Great thread!!!

 

thx for the info. i was told the rear subs were indeed too much nvh for a street car. i was that far in at the time, and asking what i might do.. or not. it appears as if the ts toe links I've just put in will need to be re-adresssed and possibly thrust arm bushings since i'm going back in as well .. as it appears i have bent both the oem toe links as well as the lca's on the drivers side disallowing me to adjust any ( + ) camber. though i will try and put the car off the lift and only on jacks and try to get more + , but for now, i'm a bit under adjusted with the ts links and i got them to address the issue of the toe tread wear, but i imagine the toe movement under load is still extant with only the ts links.. yes? but my hope was to toe out to about 0.27 so under serious squat, all would ( somewhat ) compensate. i hope i have this all essentially right? i am learning.

as to the bent parts, given i have on many occasions snapped wheel lugs! it comes as no huge surprise my bashing up and down these mtn's has actually bent some of the oem parts in the rear


( sorry to the op..although this is now relevant to me in terms of parts though - the coils, but again.. sorry for interrupting your thread...)

 

All my parts are ordered so i'll chime in once the install is complete later in the month.

 

Considering that aftermarket monoball upper mounts are ~500, isnt getting the GT2/GT3 DFV ohlins still a better deal? You also get camber adjustment/monoball mount instead of the stock turbo upper mounts.

 

For RWD I went through this process.. well to TBH Tim941NYC did it all.

I bought the GT2/GT3 DFV Ohlins for $2500 direct from Ohlins USA.

add

front wheel bearing $50
Perch and Top hats from a GT3 $500
GT2 uprights and PCCB hats for proper offset $1000
Stainless steel brake lines front and rear $125
ATE 4 brake fluid $20
Wheel alignment
Installed struts, flushed and bled the brake system

Total cost installed with labor $5500

 

Well that is doing the uprights too.

I assume that you could get the ohlins kit for the GT2/GT3 and treat them like how you would install OEM GT2/GT3 coilovers on a 996tt by getting aftermarket monoball top mounts and putting a sleeve on the shock body.

The rear is plug and play.

 

that is excellent. thats exactly what i need to do parts list or used gt3 stuff. i just want the 6 pots, not pccb.

 

Ok so now that i'm getting near the install phase of this in the next week does anyone have suggestions for what setting to put the Front and Rear Eibach settings on?

I'm not saying i'm an awesome driver so I don't want snap oversteer - just a nice neutral setup. Any thoughts or recommendations?

For the coilovers i'm putting them at the "10" setting which according to the instructions is the "winding road" setting. 1-9 is stiffer for the more track oriented setups.

I appreciate any feedback you guys have.

 

Admittedly, I have not read the whole thread.

Do you have adjustable front and rear sway bars, and drop links?

 

Yes Eibach F&R bars with front and rear adjustable Tarett drop links.

From the searching i've done for a street car it seems like going soft front / mid rear on the sways might be the best bet for a neutral setup and get rid of a bit of the understeer tendency.

 

yes, to middle setting (rear ) TS ( for example ) toe links allow for a .027 toe/rear. which is just at the end of porsche spec, or possibly a smidgen outside. but best for even tread wear inside. so excessive "squat" under hard accel is compensated for.

 

did you get Ksports?

 

I just got my car back today after having Ohlins R&T installed along with drop links, front monoballs, rear thrust arm bearings and adjustable rear sway bar. Can't wait to finish up the work day and start a weekend of driving!

 

I demand post weekend feedback.

 

^^^^^^ please