When I purchased the car a few months ago the passenger side window would make all sorts of crunching noises as it would move up and down. I assumed this was the window regulator, so I replaced it. For what it's worth there is an issue with the door latch microswitch (the window doesn't drop fully on door-open).

The new window regulator worked great for a little while, but now the window has decided to sometimes get stuck (either while open, or closed) but when it does move I'm again hearing the crunching. When it gets stuck pulling up on the glass while working the switch seems to get it motivated to move.

Do I need another new regulator, or is this an issue with the window motor? Could the inner door latch assembly microswitch be contributing to this is any way?

thanks guys

 

Regulator, did you install oem regulator or the aftermarket? Aftermarket are well known to fail often. Had two go bad on me made me resort to buying the third one as oem instead

 

i agree it's definitely the regulator. though yes, you *could* indeed have a separate yet possibly connected issue with the door latch mechanism, since they are as common as anything failing on these and both activate the window to some degree ( obviously lol ). but "crunching" in my experience though, is always the window reg. try adjusting it again, or have someone that has done this a few hundred times do it. that usually works for me

 

I did the aftermarket regulator few weeks ago on mine in preparation to sell the car. The regulator fit fine and functions OK. The repaired window is a little slower than the OEM unit. Probably gonna replace again before anyone takes a look see.

 

+1x10^6 My driver side regulator failed and I went with the aftermarket one. Within less than one year, it failed. I replaced it with an OEM regulator. So far, 3 years later, no problems. So, when my passenger regulator recently failed, I just went OEM.

 

Good to know. I just ordered the OE replacement for my pass. side window.

 

HAHA, I just got my OE yesterday. side window. I will be doing it this weekend.

 

If its the window not cycling up-down when open/closing the door may be microswitch in door latch assembly. Interesting i'm reading this thread and I just developed the same issue last week. just ordered the microswitch for the latch. Question for anyone on here that performed DIY.
My concern is the air bag deploying. If the battery is discoonected and wait for 15 minutes - will removing the door panel then be safe? Meaning air bag will not deploy. I have removed many door panels but not on the turbo and dont want to be surprised with air bag going off.

 

Honestly you could get away with not removing the airbag although it's only 4 bolts and the connector. Also could do it only removing bottom half of the foam liner and secure it out of the way. All your access is at the bottom of the door and the "peep" holes at the top for adjustment.

Think I have read to unplug the battery for 15 min to let the airbag discharge. Not sure how much I believe that. Also don't hook the battery back up w/out the airbag being plugged in or you will get a code (like I did)

 

I agree. I've done three of these now--the first one I removed the airbag (and reconnected the battery before reconnecting the airbag...got a code ). The second and third changes I just left the airbag in place--it didn't offer that much of an access advantage to have it out, so I left it in. Definitely have the battery disconnected (I don't know about the 15 minute rule) and use caution and common sense when working around it.