Sam's Billets and otger goodies enroute!!
I definitely have respect for everyone's opinion. Mind you we already have a GIAC tune with no cost upgrade At this level. It will cost a little more to jump up to the next level on anyone's tune now. I guess to each their own. It depends if you're dealing with someone who has experience and will back you up or not. Again I respect everyone but not my first rodeo and definitely not GIAC's LOL. Don't worry I'll eat my feet if I'm wrong gents.
If he is not paying for a tune to upgrade to the Billet K16, then it is a no brainer as GIAC knows what they are doing also! Once they are tuning for power within his fueling capabilities, which for sure GIAC is going to do, he is fine! Bang for buck you are on the right track, but know that your set up has a good bit more in it if you choose in the future to upgrade your injectors.
Also I had a killer set up from EPL with 72lbs and billet K16 and we never touched my MASS flow btw.
Bang for buck and for future potential the set up you are going with is going to be a nice street set up.
Enjoy!
How much really is on the table with injectors if you are on pump 93 only? Running 100 or any race gas or meth, i understand you can do better with injectors...1.4+ bars. But with just pump 93, is there really that much difference injector or just 5bar?
You can make a little more torque with injectors. There is simply not enough fuel and that is why it's kept controlled in this current tuning. But then once you do injectors there are a few other things you can do as always you know. Plus then you could also do even better by adding a fuel pump and inlet pipes etc. etc.
The good thing is Brock is going to add 100 hp this weekend and later if he wants he can add another!
Remember guys, no one is saying what's right and what's wrong. Just for Brock for now. This will work and it will work pretty great. If he wants more we will plug it in. No sweat
The good thing is Brock is going to add 100 hp this weekend and later if he wants he can add another!
Remember guys, no one is saying what's right and what's wrong. Just for Brock for now. This will work and it will work pretty great. If he wants more we will plug it in. No sweat
Last edited by SamboTT@ByDesign; Apr 4, 2015 at 10:11 AM.
Hi guys the trans is out! The DIY by Talisman is great but I will have to add a line to it regarding removal. The crash brace located on top of the trans housing bolts the trans to the chassis. It was a bear to get to and remove. Long extensions and an air ratchet finally got it. Overall a very tight fit to pass the trans by the coolant lines that cross UNDER the front of trans. Attachment 417733 Attachment 417734
A pic of the inspection hole on drivers side. The left hole is where the 10mm bolt holds the retainer clip. The right is the shaft cover hole. I used a 6mm bolt to thread in to slide shaft out. More to come!
A pic of the inspection hole on drivers side. The left hole is where the 10mm bolt holds the retainer clip. The right is the shaft cover hole. I used a 6mm bolt to thread in to slide shaft out. More to come!
Last edited by brockster; Apr 4, 2015 at 12:05 PM.
Pulled flywheel today. RMS is leaking. Checked flywheel with a table dial. 0.008" max swing so not gonna replace or turn it. Should be good to go after scuffing and cleaning. Pressure washed trans. (pretty grimey) ordering RMS and will change slave and accumulator while I'm waiting for it to arrive. Will replace fluid in gearbox. Redline? OEM?
Last edited by brockster; Apr 5, 2015 at 09:52 PM.
even with keeping the slave the other 2 mods are virtually free and much easier to do with the trans out.
it was in a thread by pwderhound. i haven't tried it yet but my driveline coming out in the next couple weeks. it should allow for better firmer shifting. the ball bearing adds tension to keep the pop out from happening. cost is only a 8mm bearing




!