no code ) and when failure light on dash is red ( battery fail indicator ), and the amp gauge drops instantly to a dead 12 and stays. until it bounces right back to its normal idling 13.8. i've ordered a rebuilt alt.. but if anyone can confirm and/or tell me if i can safely putt around while i'm waiting for the part, or if i'm better to just "park it" and wait. i'd appreciate. after all i've just done to the car, id rather drive it, than look at it. again, battery is new so i figured even if the alt gave out completely, i'd still have enough juice in the new battery to limp home..
TIA...

 

That doesnt sound like a dead alternator that sounds like a loose comection i had the samething and it was my key circuit failing part was 35.00

When an alternator is failing like mine did when i first bought my car your voltage will start out at 14 volts then after normal driving it will go down to 12volts and lights will pop on. It will not bounce back to 14 volts. Check all of your connections like alternator power supply and battery terminals and starter wires.

 

really why wouldn't it "bounce" back if the failure were intermittent as in "about to fail"..or when an alt goes.. is that just it. that's where i'm confused. it began to first give the CEL and dash light.. but NOW has progressed to the CEL and the Gauge Bounce... back to 13.8 and cel goes off.

you still think a connection... hmmm. what would've been disconnected as part of trans removal, and might not be "tight? any idea?

thx btw...

ADD:.. just realized. wouldn't testing the system with the handheld tester and alt testing "OK" tend to rule out a FAILING alt, and perhaps a loose connection IS the cause? i guess this is gonna get bigger than my ability to guess at.

 

I would check connections and if no change just wait=better then sitting along the road.

 

Its a tricky thing with this but i know when an alternator fails and this is not it. Trust me this has happened to me for a year before we found it also the alternator wire was a little loose.

 

I'm incapable of testing the connections myself, and leaving it sitting would be the more prudent choice. Can anyone tell me if it does happen to fail outright does it leave you unable to drive the car?
There is surprisingly little info on this I can find. I guess connections must be checked..
Appreciate the advice

 

Does your key stick in the ignition? Do you not here a pop when the key comes out? This happemed to me for over a year so no you will not get stuck but its a connection or your key ignition.

 

Ignition switch is about year old. No issues. Just the above. Given the alt tested ok, that's the first aspect that suggests it could in fact be a loose wire. While I'm about to throw an alternator at it.

 

I found corrosion on my wire to the alternator and it was loose. You will find it also its funny you had the same issues as me this should be brought up with a sticky.

 

if the alternator has a complete failure the car will run until the battery can no longer support the dme or fuel pump or both. at this point the car stalls and your done.

if you have the ability to remove the alternator do so and take it to your auto parts store and have it LOAD tested. if it reads ok then do the same for the battery. if it tests ok then your down to chasing wires. since the trans was out the starter wires were removed and possibly they weren't tightened up causing a static drain?

 

this is what i'm thinkin, but already replaced battery. it's last "part" i'm gonna throw at it without knowing for certain.

but wouldn't the handheld tester show a load/no load issue with the alt IF it were bad?? my battery AND alt tested OK! with a handheld AAA whatever its called. is it a multlimeter? F*** if i know

i just know they both tested "ok" and i opted to replace the battery on the spot since there was a brand new 2/14 mfg date 80 cca battery and i felt lucky.

no such luck. i think you're right and it's time to chase wires. so would a loose starter wire cause the guage to bounce and red batt CEL failure light to go on?.. with nothing wrong beyond a loose wire? there is NO ignition switch issue or battery issue. just the red light and guage going from 13.8.. to 12. then it'll go back up and stay that way until i shut er off.

 

Yup i had a loose wire and corrosion i bet corrosion is the first thing.

 

thx man.. i'm gonna have the guys that r&r'd the trans take a look. what a hassle that's gonna be. thing is.. the car has more than enough miles on it for the alt to GO bad.. it's just that the trans WAS just out, and that does move wires as 32 pointed out.. and i don't put a lot of stock in "coincidences"..and i can see them not tightening a wire... i'm sorry to say.

 

Mine were tighten real good but they can get loose from the power of your car or corrosion.

 

i'm not gona flatbed this thing. would you guys "drive to workshop"?

i think some wire runs across motor from trans got pinched.