Hey guys. So I'm giving my car a tune up as it's running a bit rough at times (jumpy inconsistent acceleration) so I'm starting with the MAF. Just wondering if anyone is running this one as it's significantly less expensive than others i've seen.... looking at the $120 dollar one from Bremi.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item2

Thanks!

 

Personally, I would buy the Bosch one since it's a well known and reputable parts maker. However, Pelican doesn't usually sell junk.
If you're just trouble shooting, I have 2 good spares I could lend you to try out first. You can PM me if you want.

 

Yeah, I had never seen that maf either and I agree that Pelican normally won't sell a low quality product. Maf is really important so I'd probably go with Bosch but maybe these are good??

Anyway, you can do a test to at least see if it's in spec...

You can test the maf with a DC volt meter.

Pull up the rubber boot covering connections on MAF. You will be testing the pin furthest away from you when standing behind the car. Use the grounding lug of the fuel filter that is near by for ground.

With car off but ignition in position 2 you should get between .9 and 1.1 volts.

Then start the car and get it warmed up and test voltage again. Now you should get 1.2 to 1.5 volts.

 

Before buying a new MAF i would think about a new filter for the gas. Noone ever changes this thing

 

There's definitely a long list of items to check for your symptoms. I would start with the regular maintenance items that you don't have record of being replaced (fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, coils). After a full maintenance tune up, then start looking at replacing parts. Ask me why I have 2 spare good MAFs
Also a pressure leak test would be helpful too.

 

you may be onto something with the "bremi" maf but only because it may in fact be an "off label" bosch? this is how it's listed. "Bremi is an OEM supplier to Porsche"


..and for $120 vs 275 I would sure give it a shot. if it was a pure tawainese knockoff or a refub they'd have to indicate that in the pelican listing. ( NEVER buy a knockoff, ask me how I know )


if you DO go with this, it would be great if you post a follow up on its performance. though throwing parts at a problem is dicey at best, of all parts possible, the maf is a good part to throw!

 

The problem only started after a boost hose came disconnected at the intercooler. this past Sunday.

I hooked the hose back up no problem but this issue wasn't around before that. Don't know if a MAF failure could have had something to do with the hose blow off but it's something I'm going to replace over the winter anyway.

Of course there could be another leak or something.

 

the maf wouldn't ( as i'm sure you know ) have anything at all to do with the hose popping off, nor should reconnecting it impact the maf while the maf ( again ) is one of the best and few wise pre-emptive parts in a part throwing exercise, I think you are a prime candidate for a simple boost leak test. they often reveal leaks we don't even know we had, and the cost is negligible.

 

A boost leak test is something I'll do over the winter... insurance is off the car in a week anyway. I plan to do a bunch of maitenance over the winter... fuel filter, air filter, plugs, coils and maf. I'll add the boost leak test to the list. I'm considering upgrading all the hoses to the Silicon sets that are available too. Installation is probably beyond my capabilities if the engine needs to drop so that may be a spring job for my mechanic.

 

I think your problem started just before your hose popped off initially. How much boost are you making, did you see a spike? Boost hoses don't usually pop off under normal conditions. If it popped off under hard acceleration, you might have an issue with your wastegates causing too much boost. If it popped off when you took your foot off the gas after hard acceleration then it could be your diverter valves not opening, creating high back pressure on your hoses. Check all the small vacuum/boost hoses associated with the wastegates and diverter valves.

 

No need to drop the engine to change the large boost hoses. You only need to remove the bumper, you could do it at the same time as your plugs and coils.

 

here is how you do a test the right way... start with that... you will be surprised what you find....
https://markskituning.com/pressure-t...d-boost-leaks/

 

^^^ What that guy said!!! Listen to him! Also, did you get any codes? I have made my share of many mistakes along the way, but if there is one thing I have learned about these cars, its how boost leaks cause all kinds of drama and are relatively easy to find with the right test kit.

 

You definitely have a leak follow marks instructions and buy a durametric instead of a maf

 

+1!!