Would hubcentric rings from forgestar help aligning the wheels for frequent on/off installs ?
Shows on the website where they sell hubcentric rings for their wheels

 

all f'stars in 18 require the rings. aint no way around em lol

 

Maybe somehow you got the wrong hub rings? Also, you might look into replacing the bolts with studs, and that may open up your options a bit. There are a couple of companies that sell stud conversion kits and these are definitely designed for track use

 

thx. the hub ring is wheel correct...and there is no vibration or otherwise peculiar behavior. thanks.. and yes, looking into a stud conversion set. my thread somewhere else generated a timely advert for same. appreciate the input.

 

Could the rings be no longer hub centric from repeated remove and install , and what if the wheel bolt seat itself has developed some defect in it to cause any slight wobble resulting in lug bolts sheering ?

 

hmm..that isn't something i've considered? the wheels look fine. there is no visible play movement or anything untoward about any aspect of this. the more i do think about this, and look at the POS bolts that have been used, and are *generally* available. eg more shiny chrome etc etc..

the more i'm beginning to think that studs are the way to go for my usage. this has much to do with the lousiness of the bolts in concert with the lateral stresses i must be putting on them on twisting backroads. i truly appreciate everyone's input/advice and will look for a set of the studs.. and be done with lugs moving forward.

 

Hey Mark, did we hit the canyons to hard last week??

 

i have the forgesatrs cf5 for 2 yrs and the original lug bolts. from 509 rwhp to 650 rwhp and not a single problem.

what type of torque wrench are you using? the most common "clicking" torque wrench can be as much as 50% off the correct reading leaving you with untorqued bolts which may move and shear. once the wheel is on and torqued properly only huge hp to the wheel should cause a bolt to break or tremendous side load.

 

When I was about 10 we would go to the drag strip on a regular basis, one night a guy snapped all ten lugs leaving the line= found it amusing as a being kid. I would try a good set of studs and if one more snapped those wheels would go in the recycle bin.

 

i don't know what brand. but it's also the tire shops wrench since i stop there weekly for air and will now be torquing every cpl weeks too. but will look into that. thx

hardly lol was more like a go slow race in honor of our fallen comrade


i'm not the only guy this has ever happened to lol. i'm suspecting driving conditions coupled with ****ty bolts. trying new TUV cert'd bolts. then studs. then wheels

 

Also, are you using anti-seize on the threads and tapered face of the bolts?

 

someone just recommended that to me. i will when i replace with all new german lugs. thanks.

 

update: to any/all that helped. thanks.

i'm fairly embarrassed to report back that mixed lugs of both taper as well as provenance were to blame. i had some that were semi-conical and some that were ball seat also tapered, close but not wheel correct. who knew. i trusted folks to install what was best, not just what *might* fit. i now know nothing on this car ( lugs sheesh ) can be left to chance or randomness, and i continue to live.. and learn.

solution: tuner lugs = 12mm allen head 14mm x 30mm length. as a bonus they look a helluva lot better too. so again, to all that helped me stumble thru this learning process, thanks again : all is again well on the western front

 

Wow! Glad you got it sorted out Mark!

 

congrats. a good rule of thumb is aftermarket wheels =conical lugs oem = ball seat lugs. not absolute but generally this way. all forgestar wheels are conical seat lugs

also remember a wheel shops torque wrench is used by many people and dropped tossed and abused no telling how many times. the chances they send it out for calibration are slim. best way is to use a digital calibrated torque wrench after visiting the shop for peace of mind