Upgraded aero and brakes for 996tt
#31
Originally Posted by pwdrhound
Hey Kai,
I just looked up the uprights in the 2005 996Cup maintenance manual and ordered those. I think they may be the same parts as on the street cars actually. The RSR uprights have a lower pickup point which gives you lower roll centers. If you end up going with the RSR fronts then you will also need to go with the RSR rear subframes, cross members, wheel carriers, etc. so that you match the roll center of the fronts. The RSR wheel carriers do not have provisions for a parking brake if I recall. I may be cheaper to install all 997GT3 stuff as the geometry is better on those compared to the 996 and you can get it relatively cheap if someone is parting out a wreck. I almost bought a complete set of 997GT3 uprights with rear subframes and the rest of the parts a few months back. Unfortunately someone beat me to it. The 996 is not bad but it helps to run stiffer springs to compensate.
I just looked up the uprights in the 2005 996Cup maintenance manual and ordered those. I think they may be the same parts as on the street cars actually. The RSR uprights have a lower pickup point which gives you lower roll centers. If you end up going with the RSR fronts then you will also need to go with the RSR rear subframes, cross members, wheel carriers, etc. so that you match the roll center of the fronts. The RSR wheel carriers do not have provisions for a parking brake if I recall. I may be cheaper to install all 997GT3 stuff as the geometry is better on those compared to the 996 and you can get it relatively cheap if someone is parting out a wreck. I almost bought a complete set of 997GT3 uprights with rear subframes and the rest of the parts a few months back. Unfortunately someone beat me to it. The 996 is not bad but it helps to run stiffer springs to compensate.
PN 996-341-157/158-91 or 996-341-657/658-91
The GT3RS uses the same front spindle geometry as the GT3RSR. But the bolt spacing for the RSR is different(not sure about all 996 RSR).
The 997GT3 spindle is the same geometry as the 996 GT3RS/RSR, but is setup for the newer style ABS sensors. So those won't work unless you redrill the ABS mounting holes. If you can get your hands on the 997GT3Cup spindles you will be in business. They use the same ABS sensor style as the 996. As far as the subframe, their was a guy that did the RSR spindles front and rear and just had the subframes machined to match the RSR subframes.
#32
John, if the biggest difference between the CUP ABS and the Boxster ABS is programming I cannot help but wonder what it would take to reprogram a Boxster unit. Would be nice if the OEM unit could be reprogrammed so as not to lose functionality of the dashboard but that would be even more difficult. I'm surprised it seems no one has looked into at least reprogramming a Boxster unit considering the costs involved. Are these completely sealed up units?
#33
Originally Posted by BLKMGK
John, if the biggest difference between the CUP ABS and the Boxster ABS is programming I cannot help but wonder what it would take to reprogram a Boxster unit. Would be nice if the OEM unit could be reprogrammed so as not to lose functionality of the dashboard but that would be even more difficult. I'm surprised it seems no one has looked into at least reprogramming a Boxster unit considering the costs involved. Are these completely sealed up units?
http://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman-a...onversion.html
#34
Actually just read that thread tonight :-) End of the day there's a PROM of some sort storing the programming. If the hardware really is Boxster and the only change is the software aka firmware then depending upon the trouble to get inside it and the chip used it might be possible to "upgrade" a Boxster unit. Certainly it would be easier if the devices could be programmed without opening them up but I doubt it would be that easy and if it were you'd need access to tools that I doubt Porsche lets loose in the world. The BMW E36 unit has been cracked, I'm wondering if anyone has taken a shot at the 996 unit? At 5-8K a shot and lots of people suffering there seems to be incentive...
#35
Originally Posted by BLKMGK
Actually just read that thread tonight :-) End of the day there's a PROM of some sort storing the programming. If the hardware really is Boxster and the only change is the software aka firmware then depending upon the trouble to get inside it and the chip used it might be possible to "upgrade" a Boxster unit. Certainly it would be easier if the devices could be programmed without opening them up but I doubt it would be that easy and if it were you'd need access to tools that I doubt Porsche lets loose in the world. The BMW E36 unit has been cracked, I'm wondering if anyone has taken a shot at the 996 unit? At 5-8K a shot and lots of people suffering there seems to be incentive...
As far as the prom, i am sure anything can be done. Especially if you can het to the chip. But my experiences with bosch ABS modules is the boards where the chips live are usually coated in a tenacious jelly hermetic seal. This stuff is a nightmare. Module masters rebuilds many of these and may actually have some ideas.
As far as ABS goes, their is a guy that advises many motorsports teams about ABS and sells ABS systems as well. He is the guru about ABS. I will look up his info tomorrow,
#36
John, if the biggest difference between the CUP ABS and the Boxster ABS is programming I cannot help but wonder what it would take to reprogram a Boxster unit. Would be nice if the OEM unit could be reprogrammed so as not to lose functionality of the dashboard but that would be even more difficult. I'm surprised it seems no one has looked into at least reprogramming a Boxster unit considering the costs involved. Are these completely sealed up units?
#37
Guys, just a quick question to you as I am considering ordering these days some suspension upgrades for my car.
I have just bought RSS suspension parts - LCA fronts+rears, dog bones, toe, semi-solid engine mounts, dog bones, etc...
I am running KW v3 suspension and thinking to upgrade to Clubsport mounts, would this be a good idea or having already RSS components and being able to run more camber and toe would be enough?
Also I have ordered at some time a KW spring repair kit consisting in this springs KW for the BACK
Spring 20-60-80
KW spring 110-170
Now KW dealer recommends me the following:
You will need for the front axle:
*2x 19000715 KW clubsport top mount
.2x 65243226 Adjustable spring perch
2x 60110023 Spring KW70-140*
2x 60110028 Spring KW10-60-80
2x 65350412 Stainless steel – bushing
2x 65210030 Bump stop
2x 65245009 Dust cover
2x 65243000 Intermediate ring
*
and for the rear axle
2x 19000716 KW clubsport top mount
Should I jump on this upgrade or just skip it, sell the KW v3 and buy some motorsport coil overs ? The price of this upgrade is like 1300-1400$, car will be used mostly for track events/time attack but will see also like 1000 miles/year on the street
I have just bought RSS suspension parts - LCA fronts+rears, dog bones, toe, semi-solid engine mounts, dog bones, etc...
I am running KW v3 suspension and thinking to upgrade to Clubsport mounts, would this be a good idea or having already RSS components and being able to run more camber and toe would be enough?
Also I have ordered at some time a KW spring repair kit consisting in this springs KW for the BACK
Spring 20-60-80
KW spring 110-170
Now KW dealer recommends me the following:
You will need for the front axle:
*2x 19000715 KW clubsport top mount
.2x 65243226 Adjustable spring perch
2x 60110023 Spring KW70-140*
2x 60110028 Spring KW10-60-80
2x 65350412 Stainless steel – bushing
2x 65210030 Bump stop
2x 65245009 Dust cover
2x 65243000 Intermediate ring
*
and for the rear axle
2x 19000716 KW clubsport top mount
Should I jump on this upgrade or just skip it, sell the KW v3 and buy some motorsport coil overs ? The price of this upgrade is like 1300-1400$, car will be used mostly for track events/time attack but will see also like 1000 miles/year on the street
#38
It's always a good idea to get rid of the sloppy stock upper mounts. You don't have to buy KW specific mounts though. I took my old JIC mounts and put my V3's on them.
Speaking of which, my initial review of the V3's is that they are too soft for heavy track use, you can feel the car squating way too much under acceleration. However, they are very well built shocks. You can have them revalved and they will be just as good as the clubsports. The real difference is that the clubsports come with top mounts and have a few minor upgraded components along with more trackable spring rates. It's questionable if the CS have different valving, though KW will tell you it does as the spring rates are only slightly heavier vs the V3. In fact, KW will actually revalve your V3 to CS specs if you send the shock to them showing you that the difference is not that significant.
You will have to do a cost analysis, if you have the V3's and then buy mounts/springs and revalve will that be more than just buying the CS to begin with and selling your CS. If you buy some springs ($60-80 a piece from KW) and revalve your V3's (should be about $150-200 per shock).
KW clubsport (with top mounts) are about 6k. You could probably get 2500 or so for your V3's. Delta of 3500. It will cost you much less than that to make what you have just as good or better. I'm sending my shocks to a guy in NJ recommended by one of my mechanics who does all of his rebuilds for pro race teams. Customed valved for your exact choice of spring rates is always better then OTS (off the shelf) and like I said, it's only a slight bump in rate.
However I have seen on rennlist someone selling the CS for about 3k. It was someone in Europe. I'm going to take my chances with speaking with the guy whos valving and rebuilding them to my preferences, which is important because you usually only have max about 150lbs of delta (up or down) with spring changes before you need another revalve. The CS are more suited for track out of the box than V3, but will it be enough for your application?
Speaking of which, my initial review of the V3's is that they are too soft for heavy track use, you can feel the car squating way too much under acceleration. However, they are very well built shocks. You can have them revalved and they will be just as good as the clubsports. The real difference is that the clubsports come with top mounts and have a few minor upgraded components along with more trackable spring rates. It's questionable if the CS have different valving, though KW will tell you it does as the spring rates are only slightly heavier vs the V3. In fact, KW will actually revalve your V3 to CS specs if you send the shock to them showing you that the difference is not that significant.
You will have to do a cost analysis, if you have the V3's and then buy mounts/springs and revalve will that be more than just buying the CS to begin with and selling your CS. If you buy some springs ($60-80 a piece from KW) and revalve your V3's (should be about $150-200 per shock).
KW clubsport (with top mounts) are about 6k. You could probably get 2500 or so for your V3's. Delta of 3500. It will cost you much less than that to make what you have just as good or better. I'm sending my shocks to a guy in NJ recommended by one of my mechanics who does all of his rebuilds for pro race teams. Customed valved for your exact choice of spring rates is always better then OTS (off the shelf) and like I said, it's only a slight bump in rate.
However I have seen on rennlist someone selling the CS for about 3k. It was someone in Europe. I'm going to take my chances with speaking with the guy whos valving and rebuilding them to my preferences, which is important because you usually only have max about 150lbs of delta (up or down) with spring changes before you need another revalve. The CS are more suited for track out of the box than V3, but will it be enough for your application?
Last edited by heavychevy; 01-03-2016 at 01:58 AM.
#39
Sometimes I feel the road racing community is the strongest and its members are way more open than other racing communities (drag, roll, etc), maybe this comes also from a bit more education and common sense as enthusiasm I guess is everywhere
Not saying that other communities arent helping, but always having the feeling that something isnt on the table..Maybe because having the best car isnt everything and the driver is the key that changes the game.. at some certain moments I felt even this forum (996tt/gt2) to go into the wrong direction, and the old ones here know what I mean by that..
But since going into the road racing route with my car, I have discovered some nice, knowledgeable and open guys here... pwdrhound, kaizu or LqqK just to name a few, also the answer above of Heavychevy is more than I was looking for, thank you guys for being here Great help to the community!!
Thank you Heavy for a great reply to my problem!
I guess will still keep for a while the v3 and see for 2017 if going to change them
Not saying that other communities arent helping, but always having the feeling that something isnt on the table..Maybe because having the best car isnt everything and the driver is the key that changes the game.. at some certain moments I felt even this forum (996tt/gt2) to go into the wrong direction, and the old ones here know what I mean by that..
But since going into the road racing route with my car, I have discovered some nice, knowledgeable and open guys here... pwdrhound, kaizu or LqqK just to name a few, also the answer above of Heavychevy is more than I was looking for, thank you guys for being here Great help to the community!!
Thank you Heavy for a great reply to my problem!
I guess will still keep for a while the v3 and see for 2017 if going to change them
#40
Sometimes I feel the road racing community is the strongest and its members are way more open than other racing communities (drag, roll, etc), maybe this comes also from a bit more education and common sense as enthusiasm I guess is everywhere
Not saying that other communities arent helping, but always having the feeling that something isnt on the table..Maybe because having the best car isnt everything and the driver is the key that changes the game.. at some certain moments I felt even this forum (996tt/gt2) to go into the wrong direction, and the old ones here know what I mean by that..
But since going into the road racing route with my car, I have discovered some nice, knowledgeable and open guys here... pwdrhound, kaizu or LqqK just to name a few, also the answer above of Heavychevy is more than I was looking for, thank you guys for being here Great help to the community!!
Thank you Heavy for a great reply to my problem!
I guess will still keep for a while the v3 and see for 2017 if going to change them
Not saying that other communities arent helping, but always having the feeling that something isnt on the table..Maybe because having the best car isnt everything and the driver is the key that changes the game.. at some certain moments I felt even this forum (996tt/gt2) to go into the wrong direction, and the old ones here know what I mean by that..
But since going into the road racing route with my car, I have discovered some nice, knowledgeable and open guys here... pwdrhound, kaizu or LqqK just to name a few, also the answer above of Heavychevy is more than I was looking for, thank you guys for being here Great help to the community!!
Thank you Heavy for a great reply to my problem!
I guess will still keep for a while the v3 and see for 2017 if going to change them
If it were me, I'd sell the KWs and just get JRZ dual remotes with your choice of springs. Everything is included for a direct bolt on including monoball upper and lower mounts, drip links, etc.. Price is very reasonable with amazing support from JRZ in the Netherlands.
#41
John, to be honest I have spent a lot of money on the new setup during this winter already and not finished yet.. JRZ are another 7000$ or so, have to drive at least the car and be happy, I feel have to stop paying and drive the car more... but temps are freezing outside
This winter/autumn I have done already
gt2 bodykit n- delivery tomorrow
slotted brakes Girodisc, various upgrades of brake lines, spoilers etc
complete suspension RSS/GT3
new engine mounts
new wheels and tires - gt3 19" for now
new boost controller to allow - boost by gear and by rpm
kw upgraded top mounts
just finished my new headers as the old ones cracked badly, they are inequal-hope this isnt a big problem
rebuilt (again) the gearbox as discovered some problems from the old clutch setup
rebuilt my sachs stage3 clutch to stronger specs
my water pump stopped working this autumn
still have to buy: roll cage and hans at a minimum maybe also new steering wheel and multifunction racing display
have to repaint the car in spring for the gt2 looks
labour on top of everything
all after a lot of upgrades in summer
CSF radiators
new gtx2863 turbos
new stiffer springs for kw v3
numeric racing shifter
etc etc etc
and all after a roll racing setup with lots of mods... huhhh.. Life isnt easy , but I am sure the car will be rewarding after all Hope spring to come early this year
This winter/autumn I have done already
gt2 bodykit n- delivery tomorrow
slotted brakes Girodisc, various upgrades of brake lines, spoilers etc
complete suspension RSS/GT3
new engine mounts
new wheels and tires - gt3 19" for now
new boost controller to allow - boost by gear and by rpm
kw upgraded top mounts
just finished my new headers as the old ones cracked badly, they are inequal-hope this isnt a big problem
rebuilt (again) the gearbox as discovered some problems from the old clutch setup
rebuilt my sachs stage3 clutch to stronger specs
my water pump stopped working this autumn
still have to buy: roll cage and hans at a minimum maybe also new steering wheel and multifunction racing display
have to repaint the car in spring for the gt2 looks
labour on top of everything
all after a lot of upgrades in summer
CSF radiators
new gtx2863 turbos
new stiffer springs for kw v3
numeric racing shifter
etc etc etc
and all after a roll racing setup with lots of mods... huhhh.. Life isnt easy , but I am sure the car will be rewarding after all Hope spring to come early this year
#42
I agree with the idea of just staying with KW V3 for a while, it makes no sense to pour more and more money continuously into your project: You have to still have a healthy budget for track day expenses so you don't ever end up in a situation where you begin to worry about costs...
Hone your skill and car setup first with KW V3 and then seek for improvement. I have never seen average folks with $10K shocks beating pro level drivers with ordinary suspensions
As an example, there's better bang for the buck options available, for example trying to fit wider front rims and front wheels would be very beneficial. I may end up trying to fit 265/30/19 Trofeo R next season for the front, yet don't fully like the idea of having them on bit narrow rims (8.75" BBS FI) but that could be something.
Having said that, I might have a KW CS for sale at some point due to a shock upgrade. I would like to test the difference of tuning 3-way or 4-way shocks for bumpy tracks, which I think would be beneficial for me. However, this winter I rather started to do now a preventive engine overhaul.
Hone your skill and car setup first with KW V3 and then seek for improvement. I have never seen average folks with $10K shocks beating pro level drivers with ordinary suspensions
As an example, there's better bang for the buck options available, for example trying to fit wider front rims and front wheels would be very beneficial. I may end up trying to fit 265/30/19 Trofeo R next season for the front, yet don't fully like the idea of having them on bit narrow rims (8.75" BBS FI) but that could be something.
Having said that, I might have a KW CS for sale at some point due to a shock upgrade. I would like to test the difference of tuning 3-way or 4-way shocks for bumpy tracks, which I think would be beneficial for me. However, this winter I rather started to do now a preventive engine overhaul.
#43
Thanks,will get pwdrhound's opinion in 2017, I am sure of that.
Wondering guys if you ever raced a 458 challenge and if our cars are much slower than those, we have a few here and they seem to be the fastest street machines on the local track for now as far as I know, they run full slicks too.
Wondering guys if you ever raced a 458 challenge and if our cars are much slower than those, we have a few here and they seem to be the fastest street machines on the local track for now as far as I know, they run full slicks too.
#44
Thanks,will get pwdrhound's opinion in 2017, I am sure of that.
Wondering guys if you ever raced a 458 challenge and if our cars are much slower than those, we have a few here and they seem to be the fastest street machines on the local track for now as far as I know, they run full slicks too.
Wondering guys if you ever raced a 458 challenge and if our cars are much slower than those, we have a few here and they seem to be the fastest street machines on the local track for now as far as I know, they run full slicks too.
Last edited by pwdrhound; 01-11-2016 at 12:13 PM.
#45
458 challenge cars are about as fast as 997 cups. There just arent many good drivers driving them. You can search around for Ferrari challenge race results and lap records and the times are right on par with 997.2 cups.
It takes extensive mods to run with one that has a legitimate pilot. But those are few and far between.
It takes extensive mods to run with one that has a legitimate pilot. But those are few and far between.