Looking for tips on a clutch job 996 turbo
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 269
From: Kansas City MO
Rep Power: 35
So many ways to skin a cat!! Here is my perspective since I just did my clutch a couple months ago.
Make sure whatever kit you buy, you know the part numbers in the kit. XYZ company v ABC company may both sell a "2.5" kit but have totally different parts. I almost went with the 764 PP and the 1098 rigid disc. (You have to pair the actual disc with the flywheel)
Dual mass you can do spring hub disc or get away with a rigid hub disc (which normally carry and higher trq rating) but a single mass flywheel with a rigid hub disc everyone hates.
I opted to keep the DMD flywheel because I could get a clutch with a little higher trq rating than what I could with the LWFW (and some complain of noise)
I also got a smoking deal on a new flywheel so that helped with the decision
I am SO SO SO SO SO SO, did I say SO glad I did the gt2 slave conversion while the trans was out. The clutch I had in there previously was really on/off and very difficult to drive. I pretty much have the same clutch now that I did before, but it's WAY easier to drive since I did the GT2 conv.
I think for me, that's part of the reason I love it so much. I don't find it terribly stuff either, BUT I had no pedal spring before. So there were a couple different variables that led to me loving it so much.
If you can, find a gt2 or gt3 and push the clutch pedal...thats what it will feel like. And I never have to worry about the failure prone turbo parts again. Bascially for the cost on one slave and accumulator replacement, you "fix" the design.
I also drilled off the shifter weights and installed new turbo inlets while the trans was out.
Good luck!
Make sure whatever kit you buy, you know the part numbers in the kit. XYZ company v ABC company may both sell a "2.5" kit but have totally different parts. I almost went with the 764 PP and the 1098 rigid disc. (You have to pair the actual disc with the flywheel)
Dual mass you can do spring hub disc or get away with a rigid hub disc (which normally carry and higher trq rating) but a single mass flywheel with a rigid hub disc everyone hates.
I opted to keep the DMD flywheel because I could get a clutch with a little higher trq rating than what I could with the LWFW (and some complain of noise)
I also got a smoking deal on a new flywheel so that helped with the decision
I am SO SO SO SO SO SO, did I say SO glad I did the gt2 slave conversion while the trans was out. The clutch I had in there previously was really on/off and very difficult to drive. I pretty much have the same clutch now that I did before, but it's WAY easier to drive since I did the GT2 conv.
I think for me, that's part of the reason I love it so much. I don't find it terribly stuff either, BUT I had no pedal spring before. So there were a couple different variables that led to me loving it so much.
If you can, find a gt2 or gt3 and push the clutch pedal...thats what it will feel like. And I never have to worry about the failure prone turbo parts again. Bascially for the cost on one slave and accumulator replacement, you "fix" the design.
I also drilled off the shifter weights and installed new turbo inlets while the trans was out.
Good luck!
They claim to be the creators of the so called 2.5 kit. I will get the part #s.
I'm also leaning towards keeping the dual mass flywheel as a noise in the transmission will likely drive me nuts lol.
So the GT2 conversion is simply swapping out the slave cylinder for a GT2 unit? How do they differ? and what is the reasoning behind doing it?
Thanks
Malcolm
Banned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,551
From: tn
Rep Power: 628
sabot is a vendor on here sells the clutch you need and second to none in customer service. his company is by design.
unless you have a low profile trans jack you won't be able to use any other kind with the car join jack stands. trans weighs about 150 lbs so eat your wheaties. also you can't put any pressure on the clutch or you will crack it while reinstalling the trans.
you need a 28 spline clutch tool to line everything up.
gt2 conversion is not 3 times heavier but it does give you the proper feel. like a clutch should feel like. having a power steering assisted slave takes the engagement feel away and is a known failure point. you will replace it more times than you will want to. do the gt2 conversion and forget about it. also after its done if you have to drop the trans again its 2 13mm nuts removed and the slave slides out and gives more room to work
swap requires slave, master cylinder and removal of the p/s unit to remove a coupler from the back. petosin lines to the old slave capped off and a full flush with dot 4 fluid. then drill the trans for new slave mounts, clearance the inside with a dremel for the new clutch fork and reinstall. ez peavy!
heres a great place to start researching
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...onversion.html
unless you have a low profile trans jack you won't be able to use any other kind with the car join jack stands. trans weighs about 150 lbs so eat your wheaties. also you can't put any pressure on the clutch or you will crack it while reinstalling the trans.
you need a 28 spline clutch tool to line everything up.
gt2 conversion is not 3 times heavier but it does give you the proper feel. like a clutch should feel like. having a power steering assisted slave takes the engagement feel away and is a known failure point. you will replace it more times than you will want to. do the gt2 conversion and forget about it. also after its done if you have to drop the trans again its 2 13mm nuts removed and the slave slides out and gives more room to work
swap requires slave, master cylinder and removal of the p/s unit to remove a coupler from the back. petosin lines to the old slave capped off and a full flush with dot 4 fluid. then drill the trans for new slave mounts, clearance the inside with a dremel for the new clutch fork and reinstall. ez peavy!
heres a great place to start researching
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...onversion.html
Last edited by 32krazy!; Apr 24, 2015 at 05:57 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 269
From: Kansas City MO
Rep Power: 35
sabot is a vendor on here sells the clutch you need and second to none in customer service. his company is by design.
unless you have a low profile trans jack you won't be able to use any other kind with the car join jack stands. trans weighs about 150 lbs so eat your wheaties. also you can't put any pressure on the clutch or you will crack it while reinstalling the trans.
you need a 28 spline clutch tool to line everything up.
gt2 conversion is not 3 times heavier but it does give you the proper feel. like a clutch should feel like. having a power steering assisted slave takes the engagement feel away and is a known failure point. you will replace it more times than you will want to. do the gt2 conversion and forget about it. also after its done if you have to drop the trans again its 2 13mm nuts removed and the slave slides out and gives more room to work
swap requires slave, master cylinder and removal of the p/s unit to remove a coupler from the back. petosin lines to the old slave capped off and a full flush with dot 4 fluid. then drill the trans for new slave mounts, clearance the inside with a dremel for the new clutch fork and reinstall. ez peavy!
heres a great place to start researching
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...onversion.html
unless you have a low profile trans jack you won't be able to use any other kind with the car join jack stands. trans weighs about 150 lbs so eat your wheaties. also you can't put any pressure on the clutch or you will crack it while reinstalling the trans.
you need a 28 spline clutch tool to line everything up.
gt2 conversion is not 3 times heavier but it does give you the proper feel. like a clutch should feel like. having a power steering assisted slave takes the engagement feel away and is a known failure point. you will replace it more times than you will want to. do the gt2 conversion and forget about it. also after its done if you have to drop the trans again its 2 13mm nuts removed and the slave slides out and gives more room to work
swap requires slave, master cylinder and removal of the p/s unit to remove a coupler from the back. petosin lines to the old slave capped off and a full flush with dot 4 fluid. then drill the trans for new slave mounts, clearance the inside with a dremel for the new clutch fork and reinstall. ez peavy!
heres a great place to start researching
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...onversion.html
I wish I could feel one somewhere and decide before going to the trouble of converting it and going oh crap I liked the original better and swapping back lol.
150 lbs is no joke. I have a cast iron 4.6 block sitting in my garage that's 154 lbs so I know exactly what it's going to feel like and I can tell that's gonna suck big time lol. I'll definitely have a buddy or two on hand when that's coming out.
Thanks for the link too. More good reading
Banned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,551
From: tn
Rep Power: 628
Ah thanks for the info. Now I'm getting it, so you guys are swapping to the GT2 slave to get rid of the power assist. Earlier I was thinking guys were saying it's a GT2 clutch conversion, but it's the slave that you're converting.
I wish I could feel one somewhere and decide before going to the trouble of converting it and going oh crap I liked the original better and swapping back lol.
150 lbs is no joke. I have a cast iron 4.6 block sitting in my garage that's 154 lbs so I know exactly what it's going to feel like and I can tell that's gonna suck big time lol. I'll definitely have a buddy or two on hand when that's coming out.
Thanks for the link too. More good reading
I wish I could feel one somewhere and decide before going to the trouble of converting it and going oh crap I liked the original better and swapping back lol.
150 lbs is no joke. I have a cast iron 4.6 block sitting in my garage that's 154 lbs so I know exactly what it's going to feel like and I can tell that's gonna suck big time lol. I'll definitely have a buddy or two on hand when that's coming out.
Thanks for the link too. More good reading
if theres any way to gain access to a lift your life will be much easier. even for a day its worth it
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 269
From: Kansas City MO
Rep Power: 35
the main issue you will find is with the car on jack stands theres just no room for more than one person. most of the work is done by feel not sight. i can't think of anyone that did the conversion and regretted it.
if theres any way to gain access to a lift your life will be much easier. even for a day its worth it
if theres any way to gain access to a lift your life will be much easier. even for a day its worth it
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,512
From: Illinois
Rep Power: 132
I helped do a clutch job on a buddys turbo. The only really bad part was the blind way to get the pin in the fork. We thought we were doing something really wrong granted how ridiculous it was. Rest was just normal knuckle busting work. When I do mine I plan to read up on all the tips and tricks though. Its Def not like pulling a trans from a mustang camaro, vette, ect...
Banned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,551
From: tn
Rep Power: 628
http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-...ack-69685.html
this goes 22.5" high. so i bolted a couple 4x4 to the base. ditch the chain and use a strap. at 2 ft high its just right to lay on your back on a creeper and use the lift.
also remove the pass side upper trans mount rod. double nut it and turn it out. its longer than the others and it helps get it out.
while your at h./f get a borescope for about 69$. its invaluable when installing the clutch rod. ill pm you my cell. call with any questions during the swap. i feel like i can do this in my sleep now!
Registered User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 444
From: SC
Rep Power: 58
I helped do a clutch job on a buddys turbo. The only really bad part was the blind way to get the pin in the fork. We thought we were doing something really wrong granted how ridiculous it was. Rest was just normal knuckle busting work. When I do mine I plan to read up on all the tips and tricks though. Its Def not like pulling a trans from a mustang camaro, vette, ect...
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 269
From: Kansas City MO
Rep Power: 35
ok your on a maxjax thats what i use heres what you need to do this.
http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-...ack-69685.html
this goes 22.5" high. so i bolted a couple 4x4 to the base. ditch the chain and use a strap. at 2 ft high its just right to lay on your back on a creeper and use the lift.
also remove the pass side upper trans mount rod. double nut it and turn it out. its longer than the others and it helps get it out.
while your at h./f get a borescope for about 69$. its invaluable when installing the clutch rod. ill pm you my cell. call with any questions during the swap. i feel like i can do this in my sleep now!
http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-...ack-69685.html
this goes 22.5" high. so i bolted a couple 4x4 to the base. ditch the chain and use a strap. at 2 ft high its just right to lay on your back on a creeper and use the lift.
also remove the pass side upper trans mount rod. double nut it and turn it out. its longer than the others and it helps get it out.
while your at h./f get a borescope for about 69$. its invaluable when installing the clutch rod. ill pm you my cell. call with any questions during the swap. i feel like i can do this in my sleep now!
Motor had a ticking sound of sorts. So had to pull this out and tear it down.
Fun stuff
I have to build the short block this weekend and hopefully next week the heads come back from the machine shop. Should have it all back in and done by next weekend as long as all parts come in on schedule.
Once that's done and out I'll pull the 911 in for the clutch.
Banned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,551
From: tn
Rep Power: 628
call anytime. fwiw if you just have k24/18 and a craptronic tune its more likely about 550 awhp not 650. did the p/o do any fueling work? no tor sockets needed for the trans to engine nuts. metric nuts and studs to the block.
check the trans rubber bushing mount while its out. with your mileage if it hasn't been replaced its probably cracked. window weld is a cheap fix that stiffens it up a good bit
check the trans rubber bushing mount while its out. with your mileage if it hasn't been replaced its probably cracked. window weld is a cheap fix that stiffens it up a good bit
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 269
From: Kansas City MO
Rep Power: 35
call anytime. fwiw if you just have k24/18 and a craptronic tune its more likely about 550 awhp not 650. did the p/o do any fueling work? no tor sockets needed for the trans to engine nuts. metric nuts and studs to the block.
check the trans rubber bushing mount while its out. with your mileage if it hasn't been replaced its probably cracked. window weld is a cheap fix that stiffens it up a good bit
check the trans rubber bushing mount while its out. with your mileage if it hasn't been replaced its probably cracked. window weld is a cheap fix that stiffens it up a good bit
Who are the go to guys for tuning these cars? Is better power an option with my k24/18 turbos? I'm not looking to go insane with the 996 just yet. My yellow car is already a crazy insane monster, I quite like the 996 been civil but quick.
No torque sockets needed? only certain models have those? I have a few from my BMW anyways, possibly those would fit if it did come up.
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 269
From: Kansas City MO
Rep Power: 35
Nice dude. I need to find out about the local cars and coffee meet you guys have. I hear the Porsche guys get together every Saturday morning. I want to come out and meet everyone
Banned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,551
From: tn
Rep Power: 628
None that I'm aware of. I haven't pulled any of the covers though and inspected the fuel system myself but he listed nothing. I take it you're not a fan of the softronic tunes. They suck? 550 awhp sounds more realistic the way the car feels. I wouldn't mind finding a local four wheel dyno and testing it out.
Who are the go to guys for tuning these cars? Is better power an option with my k24/18 turbos? I'm not looking to go insane with the 996 just yet. My yellow car is already a crazy insane monster, I quite like the 996 been civil but quick.
No torque sockets needed? only certain models have those? I have a few from my BMW anyways, possibly those would fit if it did come up.
Who are the go to guys for tuning these cars? Is better power an option with my k24/18 turbos? I'm not looking to go insane with the 996 just yet. My yellow car is already a crazy insane monster, I quite like the 996 been civil but quick.
No torque sockets needed? only certain models have those? I have a few from my BMW anyways, possibly those would fit if it did come up.
search member john speed on here. he has a great proto tuned k24/18 setup. about 625 to the wheels and zero issues. if your running k24/118 and tune there should be fueling upgrades. your idc is going to be maxed at factory injectors and a single pump . silly rabbit motorsports has a great fuel system and good for 1000+ hp.
i actually have 2 drivelines sitting in my garage right now. ill take some pics for you to give you an idea of what your going to be doing on your back. i have to drop one of the trans for a shift fork replacement .
Last edited by 32krazy!; Apr 25, 2015 at 02:53 PM.
