So I should be getting my new to me 996tt next week (my 6th porsche and third 996tt).

The car in question is absolute beauty but it was standing for more than a year. Battery disconnected and probably still has gas in it.

So what should be done before/after starting this car up again? Check the hoses? Oil, filter change?

I have no idea and appreciate any help

Thanks,
C

 

Good idea to change oil and filter. Do it after or before starting the car. Doesnt matter. Before starting it up and before turn the key, pull the fuse for the gas pump and crank the engine a little, so the oil gets everywhere again and the oil pressure is up. Then start.

 

I wouldn't run 12 month old gas through my 996tt....do you know if the owner used something like STA-BIL in the fuel before putting it away in storage?

 

Get rid of the old fuel. There are no drain you have to suck it out through the fuel pump opening on top of the tank...Drop the oil from the tank and crankcase, replace the filter, remove fuse C4 (fuel pump) and crank for about the engine one minute to build up oil pressure and lubricate the internals, without firing the engine. Reinstall the fuse and start the engine….

 

if there was one thing, and ONLY one thing i would do, it'd be to follow jp's advice and pull that c4 fuse!! ..and hope the PO used sta bil per p556. beyond that, should be fine, though i would bet the accumulator is toast. watch out for the wing hydraulics also. a year is long enough for them to act up for no other reason than non use.

lucky find, good luck!

 

You will be fine if he used sta-bil I keep fuel here for equipment longer and it burns fine. Pulling the fuse is a good idea for oil circulation. I work on farm equipment sometimes with old fuel and sometimes they run fine others not. If it starts and runs fine I would run the fuel down and refill.

 

What octane fuel is readily available in the part of the world the car was stored in?

If you absolutely have to run the fuel through the motor, here's what I would do.

--Start with an oil change. Drain all 4 spots.
1. Add fresh gas. Even if it's only 1 or 2 gallons.
2. NO boost on that old gas. NONE! The additives in the old fuel will be expired, and that will probably make it very unstable (unless it's turned to varnish). The pressure/heat in the cylinder with boost would probably be enough to cause it to pre-detonate as the piston is still moving up to compress.
3. After the tank is run down I would add a bottle of Chevron Techron additive to the next tank.
4. After that next tank I would do another oil change.

I would also suggest you do some google-ing on oil and fuel gelling and gumming up hoses and injectors. You don't want that crap gumming up your system.

 

I have bought dozens of cars sitting longer and most start up and run. Taking the precautions above are all good especially no to low boost. The oil change is common sense. The car has been sitting a year you will be fine don't get paranoid.

 

dwdwdwwd you got lots of good advice here, please follow them!!! Engines are expensive!!!

 

Gotta love his screen name lol.

 

Hey guys I reeeeeally appreciate all the answers. I'm currently browsing 6speed on my phone and will respond tomorrow (and check with PO regarding current status).

I've never heard of STA-BIL but since the car got stuck on the parking lot because of a bad business deal I really doubt that anyone put any tought into it.

The gas should be 100 octane EU (OMV) gas so it was at least high quality gas when it was last running

 

follow this exactly...can also purge the fuel at the test port on the fuel filter.

 

Well, I wouldn't do anything. Pulling the fuel pump fuse and cranking the engine doesn't crank the engine fast enough to generate any real oil flow/pressure. When I start my Turbo oil pressure doesn't register until after the engine fires and begins to run on its own. All that cranking with the fuse removed just spins the engine at low speed on residual oil and then when the engine does start and begins to run this residual oil has been depleted so the engine bearings are even worse off then they were before all that slow cranking.

The fuel will be stale and this might cause the engine to run poorly. BTW, the higher the octane the more quickly the fuel goes off.

As soon as the engine is warmed up enough to check the oil level check the oil level.

Or just change the oil.

In fact, I'd change the oil/filter as soon as I could, as soon as the engine was warm enough to check the oil level.

Afterwards, if the engine is running ok drive the car around until you can add some fresh gasoline. If the engine is not running ok you'll have to consider siphoning out the stale gasoline and adding fresh gasoline.

After you have run all the stale gas through the engine change the fuel filter. At this time I'd drain and replace the coolant with fresh mix of anti-freeze and distilled water.

Going forward change the engine air filter, cabin air filter, check the body water drains, check the radiator ducts for trash, and do other services like brake/clutch fluid flush/bleed, spark plugs, to get the car back on some service schedule.

Keep a sharp eye out for leaks. These cars don't like sitting unused -- the older the car is when it is parked up for a long time the worse it is for the car -- and gaskets/seals can develop leaks. Check the water pump, RMS, transmission/diff seals (don't forget the front diff), spoiler cylinders, coolant hose line fittings in the block, and every other place there is a gasket, o-ring, seal, or fitting.

Added: Before you start the engine you probably want to do an e-Gas calibration. With the ignition off and your foot off the gas pedal turn the key to the on position. Wait 60 seconds. Turn the key off. Wait 10 seconds. Done.

Also, before you start the engine check for any signs of rodent damage. Look for mice sign on top of the engine, in the cab, trunk, etc.

 

Really? When I pull my C4 fuse and crank the engine over with the starter, I get about 3-4 bar of oil pressure within 5-7 seconds. Every competent race shop I know will follow this procedure on engines that have not been run for a while or on freshly built motors. It's called priming the oil system. You are in a very small minority of people that does not subscribe in this procedure probably because it's not written in a Porsche owners manual somewhere. I'm sure Porsche doesn't want the average clown pulling fuses for liability reasons. They could care less about engine wear for the minority of people that leave their cars to sit for extended periods.

 

Completely agree!
For people who store their cars over winter, prime the system a hour or so before fire-up to purge/fill the lifters and have a nice oil film on as many operating surfaces as possible.