Many of you know that last year I popped my motor and messed up my casings and all. So the plan is to step it up to the big boy club. I'm planning on being in the 1000 RWHP range on E85 Firstly the motor has been Broken Down and we are in the beginning stages of putting this beast together. We started by ordering parts and Casings.

ProEfi 112 with all the sensors.
Ets intercoolers good enough using E85
Ets Headers
3" straight exhaust
Alpha Tial 3082's
Gt3 oil pump
Carrillo Rods
Silly Rabbit's stage 3 fuel kit
Fic 2150cc injectors
Arp Hardware
Torque sollution water pipe kit
Torque sollution motor and Tranny mounts
Upgraded Valves, springs and keepers
Cleaned and ported heads
Oring stock piston sleeves
IPD 74 mm plenum and Tb
Wavetrac Diff
Dss Axels
ERP triple disc clutch

I know I've caught hell for not having a "Porsche shop" do it but my buddy Collin at Racing Integration here in Tampa got tired of seeing me suffer with this car and he Is a very Capable Mechanic and Tuner that has build super fast GTRs, Supras , Hondas etc... And at least it's someone that I trust fully. I guess everyone has to start working on Porsches at some point. I do want to send a special thanks to Sam for all his guidance and help.
Owning this car for the past 10 years, you can't imagine how many times I've been burned by local Porsche shops. I know there are things that I'm missing but so far what are your thoughts? Any advice?

 

awesome build, and sam has never steered anyone wrong that i've ever heard of. certainly helps me often.

but as i noted in your trans thread. i think you need to re-think the transmission question and whether or not you've adequately addressed that aspect in your "build" sheet, as i'm not certain you have.

though i'll tell anyone that'll listen about the wavertac but it might not be enough, and the plate type is probably better suited to your end goals. the wavetrac is just very effective and cheap. I'm not sure it's the part for a 700/800+ build.

give it some thought and again, it would suck to do all that and have the box be the weak link.

 

A couple of things to consider:

The ProEFI 112 seems to be having some teething issues and when you add up all of the added things like W/B controllers gets pretty expensive. I believe that the 128 may have more I/O too so if you're instrumenting "everything" you may want to make sure you've got enough inputs for whichever box you choose. Before you order I'd suggest talking to Garth at Undercover for some guidance as he obviously knows these boxes well. Full disclosure: I bought my 128 from him and will be taking it to him to be installed and base-tuned.

Talk to Sam and Sean at SRM about intercoolers. I understand your desire to run E85 and that it adds cooling but those guys may have a better solution for you soon. I see no Y-pipe on your list and I'm sure it was an oversight. Sam and Sean again may be able to help you out here! I'll be interested to hear what you choose for a BOV.

The water fittings. I mentioned that same setup not long ago and it was pointed out to me that those fittings are stainless and that I'd be TIGing them into aluminum. You might want to consider using the stock aluminum fittings instead which is what I was advised. Caveat: I've not yet blown one or fixed mine yet, I'm assuming you're welding them. If so be sure to pressure test as a pinhole leak wold suck! Yes, others have had this issue

You said you ordered casings - from where? I think Sam tried to get some previously and raw cast casings showed up If you've found a source for machined casings (or Sam has!) I think lots of folks would be interested in hearing about it!

If you've got a competent mechanic doing the work I think you'll be fine. Talk to Sean and Sam about the special tools needed, Sean has some neat tricks up his sleeve for working on these. Carillo rods will require clearancing things inside and splitting the case (I'm told) - boo! If you can find a less beefy rod you might be able to avoid that. It sounds like you've got to tear this down completely anyway though so this may not matter to you. <shrug> I seem to recall that those rods can be done with different bolts. I've not done it or had it done but this is worth researching to make sure that you've got the strongest assembly possible and don't have to ever do it again!

Good luck, please keep everyone posted and take tons of pictures! I know this hasn't been real pleasant for you but it would really be appreciated if you can help document the pitfalls all along the way for the rest of us.

 

Blk, again thanks for all your input. I already purchased the ProEfi and since Collin is doing the Tune and that's what he suggested I went with it. He's conversed back and forth with Jason and they both made this decision. As for intercoolers Sam thinks that they will work great. I didn't forget the Y-pipe, I'm waiting on Sam to give me my options, I'm thinking 2 1/2 or 3" with one Tial 50mm BOV. Torque sollution does make the fittings in Alluminum as that's what I received. Sam ended up sending me A set of Casings from TimNYC so that ended well. The Carillo rod I got were the ones with the upgraded Hardware. Thanks again as your insight is always appreciated.

 

look for a 4.0 oil pump instead of the gt3. no machining needed to install the carol rods.
also don't waste your time with the coolant fittings. just pull the factory units clean and weld them
use raceware head bolts not arp
3082 going to need high rpm to see full boost way so lag a turbo? 3073 or 6262 precisions would fit the power better

 

I'm sorry maybe I should have clarified that all these items I already have except for the Wavetrac, Axels, turbos and IPD. Some of the items to me are like Pepsi and Coke so I went with Collin's preference like the Carrillo rods etc...

 

nothing wrong with carrillos. my post was to try to save you from doing this all over again. talk to some of the folks who have done this yrs ago they have the proven parts to run. again its your build so have at it but when certain parts done perform remember you asked

carrilo rods require that oil pump has to be clearance or the rods hit. 4.0 pump is thinner and doesn't need clearance. gt3 pump does. head work is critical that the person knows were to grind and not to grind. slip up and your losing power. your running stock rpm limit or cams are needed. since your limit is approx 7500 rpm your 3082 will be laggy more of a mile turbo not a road race or 1/4 mile turbo at all. roll racing with these and its over before you get into the max boost. just saying

 

tq raceware to 60, not 45. build a hot box to heat cycle your block or you will be pulling the motor just to re-torque the studs

 

How much better is the alpha 3076's for 1/4 mile or 40-140 rolls

 

[QUOTE="itguy;4287894"]tq raceware to 60, not 45. build a hot box to heat cycle your block or you will be pulling the motor just to re-torque the studs[/QUOTE
Hey Sean, How hot and how long of a heat cycle?

 

Sounds badaZZ Danny! Good luck man!

 

[QUOTE=turbodanny;4287898]Credit to timnyc for this info, same temp as the water would get, 12 hours. When I pulled my motor and retorqued mine, they were down 5-8ftlbs

 

raceware requires a retorque after 2 full heat cycles. this requires an engine drop to get to the bolts. cam timing plates are required as well to hold everything in place. this is why most a car shop that has the specialty tools needed for a proper build.

 

its better than the 3082 but 3071 or precision turbos will do the job better. as for rolls i don't know its not my form of racing. i do 1/4 and 1/2

 

I didn't see where you said you had racewear studs yet, just wanted to chime in and say if you want arps i have a set you can have but you'll pull the motor later and replace em.

Definately heat cycle the motor, retorque the studs, at least once id recomend more then once to be honest. The labor to drop motor and retorque sucks.

I dont see listed anything for the inlet Pipes, Boost hoses, Y pipe/TB, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Gasket Set, Bearings for the crank and Rods, Head Gasket cut out around O-Ring's. Also a good upgrade is the updated Lifters.