While my car is on lift waiting on a inner barrel for my ccw's, I was bored and decided to preform a boost leak test per markskis instructions. I already had a rig setup from my last test.

Aside from having a lean code on both banks that comes on from time to time the car runs,drives, and performs great. I really never roll race it just some WOT's from time to time. I tested from the turbos, and used soapy water from a spray bottle. To my surprise I had many small and one medium sized boost leaks at 20psi. The main leak was the driver side inter cooler hose which connects to the speed tech y-pipe. I tightened the t-bolt up and all was good. Then I sprayed down both dv's ( forge 007p iirc) they leaked everywhere. The nipple and the twist on cap. Then I moved to the infamous y-valve/Venturi tube. It was leaking from the check valve that is built in. I also had leaks in most of my meth injection fittings. I also "think" I hear a whoosh of some sort on the passenger side rear that is not so obvious. I thinki I'll take the bumper of and check the inter coolers and hose's.

Tonight I removed the airbox y-pipe f hose along with both dv's. I ordered the Venturi tube and plan on installing it once it comes in later this week. As for the meth lines how should I approach this? Is this a concern or when it is driven and full of meth does it seal? I'm going to lower the motor by loosening the mounts up, are there any other tips to installing the Venturi tube. About those dv's.... I know most will tell me to get 710n's, but is there anything I can do from preventing them from leaking? I was thinking about welding the nipple and sealing the cap with Teflon tape??

 

At least you can do the work yourself. Had mine in for boost/vac leaks a half a year ago - shop kept digging deep finding little ones here and there. End result was over $3k - but now no leaks. Had an unusual leak location - the intake distributor on the exhaust side, took him awhile to narrow that down - was not evident until things heated up. Also all the distributor collars, lots of clamps, an injector O ring, etc.
These cars are relatively old, chances are that most have a few small leaks and do not even know it. Good practice to check for leaks every few years.
Mine did not exhibit any major issues, but now that it is all done - it is much smoother.

 

Just brought mine in today for a boost leak check. One IC was broken/cracked and thought that was the problem, leaking elsewhere too.

 

Sorry to hear Rob. How did that car get non-stock DV's if you didn't do them? I have NEVER used anything other than 710N's?

 

i put 007p's in a while back when i had the transmission out . I also had the y-pipe out to do the gt2 slave power steering end of things.

 

BTW... i am finally getting some ams 1 bar waste gates.

 

A word of advise for replacing the check valve... That sucker can really be stuck on the two rubber hoses pretty good and you might find yourself tugging pretty damn hard on it. Well, don't tug too hard because you can break the plastic barb where the other end of the rubber hose attaches to the intake plenum. Ask me how I know. I wound up having to replace the plenum, or as Porsche calls it the Intake Distributor. Not fun! If the check valve is stuck, try pushing the clamps further down the hose. I think I didn't push mine down far enough and it was still holding onto the valve while I was tugging on it.

Also, I had similar issues with my billet Bailey's DV's. After several rebuild attempts, using teflon tape, lube, ect... they kept leaking. I replaced them with the 710N's and was done with it...

 

That's good...finally someone got to it!!! Don't go turning the power up until you get a fuel system!!!

 

Now imagine how many members here have similar issues... I bet 8 out of 10...