996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Coilover Upgrade - Supporting Parts for Street Car?

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Old Apr 3, 2015 | 11:28 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by rxbike
Just ordered mine..... I'll have to remember these settings when I go to put them on.

Feed back on ride quality ?

Thanks for testing
Ride quality on 15 is very nice. It doesn't feel any worse than stock. I actually think it is more comfortable. I don't feel a need to go any stiffer for my use. I spent hours last weekend on the Ortega Highway giving the setup a good workout. Still loving it!
 
Old Apr 4, 2015 | 12:57 PM
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Sounds like 15 maybe a good place to be then. I use to live in San Clemente and have ran Ortega 74 many times in many vehicle. Roads go from good to F#$ked up so if you are loving it then that's where I will start.
Thanks again
 
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 01:04 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by pwdrhound
-Stick with a 100lb front to rear split in springs for RWD, 200lbs for AWD
-Rear adjustable toe arms (PMNA Cup arms are the best). $1000 Add dust boots if you drive the car in the winter.
-Rear toe locking plate kit (Tarett makes one that's cheap) $100
-Rear solid LCA thrust arm bushings (Tarett) $200
-Front and rear adjustable drop links with dust boots (Tarett) $500

Nothing else is needed for a street car. The above items will lock down your rear suspension and greatly help with tire wear. You won't have any additional NVH. Stick with OEM dog bones. Do not waste your money on the adjustable dogbones, they're pointless. Even 996Cups have the same one's that are on our cars. Nothing else is needed unless you want more that -2º camber in the front. In that case front GT3 LCA are what you want. Again, for a street car, no need for it. I'd stick with OEM upper mounts too keep the NVH low. The monoball stuff is nice to keep deflection to a minimum if you're gonna be tracking your car with sticky tires, but not needed for a street car that can't really develop high G loadings on street tires anyway. Align to GT2 specs (maybe more aggressive camber in the front if you can get it with stock LCAs) and call it a day.
Regarding drop links, rear solid LCA thrust arm bushings, and rear toe links, is there any reason you recommend Tarett over Rennline, Torque Solutions, RSS, etc. ?
 
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 07:42 PM
  #64  
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Nope. Just the Tarett's were less expensive than the alternatives.
 
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by vman932
Regarding drop links, rear solid LCA thrust arm bushings, and rear toe links, is there any reason you recommend Tarett over Rennline, Torque Solutions, RSS, etc. ?
I've had great luck with the Tarett drop links through all sorts of track abuse. No noise, just plain works. I like the Tarett solid LCA TA bushings because have two locking bolts as opposed to one bolt like all the others. For rear toe links, I prefer the PMNA Cup units. Same goes for LCAs. Bar none best stuff on the market. I buy PMNA stuff, and then Tarett for DLs and such. Never used, Torgue solutions or RSS. I try to avoid aftermarket stuff whenever possible...
 
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 09:12 AM
  #66  
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So what is the minimum I should buy besides the ohlins R/T kit for my tt ?
I'm not looking to track this car other than 3-4 times/year, weekend driver, not looking to drop vehicle lower (my driveway lip has a hard time on stock ride height)
The coilovers should be here monday next week so I'm excited to get them done.
 
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 09:23 AM
  #67  
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^ The mod list I did a few pages back. I had the exact same goals for the car as you. Streetable primarily but occasional track use.
 
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by daedalus
^ The mod list I did a few pages back. I had the exact same goals for the car as you. Streetable primarily but occasional track use.
This then ? :
Rear adjustable toe arms - 450.00: http://www.tarett.com/items/boxster~...rt_id=30974512
Rear toe locking plate kit - 95.00: http://www.tarett.com/items/993-964-...rt_id=30974513
Rear solid LCA thrust arm bushings - 100.00: http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...a01-detail.htm
Front adjustable drop links with dust boots - 310.00: http://www.tarett.com/items/991-981-...rt_id=30974520
Rear adjustable drop links with dust boots - 210.00: http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...rt_id=30974523
 
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 09:59 AM
  #69  
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^^ Yup. One of those links won't work but you can still find the part on the site normally.
 
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by rxbike
This then ? :
Rear adjustable toe arms - 450.00: http://www.tarett.com/items/boxster~...rt_id=30974512
Rear toe locking plate kit - 95.00: http://www.tarett.com/items/993-964-...rt_id=30974513
Rear solid LCA thrust arm bushings - 100.00: http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...a01-detail.htm
Front adjustable drop links with dust boots - 310.00: http://www.tarett.com/items/991-981-...rt_id=30974520
Rear adjustable drop links with dust boots - 210.00: http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...rt_id=30974523
I didn't get the rear adjustable toe arms or rear toe locking plate kit. I don't have a problem with too much rear toe in even without the toe arms.
 
Old Apr 23, 2015 | 10:12 PM
  #71  
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Reporting back, install done and aligned. Went with the target adjustable f/r drop links which was much needed for the alignment. Allows for me to get more camber if needed. Did replace the full top hat for the front with new OEM which was a ~900 dollar extra on this install that I planned and not planned.
She does sit lower ~20mm at this point. I set the shocks at 15 like previous suggestion as start and the 20 mile drive home gave the car a much better road composure. When I did hit a really ****ty section of agricultural stretch, 40mph cruising about rattle my teeth until I could pass the farmer on his tractor then it smoothed out nicely.
 
Old Apr 24, 2015 | 08:49 PM
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Mine is still at the dealer. I took mine back as my 305/30's were still rubbing like crazy so we raised up the rear significantly so it would be usable.

But they found the front Tarret drop links had already been severely bent (in about 20 miles of test driving) and had been hitting on some part of the suspension so new drop links are inbound and hopefully they can resolve this and I can finally get my car back.
 
Old Apr 24, 2015 | 09:32 PM
  #73  
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^
Bummer I am running 295/30 and it is clearing with enough room for 305/30 I hope
I'll have to put my other set on and see
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 03:59 PM
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Picked up my car finally after a month and a half debacle. Only driven it for about 20 miles of light city driving and a quick backroad blast. Coilovers seem very compliant and i'm very happy with the ride quality (i'm set at 13 F&R).

My only complaint is that my steering feels very "dead" or light off center. The initial steering angle from say 10:30-12 o'clock and 12-1:30 seems to be very light and almost makes the care feel a bit loose.

I'm not sure if it's just the fact I haven't driven it in almost 2 months and I have been driving my GTR so i'm use to the very solid direct steering on the car, or if this is in relation to the new front sway bar?

Any suspension guru's know what I mean about the steering feel? Anything I could do to improve it? I have the front eibach sway on full soft (as I didn't want to get the car prone to oversteer with my average driving abilities). Would the mid setting up front tighten the steering feel up? (I have the rear bar set to it's mid setting).

Thanks for the help!
 
Old Feb 14, 2016 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Duane996tt
You won't be able to get a street rear cam setting unless you go with dog bones (rear only), adjustable shock tops, or split lower rear control arms. There is not enough adjustment in the stock eccentrics. Split lower control arms with shims are what the factory uses. The shims are marked so you get a pretty good idea how much negative camber you adding/subtracting one you get a baseline adjustment. Rear dog bones are easy to set up for track or street but a bit harder to change between camber settings based on how many turns of the link. Adjustable shock top plates are easy to adjust as you can just mark on the plates with how much camber you're dialing in. But there will be much more spring noise as there is no rubber left between the coil overs and the body shock towers.
The Tarett drop links are also noisy (as are all other adjustable heim joint drop links). The cure is to pack the boots with grease. Don't forget the tranny mount. Either upgrade to the 997 or go with an aftermarket with hard synthetic inserts.
The stock shifter is junk and the 997 short shifter only a modest improvement. Most of it is plastic and can break under heavy use. Go with the Numeric shifter and also get the RS shift cables.

that's worth reading a few times. cutting and pastin this.
 


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