996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Snapping Lug's? any help?

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Old Feb 4, 2015 | 04:08 PM
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I honestly think something is wrong with the wheels at this point. As noted before, properly installed bolts really don't endure that much stress. I've never come across anyone breaking them unless they were using spacers without proper hub extenders.
 
Old Feb 4, 2015 | 04:14 PM
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not much i can say to that bruno... lol. and about the wheels, well of course you might be right, but enough folks have looked at them by now, absent metallurgical engineers! but i will disagree with you and simply say the lugs endure an enormous amount of LATERAL stress. not gonna argue about it though. it's my off day

btw.. hope you enjoy your new f14's and that this never happens to you
 
Old Feb 4, 2015 | 05:17 PM
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i'm ordering from germany TUV certified 17mm x 14x1.5 lugs in a longer 45mm shank as the thinking is that what i've been running is not "quite" deep enough into the hub for what i've been "asking" of them.. and the torque will be 110 ft lbs.

i have been promised they will never snap, but this has been told to me in deutsche, so they may have just told me to go **** myself. we shall see. i have NO idea what my issue or reason for not being able to use the 17mm head lugs before has been.
 
Old Feb 4, 2015 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
i'm ordering from germany TUV certified 17mm x 14x1.5 lugs in a longer 45mm shank as the thinking is that what i've been running is not "quite" deep enough into the hub for what i've been "asking" of them.. and the torque will be 110 ft lbs.

i have been promised they will never snap, but this has been told to me in deutsche, so they may have just told me to go **** myself. we shall see. i have NO idea what my issue or reason for not being able to use the 17mm head lugs before has been.
you might want to install a wheel and measure to see what the length you actually need is. to long a lug bolt and it will hit the ebrake inside the hub. 6 threads is what you need inside the hub hole to get a good bite
 
Old Feb 5, 2015 | 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 32krazy!
you might want to install a wheel and measure to see what the length you actually need is. to long a lug bolt and it will hit the ebrake inside the hub. 6 threads is what you need inside the hub hole to get a good bite
geez steve, i hope the added 5mm isn't going to be an issue.. but i have been in contact with a very large retailer of the forgestars and they have in turn asked all the questions and are providing me with what they assure me will be the solution. they are certainly not making any "money" for helping me, although they will certainly have a "new" customer esp since they too are in SoCal.

it's my last shot before replacing the wheels. i have faith as they did some serious questioning and they seemed to understand quickly the difference i have been trying to describe here in my driving "style" and conditions with what might be normal everyday or even track conditions. none of this is happening on long sweepers at 100+. more like 20 mph ( recommended ) turns taken at... whatever. you get my point.
 
Old Feb 5, 2015 | 08:08 AM
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Your difference in length is only just over 3 threads. Screw a bolt into the hub without a wheel to the point where it makes contact and measure, turn the hub as well. This will tell you if you are OK.

What did the wheel retailer think your problem was?
 
Old Feb 5, 2015 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
not much i can say to that bruno... lol. and about the wheels, well of course you might be right, but enough folks have looked at them by now, absent metallurgical engineers! but i will disagree with you and simply say the lugs endure an enormous amount of LATERAL stress. not gonna argue about it though. it's my off day

btw.. hope you enjoy your new f14's and that this never happens to you
Well, the only reason I am saying this is because it looks like you have snapped more than one brand now. I am not an engineer but I'm sure they can calculate the force lugs can endure vs. what it typically is on our cars. I would imagine the breaking point is much higher than the stress they actually endure given major safety consequences.

So, in short, something is causing the stress to be much higher than normal. Could be the hubcentric rings, potentially torque and lastly something being off with the wheels. Lots of people with high HP cars, track cars, etc. and no lug problems.

Hopefully you get it sorted soon!

I am loving the wheels so far!
 
Old Feb 5, 2015 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by nick49
Your difference in length is only just over 3 threads. Screw a bolt into the hub without a wheel to the point where it makes contact and measure, turn the hub as well. This will tell you if you are OK.

What did the wheel retailer think your problem was?

thanks, i'll try to make sure the tire shop does this as i''m not going to even insert them initially.


they believe it is all of the above. driving style/conditions/hi rwhp ( relative terms ) in combination with lousy and or cheaply made lugs that are probably undertorqued.
 
Old Feb 25, 2015 | 05:23 AM
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solution: 17mm x 14mm x 1.5 x .41mm TUV certified dacromet coated with a thin wall socket torqued to 100 ft lbs. they're snug as a bug in a rug.

shout out to wheel enhancement in LA ( 6spd sponsor? ) for knowing wtf i've been talking about and realizing the my issue was just plain old lousy *****y lugs and to OTIS LA ( also local ) for having them in stock at a reasonable price. this has been quite the odyssey but my journey and dllemma has been sorted. thanks to all here for their advice re measuring etc etc.

look at that sh*t i've been using ..sheesh. it's no wonder
 
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
solution: 17mm x 14mm x 1.5 x .41mm TUV certified dacromet coated with a thin wall socket torqued to 100 ft lbs. they're snug as a bug in a rug.

shout out to wheel enhancement in LA ( 6spd sponsor? ) for knowing wtf i've been talking about and realizing the my issue was just plain old lousy *****y lugs and to OTIS LA ( also local ) for having them in stock at a reasonable price. this has been quite the odyssey but my journey and dllemma has been sorted. thanks to all here for their advice re measuring etc etc.

look at that sh*t i've been using ..sheesh. it's no wonder
so is one of these the final lug bolt? which one?
 
Old Feb 25, 2015 | 06:17 PM
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I'm betting the gray one!
 
Old Feb 25, 2015 | 06:33 PM
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lol. fellas it's approximately 1MM too long. hitting the e brake. i'm only the piano player but shoot me anyway

cant friggin believe this ha! sorry for the update. grr.
 
Old Feb 25, 2015 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
lol. fellas it's approximately 1MM too long. hitting the e brake. i'm only the piano player but shoot me anyway

cant friggin believe this ha! sorry for the update. grr.
machine shop. machine 2mm off. you will be fine. was it the gray ones? i think i mentioned something about this
 
Old Feb 25, 2015 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 32krazy!
machine shop. machine 2mm off. you will be fine. was it the gray ones? i think i mentioned something about this
exactly! what we're doing. guy at otis bolts is taking them himself. no ones fault really. can you imagine i dont have ONE freakin MM of clearance ridiculous, really.

yes, the gray. they are tough lil suckers. german for sure.

you probably did steve. i had to measure, and talk to folks.. and this is what i got. wrong! lol
 
Old Feb 25, 2015 | 06:48 PM
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was always an issue with the m/b when i was changing rims to get the right length and not hit the ebrake. makes studs look better and better
make sure the roll the edges so it doesn't cut the hub threads when installing them. they should be harder than the hub threads. easy to screw the threads up if not rolled edges
 


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