Fadi -

OFF on the plex technically isn't off, it is just one of the presets - which you can define a base duty, boost limit or any other variable. You can also rename the preset - mine is "METH OFF" - when my METH is turned off.




If the duty is above 0% then this is why your not seeing waste gate spring pressure. Its also why your seeing a boost limit. Customize the preset to the settings you want.

Next - connecting the aquamist failsafe. The way that I have it setup is following:

Connect the white failsafe wire on the aquamist to one of the switch (either grey wire) of the plex controller. Then you want to connect the black wire for the aquamist to an earth or ground it to the chassis. Having it setup like this means that as soon as the aquamist triggers a failsafe, or is turned off, it sends a signal to the plex switch.





Now there is 2 grey wires. One is switch 1 and the other is switch 2. Technically you can connect it to either and then adjust it in the controller.




If you go to section 5.7 in the controller menu, you will see the switch dialogue. At this point turn off the aquamist. You will see either switch 1 or switch 2 change to "ON" at the bottom of the menu. Based on this you will know which grey wire you have hooked the failsafe too.

The next step is then to adjust the plex and decide what you want the boost controller to do when the failsafe happens. You can either limit boost (which opens the solenoid entirely) or as I do, set the switch to the preset that you want. In my case this is the "METH OFF" settings.





By doing it the way I have it setup, allows me to switch the controller off, but still adjust the boost for when the METH isn't running. For instance, I run 30% duty which is 1.2bar when the METH turns off. This is above my spring setting

 

Next up - closed loop vs open loop. Once you have a feeling for what duty cycle gives what boost in open loop, I would consider switching to close loop.

in close loop you want to set a base duty (50% for me is 1.45bar). I set my base duty slightly lower, say 47% and then I set my target boost to 1.45bar.

Next you want to set the PID to 0,0,0. Doing this basically makes the closed loop act like an open loop. Do a test and make sure you boost is staying below you 1.45bar. Look at your logs, the controller is holding the boost pretty consistent so you should be fine.

Next you want to add some P - I would start with 20. This is you gain. Test it again, and increase it until you spike past 1.45bar. My P is set to 30.

Then you want to add I. I would start with 10. Adding to much here will cause the boost curve to oscillate up and down. Which is what you want it to do, because this corrects a spike, but you do not want to do it to much. My I is set at 8.

To correct the oscillations you want to ad a small amount of D - which effectively dampens the system. My D is set to 8.

Now each car is different. And depending on the boost you want to run, the spring pressure and other elements this will change. It takes a little while to get right, but the benefits is that no matter what weather or gear, my boost is stable and consistant.

The other benefit of the closed loop setting is spool. I worked with Plex and they updated the software so that it keeps the solenoid closed to help with spool up. The P and I also help with this. Ive attached a graph of your 60% meth log with my 50% base duty Meth Log.





First of, you can see how much quicker I have my turbos spooling (and they are 3073s). This was in about 70 deg weather.

Second - and its a little hard to see, but I have the boost ramping to 1.45bar (on the gauge - durametric registers 2500mbar), then at 4500rpm I start adding more boost by rpm. At this point the PID takes over and starts to add boost to try and hit the new target boost. I set a new target every 500rpm and by 7K I am at 1.7bar. You can see the boost start increasing at 4500, but at 2543mbar the dramatic can not measure any higher as it is the limit of the 2.5bar map sensor.

Here is a copy of my log.

 

YOU ROCK !!! I cant thank you enough for this complete answer, you spent a lot of time for those pics too, really great, thank you! Looking forward now to set up the beast

Healthy looking log, gobs of torque from down low and boost comes way sooner than my setup, what turbo(3073 ok)/intake/exhaust/ic setup are you running?

I have a feeling that setting up correctly Plex will shift my curves to the left, I have gtx2863 with ALL supporting mods (4.5ICs might not help here for spool) and see 1bar @3650rpms only..

 

Sorry it took me longer than it should have to get back to you. The Plex is an amazing controller. There is a bunch of failsafes I have setup with lambda, AIT and engine temp. I'm also running a fuel pressure sensor to it as well checking differential pressure which has been very nice.

 

I'm running 3" fender intakes with filter next to the intercooler ducts. I also have ducts under the car that are feeding air to the filters.

I have 3.5"ics, ipd ypipe, 75mm throttle and ipd plenum. 3" catless exhaust with magnaflow mufflers where the cats are like proto setup.

I can tell based on your logs that we have the same tuner.

 

Nicely write up LQQK.

I am also using boost by rev and a boost ramp. My target boost shows a delay by about 500 revs compared to what really is measured and that's why I shifted the target on the Plex by 500 rpm and the graph shows the resulting curves (blue is boost, green is target, red is DC and purple is I). I try to keep P and I as low as possible by manually tweaking the system to be as close as possible to what I want before I let P and I do the rest. After the target is initially met, the P stays at zero.

The light blue marker is the torque maximum (around 870).

 

Gt996 - thanks for the graph. This shows exactly what I was trying to explain to Fadi.

Like you I noted actual boost trailed target boost by about 500rpm as well. Increasing P and I helped but I found that it would overshoot again, so I ended up doing the same as you and off setting my target.

When I asked you about your tuning, I didn't know you were running the plex. How did you create that log if you don't mind me asking.

I remember that your also using a 4bar map sensor. Can you give me some more information on how you managed that?

 

The 4bar map sensor paired with Plex not the ECU, right ?
Would be great to be able to "see" above 25psi

 

Old school logging *lol*: use the logging data in the Plex controller and write everything to a piece of paper and from there to my Excel sheet. Don't ask how many times I did that. It would be nice if one could just log the data directly to a PC or USB stick.

This chart shows a 4.26 second 100-200 km/h run in 4th gear. For that short time frame I think Plex is doing a very good job.

I think you don't refer to the map sensor of the Plex, which is 4 bar standard, I guess. Yes, I have a 4 bar MAP sensor to enable the ECU to read the boost above 1.5 bar. I am running mafless. Doing this is very easy: just a change in the tune.

However: the boost data that goes to the CAN bus is still limited. You can't log real boost, although the ECU can process it.

Andreas

 

Do you have the part number for the 4bar map? Also does the durametric support this with the logs??

I'm curious if the Cobb will support it.

 

I will get it for you. My car is in an external garage right now, so I can't check it. When it's back, I will look for it.

Durametric won't be able to log these values because the value for the CAN bus is stored in a single byte.

The Cobb software should be able to manipulate the sensor data. I'm not sure how their software work, but if you can enter values instead of selecting a specific sensor type as kind of a part selection, then you are good to go.